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Vats key info

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Old Mar 30, 2026 | 09:54 PM
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Default Vats key info

Vats key checks 4 times at 5.71 ohms. The chart numbers arent close, anyone know which # blank to order. Thanks.
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Old Mar 30, 2026 | 11:12 PM
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I would try a different meter. That doesn't sound right. Also, most locksmiths have a tool that tells them the correct key #.
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Old Yesterday | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jv9999
I would try a different meter. That doesn't sound right. Also, most locksmiths have a tool that tells them the correct key #.
Go local locksmith, they even might have the key in stock, you never know!

When you buy key, buy extra!
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Old Yesterday | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by merc49
Vats key checks 4 times at 5.71 ohms. The chart numbers arent close, anyone know which # blank to order. Thanks.
Appears you are not reading your meter correctly. More than likely it is 5.71K ohms which is the lower value for key #12.
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Old Yesterday | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by arbee
Appears you are not reading your meter correctly. More than likely it is 5.71K ohms which is the lower value for key #12.
OP - Assuming your car cranks and runs!

I pretty much agree but your 5.71 is below what's considered 'low' threshold. A quick check for you might be to drive by either a GM dealer that still has a VATS Interrogator and have them check using theirs or a local locksmith who might still have and use a similar tool. If coincidentally a GM dealer checks and stocks the key don't do the buy unless ridiculously discounted. Very few dealers inventory single edge VATS blanks. If the local checks and says 12 a buy from him and it results in a no start, then it's on him I believe.

I have a GM VATS Interrogator, and I have actually had 1 key that it didn't respond to. His car cranked and ran using his key, but he wanted spare. I didn't check using a meter. I sent him to a locksmith. I never heard from him as to whether he did or didn't do this.
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Old Yesterday | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
OP - Assuming your car cranks and runs!

I pretty much agree but your 5.71 is below what's considered 'low' threshold. A quick check for you might be to drive by either a GM dealer that still has a VATS Interrogator and have them check using theirs or a local locksmith who might still have and use a similar tool. If coincidentally a GM dealer checks and stocks the key don't do the buy unless ridiculously discounted. Very few dealers inventory single edge VATS blanks. If the local checks and says 12 a buy from him and it results in a no start, then it's on him I believe.

I have a GM VATS Interrogator, and I have actually had 1 key that it didn't respond to. His car cranked and ran using his key, but he wanted spare. I didn't check using a meter. I sent him to a locksmith. I never heard from him as to whether he did or didn't do this.
It would appear that you are on a mission to discredit anything I have to say. This is the second time now in a week where you have found it necessary to rebut my comments with inaccurate or trolling comments. I have always given you credit for your extensive knowledge here so it behooves me to figure out at what point I have pissed in your soup bowl. As I have stated before, that is your right but it still remains that your ignorant comments are moot. As a precursor, I have been a master electrician for over forty years so please don't try to school me on electrical/electronic knowledge unless you possess the same credentials. Let's delve into your comments a bit.

Firstly, the stated "low end" value from the chart of a key #12 resistor is 5.798K. The OP states that he is reading 5.71.(as per my original post, I am suggesting it is actually 5.71K) Applying simple math, that is a difference of .088. Eighty-eight one thousandth of an ohm! Would you have intelligent people think that GM cut the tolerances to within such a tight parameter? I think not. Temperature variances alone would throw out that assumption.

Secondly, resistors generally have a tolerance of 10% or 20%. However, even if we assume a 1% tolerance(most accurate commonly produced resistor) , at a value of 5.798K that is a tolerance of 57.98 ohms. Do you see the absurdity of your statement? Most will.

Lastly, are you assuming that the OP used a lab-level DVOM to do his measurements? Or is it just as likely he used a free Harbor Freight meter that he received on a promotion day. Do you have any idea what the tolerances of the measuring capabilities of such an instrument are?

As stated, by all means carry on with your mission to dispute my correct statements. However, I will continue to point out your inaccuracies. People can therefore make their own judgements. I am confident that most will see your blustering as not any attempt at helping someone asking for it but rather a mission in self promotion and "dick measuring".

Last edited by arbee; Yesterday at 02:22 PM.
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Old Yesterday | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by arbee
I
As stated, by all means carry on with your mission to dispute my correct statements. However, I will continue to point out your inaccuracies. People can therefore make their own judgements.
Do whatever it is that you feel you must do!
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Old Yesterday | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Do whatever it is that you feel you must do!
Thank you for your permission.
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Old Yesterday | 06:52 PM
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My intentions was to get some advice, not start a war. I have a fluke meter that I use to troubleshoot car electronics so the quality I'd good. My friend who is an electrician also checked with my meter and his. His showed 5.78 and mine is 5 71. I want to buy a blank key which I'm leaning towards #12 on the chart. Problem is no one near me has the blank, I can order one that is $10 and have it cut at the hardware store. The drawback is I need to cut the key and make sure it starts, if it's the wrong resistance, I'm now the proud owner of a key that won't work. Locksmiths near me think they got a sucker when you walk in. I just need a spare key for the ignition and doors. I misplaced my only key and took me a week to find it. Can't see paying the dealer or locksmith a hundred dollars for something a hardware store can do for $10. Thanks anyway. Side note, I found it the last place I put it, 😄 😆 😅
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Old Yesterday | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by merc49
My intentions was to get some advice, not start a war. I have a fluke meter that I use to troubleshoot car electronics so the quality I'd good. My friend who is an electrician also checked with my meter and his. His showed 5.78 and mine is 5 71. I want to buy a blank key which I'm leaning towards #12 on the chart. Problem is no one near me has the blank, I can order one that is $10 and have it cut at the hardware store. The drawback is I need to cut the key and make sure it starts, if it's the wrong resistance, I'm now the proud owner of a key that won't work. Locksmiths near me think they got a sucker when you walk in. I just need a spare key for the ignition and doors. I misplaced my only key and took me a week to find it. Can't see paying the dealer or locksmith a hundred dollars for something a hardware store can do for $10. Thanks anyway. Side note, I found it the last place I put it, 😄 😆 😅
My intention was to only offer up a 'solution'. It seems you're good now so ......... It's always the 'the last place you left it and that's of course the last place you looked'! You didn't start a 'war' but a typical conversation most seem to have with Arbee. I've grown to just look past him, and it seems others do also.

You might want to gather 'spares'!!!!!!!




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Old Yesterday | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
My intention was to only offer up a 'solution'. It seems you're good now so ......... It's always the 'the last place you left it and that's of course the last place you looked'! You didn't start a 'war' but a typical conversation most seem to have with Arbee. I've grown to just look past him, and it seems others do also.

You might want to gather 'spares'!!!!!!!
Good to know! Keep your word.
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Old Yesterday | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
My intention was to only offer up a 'solution'. It seems you're good now so ......... It's always the 'the last place you left it and that's of course the last place you looked'! You didn't start a 'war' but a typical conversation most seem to have with Arbee. I've grown to just look past him, and it seems others do also.

You might want to gather 'spares'!!!!!!!
that's the reason I'm looking for the right number key to order so i have a set of spares.
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Old Yesterday | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by merc49
that's the reason I'm looking for the right number key to order so i have a set of spares.
A 594212 is a Strattec OEM quality 'padded' VATS blank for #12 if you're confident of the code. There're very good deals around and some offer a package of IGN & Secondary very inexpensively. I'd maybe shop local just looking for that blank number. The keyway should be stamped on your secondary/door key. If the key blank is loose you want to confirm with your meter OR maybe even if in a sealed package. You should be able to do very close to eBay deals close to you. 15$ for the pair sounds reasonable. Better than that for a pair doubtful.

*** Post the keyway letter of your door key and I'll give you 'padded/molded' part number.

*** Depending on the model number of your Fluke it could likely be calibrated. Various models there are instructions out there. I've never calibrated my 87 III but in the manual I'm quite sure it's mentioned. Your friends Fluke showed different than yours.

Last edited by WVZR-1; Yesterday at 09:59 PM.
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Old Yesterday | 10:56 PM
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When I bought my 91 there was only one set of keys. At the time I was in a profession that used used locksmiths on occasion. One of those locksmiths actually still had a reader and stock of keys in some of the resistances. Luckily the chip in my key was one they still had a few blanks on. I forget how much I paid for the two additional ignition keys I had them cut, but felt much better having the backup keys. Just look at the locksmiths in your area and start making calls.
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