When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Rather than add to that post, I created this new one.
I removed the 25 year old 2 wire pertronix unit and installed a new 1 wire Lectric Limited breaker less ignition. When I go to start the engine, it fires but immediately shuts down. I can turn the key again and it fires but always immediately shuts down. Has anyone run into this with the LL breaker less ignition? Am I missing something?
Rather than add to that post, I created this new one.
I removed the 25 year old 2 wire pertronix unit and installed a new 1 wire Lectric Limited breaker less ignition. When I go to start the engine, it fires but immediately shuts down. I can turn the key again and it fires but always immediately shuts down. Has anyone run into this with the LL breaker less ignition? Am I missing something?
sounds like your ballast resistor is not wired correctly in the circuit. If that's the issue, if you hold the key to start, it will continue to run until you release the key.
Rather than add to that post, I created this new one.
I removed the 25 year old 2 wire pertronix unit and installed a new 1 wire Lectric Limited breaker less ignition. When I go to start the engine, it fires but immediately shuts down. I can turn the key again and it fires but always immediately shuts down. Has anyone run into this with the LL breaker less ignition? Am I missing something?
Mark,
It would be a good idea to put this information and the results in your original thread. This way, in the future, when someone else experiences the same issue they can see the results of your situation. Always a good idea to put a "bow" on any thread
Mark,
It would be a good idea to put this information and the results in your original thread. This way, in the future, when someone else experiences the same issue they can see the results of your situation. Always a good idea to put a "bow" on any thread
Once I get it figured out, I’ll add the resolution to the original thread🍻
sounds like your ballast resistor is not wired correctly in the circuit. If that's the issue, if you hold the key to start, it will continue to run until you release the key.
Here is a diagram of how the original 2 wire Pertronix was wired and how the 1 wire Lectric Limited is currently wired.
This sounds like the classic situation where the wire from the solenoid to the coil is supplying power to the coil while cranking, but the wire from the ballast resistor is not supplying voltage when the key is in the run position. Nothing to do with the points/points replacement, though. I suggest you check for voltage from the ballast to the coil when the key is in "run."
Neither of those two diagrams is correct. The - post of the coil should be connected to the points or electronic breakerless module. The + side of the coil should be fed from the load side (think of it as the "output") of the ballast resistor when the engine is running, and it should be fed from the R terminal on the starter solenoid while the starter is cranking the engine. Current through the coil primary should pass through the ballast resistor when running, and should be bypassing the resistor to furnish full system voltage to the coil for a hotter spark when the starter is engaged and attempting to start the engine.
As noted upthread, it sounds as though you are getting current to the coil while the starter is engaged, but not when it should be supplied through the ballast.
Although I do question the 12vdc direct to an original coil. But, that is what they show.
With no ballast, I would expect that a coil with higher primary resistance would be specified. And, that would seem to lead to hard-starting issues. Possibly this is an over-simplified advertising sketch, and not their actual installation instructions?
You should be using the ballast resistor with the SE Breakerless system. It's in the instructions. I have been running one for many years. There should be two wires on the positive of the coil, one from the starter solenoid and one from the side of the ballast NOT connected to the 12v from the key, so that when you release the key, that source takes over to supply the coil the reduced voltage as in the instructions.
Voltage: The system operates on 12V but requires the original ballast resistor to prevent damage.
Coil Compatibility: Works with stock coils (1.2–1.8 ohms).
Condenser: The original condenser should be removed, but it can be left connected to the coil (+) terminal as a noise filter if desired (but not on the (-) terminal).
Performance: Features active dwell control for improved spark and automatic shut-off to prevent coil damage if the ignition is left on
Neither of those two diagrams is correct. The - post of the coil should be connected to the points or electronic breakerless module. The + side of the coil should be fed from the load side (think of it as the "output") of the ballast resistor when the engine is running, and it should be fed from the R terminal on the starter solenoid while the starter is cranking the engine. Current through the coil primary should pass through the ballast resistor when running, and should be bypassing the resistor to furnish full system voltage to the coil for a hotter spark when the starter is engaged and attempting to start the engine.
As noted upthread, it sounds as though you are getting current to the coil while the starter is engaged, but not when it should be supplied through the ballast.
Live well,
SJW
The diagram for the Pertronix worked for 25 years and is now irrelevant, however the one for the LL one I screwed up royally. Reading all the posts AND re-reading the instructions, this is what I’ve come up with. Is it correct or am I still screwing up something. As you can probably tell, electrical is NOT my strong suit.
The diagram for the Pertronix worked for 25 years and is now irrelevant, however the one for the LL one I screwed up royally. Reading all the posts AND re-reading the instructions, this is what I’ve come up with. Is it correct or am I still screwing up something. As you can probably tell, electrical is NOT my strong suit.
yes, correct. But you still have that additional wire that comes up from the starter that connects to the positive post also. It's only used when the key is in the start position.
yes, correct. But you still have that additional wire that comes up from the starter that connects to the positive post also. It's only used when the key is in the start position.
Do you know why that wasn’t part of the 2 wire pertronix?
Do you know why that wasn’t part of the 2 wire pertronix?
it didn't use a ballast resistor, it had a full 12 V on it in start and run. The wire from the solenoid bypasses the ballast resistor when in the start position giving the coil a full 12 V. You must have that wire or it wouldn't have started in the first place and then died when you released the key after you changed to the SE system. The wire from the starter could also be connected to the output of the ballast resister. It's the same electrical point as the positive on the coil.
I hooked up the new Lectric Limited Breakerless SE using this setup and it runs great. Had to re-time it and re-set the idle, but it now runs and drives great. Appreciate all the help🍻
Sweet car, Mark. Now that it's running as it should, go drive it!
Live well,
SJW
Got a couple more minor things to take care of, but it will be going up for sale soon. I’ve had it for 26 years and it’s time to let someone else enjoy it🍻
66 L-79 Shutdown follow-up
