I've got the ignition switch out of the 65 and I'm preparing to install new dash and engine bay wiring harnesses. Before I pulled the switch I was having electrical problems and I'd like to test it. I didn't find any recent posts on testing the switch - so how do I test it?
Also - the picture below shows a small brass pin that came out when I took the switch out. Does anyone know what it is?
Thanks - Gary

 

On the back of the switch it is marked IGN, BATT, SOL, ACC, etc.
You can apply 12vdc to the BATT terminal and then check each position of the switch with a 12vdc test light or
Use a multimeter on the OHMs scale. Attach the red lead to the BATT terminal and measure the resistance on each lug by connecting the black lead to the applicable lug for each position of the switch. Then test all of the lugs when the key is in each position to assure you do not have a short inside the switch.
You have to have the key in the ignition to turn it to each position.
Did the pin come out when you removed the tumbler (key part of the switch)? A ruler and the diameter of the pin may be helpful. It could be part of the tumbler, but it has an unusual shape.
What are your electrical problems?
Ron

066 ignition switch

 

Thanks Ron - yes the brass pin came out after I removed the tumbler and was in the switch after the tumbler came out. It's about .085" OD
Here's a better picture.
Gary

 

There is a pin in the switch housing which you depress to remove the tumbler. The pin is about 1/16" diameter, but I have never removed one to measure the length.
Is that pin missing in your switch

Brass pin in switch housing.
housing??

 

Is the connector for the switch or any of the wires melted or discolored? You may want to trace any wire which shows discoloration.

 

Measuring resistance on an ignition switch is only helpful for shorts and opens, but it does not speak to contact performance.......which a voltage drop test is best.

 

Thanks! That's it, and it fits in the hole nicely. It doesn't want to stay in the hole, so I added a dab of grease and it seems fine.

 

Yes, the ignition wire in the ignition switch connector looks a bit melted. I'm going to wait to pull the instrument cluster until I get the new dash and engine harnesses. I'll try to get a good look at everything then.

 

Delete

 

There should be a spring behind the pin to push it out. There appears to be an indentation in the inside of the switch that held the pin in, but I have never taken one apart.
The photos that I posted are a 660 switch for the 65. As smacota1 stated, check the numbers on your switch. If it was replaced before, the plastic connectors are different as well as the lugs on the switch. There are only 3 numbers on the switch. I have the 660 and 694 and 697 switch on the bench.
You want to make sure which you have and test it. If the switch is shorted internally, you may burn up a new harness if you don't test it first Also, check the wire to the ballast resistor, if it is burned, you may have a short in the ignition system devices, or if you run the chrome cover, it may have cut the wires to the coil or distributor.
As lucky131969 stated, a voltage drop test is best. You hook the known voltage to the BATT terminal and test each terminal for each key position to see if there is a difference in the voltage reading in and out. You have to have a VOM multimeter for that test. If you have a VOM meter, you might want to do an OHMs test first for information as it will show a short or open.
The switches are not hard to disassemble and inspect the contacts, I have done quite a few. I don't think you will find parts to repair it if the contacts are beyond burnishing.
Bitter / Sweet, you are close to solving your problem, but don't get in a hurry and skip a step.

 

Gary,
This video may be of help when you go to install your new dash harness light bulb sockets. You might consider installing the dash harness to the instrument cluster and then feed the harness into the dash...much easier and how they did it at the factory. Enjoy the experience

 

I can't find any numbers on my ignition switch, and it looks different than the pictures Ron posted. I'm wondering if it has been replaced at some point.

 

It does indeed appear to be an aftermarket replacement for the Original 660 switch as it does not have the loops for securing the connector nor the light holder cast with the switch.
Now the question is whether the connector is original to the 65 as this may be a problem when you get a new harness, if that is your plan.
I am trying to think of a way to accurately compare the terminal / lug placement on the back of your switch to that of the 660 switch I have.
Due to the crimp around the contact board on your switch, it would be very difficult to disassemble and repair. Aftermarket switches are very cheap, but sometimes the tumbler won't work with a new switch as well as the terminals on the board. IF you are ordering a new ignition wiring harness, you may want to order a new switch with tumbler and keys from the harness supplier to fit. You can have the tumbler rekeyed to match the existing key if you chose.
Ron

 

Thanks Ron - I checked Lectric Limited's catalog for my car and I don't see that they offer an ignition switch. Our 65 was built in January of 65. I think I'd like to source a new one. Would that ignition switch full part number be 1116660?

 

I found this NOS switch online:

Is this the correct switch for our 65?

 

I believe it is an original switch for your 65, however, I am not an NCRS expert as some are and could advise you better. I am just going from prior threads on 65 switches. You might want to do a GOOGLE search here on the forum to find prior threads which give you some more information.
I looked at the Lectric Limited site (WOW $$$$) and I could not find a separate harness for just the ignition switch to engine bay, but I am not familiar with their site. You may wish to ask them if the connector for the switch is compatible with the original 660 switch prior to ordering either the switch or harness. They may also give you advice on which switches fit their harness.
Looking on Ebay, the original 660 switches are stupid money and still may not fit if the connector on the Lectricl Limited harness isn't clocked the same.

 

Yes that is an original OEM switch. 1116660 is the correct part #.

 

Gary,
Don't know if this is the same one you found earlier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26724376825...Bk9SR_DEtszFZw

 

Thanks Leif - Yes, that's the one I copied the picture of. I'll grab it.
I called Lectric Limited and they said they don't provide a switch for the harness, but to use an original or aftermarket switch.
Gary

 

These cars are almost as expensive as wives.