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when I talked to BTR and decided on their Truck Norris cam they assured me I would be fine with stock push rods .Heres the Truck Norris specs : 212/22X, .553/.553, 107 LSA
since Im still on stock lifters and according to BTR stock length push rods will work. at this point whats another $100 lol. my stock push rods are fine, i rolled across some tempered glass and both ends looked good. If I go with some aftermarket push rods, i know it would be good practice to measure the length. I should be fine with stock length. what would yall do?
The factory rods are designed as the cheapest rods minimally suitable for the lift and springs of the factory cam.
The Truck Norris cam has higher lift (Or why bother?) and you are likely changing the springs (You are, aren't you?). The factory pushrods may work, if you define not break as work, but they will flex more, thus altering the actual valve motion the cam is designed for.
The factory pushrods were not all that correct for length to begin with.
The factory rods are designed as the cheapest rods minimally suitable for the lift and springs of the factory cam.
The Truck Norris cam has higher lift (Or why bother?) and you are likely changing the springs (You are, aren't you?). The factory pushrods may work, if you define not break as work, but they will flex more, thus altering the actual valve motion the cam is designed for.
The factory pushrods were not all that correct for length to begin with.
yes upgraded springs, stiffer beehive . i think ill just go a head and order a push rod length checker
Ok, good choices. Plenty of YouTube videos to walk you through the process.
Good luck and enjoy!
watchin a lot of videos, i think i have the process down. insert old push rod on the intake side of cyclinder one. rotate motor until push rod is at the base of the lobe (low side). insert push rod length checker, hand tight rocker arm and check for zero lash. from the info ive seen .050 lifter preload should be fine for stock lifters?
I run that same basic cam in my Tahoe with LS6 springs. 212/218 .550/.550 112. I have stock push rods, and they have almost 300k on them. I put the cam in around 126k
The factory pushrods may work, if you define not break as work, but they will flex more, thus altering the actual valve motion the cam is designed for.
Can you direct me to that testing? Sounds like an interesting study.
Last edited by lucky131969; May 19, 2026 at 07:10 PM.
Stock length and stock pushrods are not necessarily equal. Hardened pushrods with stock length and diameter would be beneficial. Hardened pushrods are to stabilize valvetrain with upgraded cams and higher rpm. Although factory rod bolts might give out before pushrod flex cause damage.