Body Drop Steps & Hints Please
Thread Starter
Old Fart Pilot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 963
From: Spokane, WA
Body Drop Steps & Hints Please
It's been many years since I took the body of my 71 coupe off the frame. Right now the body is up on a tall body dolly so I can more easily work on stuff underneath and strip paint from lower parts of it. I'm getting close to putting the body back on a low dolly to better strip paint on upper sections. Then I can finally drop it back onto the chassis.
I'm looking for suggestions on what I should ensure is done before it goes back on the chassis. The chassis has been restored along with the engine, drivetrain and fuel tank and all those have been remounted. I'll look at working the body lift checklist in reverse, but I want to ensure that stuff that is easier accomplished while access is open is done before the drop.
I'm thinking of stuff like the rear antenna mount and plate, rear wiring harness, tunnel insulation, splash shields etc, etc.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
I'm looking for suggestions on what I should ensure is done before it goes back on the chassis. The chassis has been restored along with the engine, drivetrain and fuel tank and all those have been remounted. I'll look at working the body lift checklist in reverse, but I want to ensure that stuff that is easier accomplished while access is open is done before the drop.
I'm thinking of stuff like the rear antenna mount and plate, rear wiring harness, tunnel insulation, splash shields etc, etc.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,214
Likes: 4,301
From: Westminster Maryland
Hello,
BIG DAY!!!!
There are only a few things that REALLY, REALLY need to be done:
The transmission tunnel foil heat shield needs to be in place clipped to the underbody.
The foam heat collar needs to placed on the bell housing right behind the rear of the engine.
The cream colored foam heat blocks need to be in place on each frame rail at body mount #2.
It's not critical but better to have the body mount shims taped in place at each mount location. (If you counted them when the body came off.)
Fuel and brake lines that run on TOP of the frame rails.
Others?
Regards....
BIG DAY!!!!
There are only a few things that REALLY, REALLY need to be done:
The transmission tunnel foil heat shield needs to be in place clipped to the underbody.
The foam heat collar needs to placed on the bell housing right behind the rear of the engine.
The cream colored foam heat blocks need to be in place on each frame rail at body mount #2.
It's not critical but better to have the body mount shims taped in place at each mount location. (If you counted them when the body came off.)
Fuel and brake lines that run on TOP of the frame rails.
Others?
Regards....
Last edited by Alan 71; May 22, 2026 at 09:29 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,526
Likes: 1,960
From: Temple Terrace Florida
I would also make sure that the heater core is in great shape. Easy to repair/replace now. I would also make sure that the throttle linkage coming off the body is secure. Changing it out later is a miserable job. Good luck. Jerry
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,598
Likes: 837
From: PA
Hello,
BIG DAY!!!!
There are only a few things that REALLY, REALLY need to be done:
The transmission tunnel foil heat shield needs to be in place clipped to the underbody.
The foam heat collar needs to placed on the bell housing right behind the rear of the engine.
The cream colored foam heat blocks need to be in place on each frame rail at body mount #2.
It's not critical but better to have the body mount shims taped in place at each mount location. (If you counted them when the body came off.)
Fuel and brake lines that run on TOP of the frame rails.
Others?
BIG DAY!!!!
There are only a few things that REALLY, REALLY need to be done:
The transmission tunnel foil heat shield needs to be in place clipped to the underbody.
The foam heat collar needs to placed on the bell housing right behind the rear of the engine.
The cream colored foam heat blocks need to be in place on each frame rail at body mount #2.
It's not critical but better to have the body mount shims taped in place at each mount location. (If you counted them when the body came off.)
Fuel and brake lines that run on TOP of the frame rails.
Others?
I would also suggest having all transmission cables (interlock cable specifically), linkages, and adjustments made prior to body drop. I installed the rear light harness, antenna cable, and antenna mount/base as well… Just easier to do with the body off. I installed the forward harness/fuse box, again, easier to install correctly with the body off.
I would suggest using a two post lift for the body drop as well as having the chassis on dollies/skates… Just makes it easier to make adjustments as the body is brought down.
Make sure that all of your body mount nuts have been tapped and if you use tape to secure the shims, make sure that you punch a hole through it to allow the bolt to pass through.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Last edited by Rowdy Rat; May 22, 2026 at 06:09 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,191
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Remembering back. Humm.
Make sure the shifter is off, put it on later. Easier to drop that way.
Have 2 5/8 inch dowels ready to put threw the alignment holes.
Make sure the shifter is off, put it on later. Easier to drop that way.
Have 2 5/8 inch dowels ready to put threw the alignment holes.
