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I have an 82 that has been "asleep" for 37 years and before I try and turn the engine over (by hand or with the starter), I'd like to remove the distributor and manually drive the oil pump to prime the engine. My question is, does anyone know what years and what engine distributor shafts are the same as the 82? I have several distributors that I can use as donors for the shaft but want to make sure I have one that will work before I pull the 82 distributor. Some of the ones I have are a 1956 265ci, 1961 283ci, 1971 305ci and a 1974 350ci. I assume the 305 or 350 are the same but has anyone else done this before? I know I could buy a Chinese tool from Amazon to do this but I prefer to use good ole American Made iron so I don't end up with metal shavings in the engine. All help and comments are appreciated.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Any of those distributors will do the job, but I would use the 71 or 74, and keep the old distributors in case someone is doing a restoration and wants an old distributor to use in their old car.
Another thing you can do is remove all the spark plugs and put a small squirt of marvel mystery oil in each hole. No spark plus will allow you to turn the engine over easier, and the oil helps loosen any piston rings that may be stuck.
When I was priming my new Blueprint engine for my 82 I found that the "priming tool" didn't seal off well enough and the pressure was lower than when I used my old distributor with the gear off and the top cut off.
This is the priming tool I made from the old distributor.
Thank you JThornton. That's exactly what I was planning to do. I was going to start another thread and ask this question but since I have you on the line, I'll just ask. Since the engine has 9k miles on it, I'm assuming there is no need for me to use a "break-in" oil like you needed for your blueprint engine. I was thinking of starting it up with a 0W-20 oil then after warmup, draining it and putting a 10W-30 oil in. Or should I just go straight to the 10W-30? Any thoughts on that?
I’m no expert but I would think 10w-30 would be just fine.
After 37 years you should expect some weeping of the gaskets or seals so I would suggest using a semi synthetic oil and one made for high mileage engines.
I say the high mileage oils because they contain additives to condition old seals and help prevent weeping and leakage.
My Jeep has 175,000 miles on its straight six, I use Valvoline semi synthetic high mileage oil and nothing weeps or leaks.
Mobil1 also makes a couple good high mileage blends as well
Sounds good! Going straight to 10W-30 will save me a few dollars as well. I too have several 200k+ mileage vehicles and do use the High Mileage Full Synthetic Oils. Usually Castrol or Mobil1.
Thank you JThornton. That's exactly what I was planning to do. I was going to start another thread and ask this question but since I have you on the line, I'll just ask. Since the engine has 9k miles on it, I'm assuming there is no need for me to use a "break-in" oil like you needed for your blueprint engine. I was thinking of starting it up with a 0W-20 oil then after warmup, draining it and putting a 10W-30 oil in. Or should I just go straight to the 10W-30? Any thoughts on that?
The 82 has flat tappet cam so make sure you use an oil that has at least 1000 ppm ZDDP. See the thread in the sticky above for tons of info on that. I would use the recommended 10-30 oil.
When I primed the new engine I ran the oil pump with the adapter and after I got good pressure and while the pump was running I turned it over by hand a few times with the spark plugs out.
Yes, it has the original Crossfire. I am working on the fuel system now and I started at the tank end. I have another post in the General Forum which has a picture of the sending unit/pump that I pulled out. Quite a mess and pretty much unrepairable. I will work my way up to the TBs and injectors in the next few days.
Get it primed. Turn crank 90 degrees. Keep priming. Repeat. Do this for 720 degrees of crank rotation to ensure that every lifter and pushrod and rocker arm gets oil.
Thank you JThornton. That's exactly what I was planning to do. I was going to start another thread and ask this question but since I have you on the line, I'll just ask. Since the engine has 9k miles on it, I'm assuming there is no need for me to use a "break-in" oil like you needed for your blueprint engine. I was thinking of starting it up with a 0W-20 oil then after warmup, draining it and putting a 10W-30 oil in. Or should I just go straight to the 10W-30? Any thoughts on that?
IIRC
JT's BPE motor came OE with hydraulic roller lifters.
So, With those roller lifters + its roller cam, I suggest there was no real requirement (practical or otherwise) to use any "break-in" oil. It certainly didn't hurt; but not necessary. One exception might be to satisfy some overblown warranty requirement.
However, if, IF that motor had new Flat Tappet lifters in it, THAT would have required "break-in oil" containing higher concentrations of Zinc and Phophorus.
Everything in moderation.
Something no one has mentioned is to remove the valve covers and pour a quart of oil over all of the rockers, push rods, and springs. Make sure it flows down the push rods to the top of the lifters. I think this provides instant lubrication of the top end rather than waiting for oil to work its way through the various passages to flood these areas.
If you are going to go thru the trouble of priming, I would do it with the valve covers off.
You want to see oil flow out of every pushrod, and not have a dry / plugged up one.
It just oozes out, it won't spray!
Any of those distributors will do the job, but I would use the 71 or 74, and keep the old distributors in case someone is doing a restoration and wants an old distributor to use in their old car.
Originally Posted by jthornton
When I was priming my new Blueprint engine for my 82 I found that the "priming tool" didn't seal off well enough and the pressure was lower than when I used my old distributor with the gear off and the top cut off.
This is the priming tool I made from the old distributor.
JT
Originally Posted by OldCarBum
I’m no expert but I would think 10w-30 would be just fine.
After 37 years you should expect some weeping of the gaskets or seals so I would suggest using a semi synthetic oil and one made for high mileage engines.
I say the high mileage oils because they contain additives to condition old seals and help prevent weeping and leakage.
My Jeep has 175,000 miles on its straight six, I use Valvoline semi synthetic high mileage oil and nothing weeps or leaks.
Mobil1 also makes a couple good high mileage blends as well
Originally Posted by jthornton
When I primed the new engine I ran the oil pump with the adapter and after I got good pressure and while the pump was running I turned it over by hand a few times with the spark plugs out.
Does it still have the original CrossFire?
JT
good advice that looks to have all the bases covered.
Engine Oil Prime after 37 Years Sleeping
good advice that looks to have all the bases covered.