hello I’m a new corvette owner and I’ve read on many corvette forums of mixed opinions about putting the a4 c5 into lower gears like 2 or 3 when cursing around the city because it has more torque and sounds nice. I heard that I can damage my transmission and cause unnecessary heat and wear to the transmission. Is it safe to cruise around on lower gears like 2-3 at 4500rpm? I am a spirted driver but I don’t abuse the car

 

I’m the original owner of my c5, A4 trans, 93,000 miles on it. I abuse the crap out of mine. I road course it like twice a year, and you have to ride 2nd gear coming out of the corners otherwise there’s no torque. If you do an HPDE event and get 2 hours of drive time, that’s 2 hours worth manually shifting constantly from 2-3, 3-2, then 3-2, and 2-3, over and over and over again. My transmission is still fine, I did replace the shifter cable bushing at the shifter end last year. I caught it just before it completely failed. I did install a trans cooler about 12 years ago, and 4 years ago did 3.73 gears and 3200 stall. Knock on 🪵, everything is still fine. If transmission goes kaboom, I’m ready for an RPM trans.

So, go out there and beat the crap out of it, worst thing that could happen is something brakes, at least you had fun doing it, then replace it with better parts.

 

Thanks for the reassurance. Yeah I’ll continue driving the way I do. I don’t drive too hard so I don’t have to worry about the transmission heating up too much but eventually I’d like to upgrade a transmission cooler.

 

What he said.

I don't autocross mine so I pretty much keep it in D. However, I am producing 670 HP to the rear wheels (per my last dyno) after installing a cam and supercharged LS3, LT headers and a 3.42 rear differential. I don't expect the stock tranny to last forever with this setup so I've already talked with the guys at RPM for a Level VII trans + 3200 stall + cooler when the time comes. In the meantime, just watch the temps and enjoy the car!

 

IMO, YankSS converters are pretty reliable, especially the 3200, forum members have had those converters for 10+years, and the 3200 doesn’t whine a lot. I don’t think the SS series are for blower cars though. Sounds like you have a nice setup. Be careful out there.

 

Shift cable bushings are the weak link for manual shifting, and the stock shifter is not very positive in selecting the gears.
Running constantly at 4500 in 2nd or 3rd will definitely create lots of extra heat, add a high stall and lower rear gears will just compound that, so a large trans cooler is essential.

 

Yep. The 3200 was my original choice before I added the SC and should probably look at the Yank SC Series (2,800 RPM Stall) which are supposed to help with the low end hit.

A double Yep. The less stress I can place on those two GM nylon bushings, the better. I'm already on my second cable.

 

I definitely recommend a trans cooler for everyone with an A4. Now I have the 3.73 gears.

Winter driving, trans only gets to about 130 degrees

Summer driving, 90+ degrees, trans doesn’t go over 190

Road course, I think I’ve seen over 210 once, oil temp is the problem on the road course. Overfill your oil on a road course, that seems to help a little.

 

Where did you mount your trans cooler? Since I have the A&A kit, I'm thinking behind the front bumper and then performing the license plate mod for dedicated airflow.

 

SC 2002 coupe, 650 to the wheels, no track work, just drag racing occasionally. I have to run a front plate in my state, so I mounted my trans cooler in front of the A/C condenser on the drivers side. I plumbed it into my Dewitt's radiator. I am currently running an RPM Level 5 trans with a 3.42SP rear. I didn't have any issues with the stock trans, but it felt lazy when I started adding power to the car, so I decided to upgrade it. Added a 2800 stall converter with the RPM trans. Runs like a scolded dawg! Hooks up good off the line and is nice and mellow in traffic or when just cruising. On the strip I do burnouts in 1st, stage and launch in 3rd. Normal driving, just put it in D and go-

Since I added the cooler, I never see higher than 190 degrees trans temps. Before I added the cooler, it could get up to 215 especially in stop and go traffic. THis is a drag and drive car, so I need it to behave in traffic and on longer cruises. When I was discussing my plans with RPM before I purchased the trans, they told me they like to see the trans run at ~190 when at full op temp. I installed a Hayden trans cooler and with the Dewitt's radiator fans, when they kick on, I can feel the air being pulled across the trans cooler. One key thing, make sure you have good clean trans fluid and it is at proper level so you know that is good. Adding a trans cooler is pretty easy and the Hayden's are less than a 100 bucks. Just plumb it into the trans fluid return line from your radiator. I almost went with a Derale with it's own dedicated fan, but the install would have been more entailed and the Hayden worked, so I am happy.

 

Thanks. Great information. When the time comes, I will probably add a cut-down Dewitt's rad as I had the non cut down version when I was N/A and it worked great. However, contrary to what I was told, it did not fit when I added the A&A SC so I had to cut up the stock radiator. I'm curious if I can fit a similar trans cooler in front of the AC condenser since I have the A&A kit and intercooler?

 

If you have an issue often iot is 3rd gear in this transmission and or the rubber couplers that crack with age.

Neither are wide spread issues but they are points of failure if it happens.

Keep in mind this transmission is the same as the others just used in the back of the car. It has been in millions of trucks and few fail.

The Shift cable bushings are your greatest worry. They just go with age.

 

Agreed. Learned the hard way after buying, and driving back. Late at night, at a gas station in a different state. After that experience, I've been carrying the tools, and extra bushings to at least be able to access the cable at the shifter. For the rear bushing, I can't get my hand through the (aftermarket) exhaust, so for now, the OEM bushing is in the rear, and considering that I need to install a 3,200 stall/trans cooler/billet servo, etc., While it's down, I'm seriously considering changing the cable itself, and new bushings. With a lowered C5, towing is interesting, so I do recommend carrying spare bushings, and a bag of tools - and a headlamp in case it's dark - in the back to at least access the cable bushing at shifter. I've heard that some can reach their arm up around the exhaust to reach the rear bushing, but maybe they've got stock exhaust, not sure.

 

I haven't dived in on this, but there has to be a way to get rid of the stock cable and bushings, replacing them with something like a B&M cable and metal connectors.
Ultimately, what I would really like is to make an aftermarket shifter fit in my car.

 

You've nailed a grand slam with that one! There's nothing like flying to pick up a car, drive through the night after paying for it, but when shifting it out of park at a gas station, kaput... (off Interstate, wasn't in the best part or town, but got there at around 11pm, and was there until 3am awaiting tow.) That cheap bushing really had quite the reverberating effect. If something is available, PLEASE let me know. I'm not finding a solution thus far, besides carrying bushings, and tools. Thanks!

 

OK, would this B&M kit fix the issue? The stock cable rarely breaks, unless you really do some hard shifts under pressure. Does this kit replace, reinforce, or neutralize the nylon grommets in the event they fail?

 

No, that kit alone won't fix it because the stock cable doesn't have a screw-on end like the B&M cable does, so that part that goes on the end of the cable won't connect to the stock cable.
You would have to use the B&M cable and then would have to adapt that to the shifter on the other end.
Or, you would just need to replace the shifter assembly completely, which would come with the cable and that kit you have pictured above.
But, then you have to make all that new shifter fit in the car.
No simple fix.

 

Ltngdrvr, I'm realizing the same. I saved this after the bushing incident, and am considering having this modification done when the 3,200 stall and differential are swapped this Summer. Tell me if you think this could work:

======================================== ========================================
C5 CORVETTE AUTOMATIC SHIFTER CABLE "COTTER PIN & WASHER" MODIFICATION
======================================== ========================================

This guide outlines the permanent "bulletproof" mechanical modification to
prevent the factory automatic shifter cable from ever falling off the linkage
pin again, even if the internal plastic bushing completely disintegrates.

REQUIRED PARTS & TOOLS:
* Cordless drill or right-angle drill (for tight spaces under the car)
* 1/16" or 3/32" high-quality cobalt or titanium drill bit
* Center punch and hammer
* Stainless steel cotter pin or R-clip (sized to match your drill bit)
* Stainless steel flat washer (with an inner diameter that fits the pin snug)
* Small can of cutting fluid or 3-in-1 oil (to cool the drill bit)
* Pliers (to bend the cotter pin legs)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1: PREPARING AND CENTERING THE BALL-PIN
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Disconnect the shifter cable eyelet from the factory metal transmission or
shifter assembly ball-pin linkage arm.
2. Clean all grease and road grime off the metal pin using a rag.
3. Take a center punch and tap a small dimple horizontally right into the very
tip/nose of the metal ball-pin, past where the cable sits. This dimple is
critical to keep your drill bit from walking off the rounded surface.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 2: DRILLING THE HOLE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Apply a drop of cutting fluid or oil to the tip of your 1/16" or 3/32" drill
bit to prevent it from overheating.
2. Hold the drill perfectly level and straight. Using steady, moderate pressure
at a low speed, slowly drill a hole horizontally completely through the nose
of the factory metal ball-pin.
3. Take your time, let the bit do the work, and reapply oil if necessary. Once
through, clean away any metal shavings or burrs with a file or sandpaper.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 3: FINAL MECHANICAL ASSEMBLY
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Slide the factory plastic shifter cable eyelet (with whatever bushing material
remains, or a fresh replacement) completely back onto the drilled ball-pin.
2. Slide your stainless steel flat washer over the nose of the pin. The washer
acts as a physical wall, keeping the wider plastic cable loop trapped.
3. Push your stainless steel cotter pin or R-clip straight down through the
newly drilled horizontal hole.
4. Using a pair of pliers, bend the legs of the cotter pin backward around the
pin to lock it permanently into place.

Even if the internal bushing completely dissolves down the road, the mechanical
washer and cotter pin physically trap the cable on the arm, guaranteeing you
will never be stranded in gear again.
======================================== ========================================

 

Been on the road since yesterday afternoon.
I think there would be an easier time by replacing the cable with a B&M, along with their trans bracket and linkage, just then have to fit the shifter end.

 

Great idea. That sounds like a better, stronger fix. B&M likely makes a much better cable as well. Very nice!