hi folks, when I got my latest C5 in October, the existing air dam was in bad shape and parts were missing. I replaced it with a brand new one and everything seemed fine until I noticed the driver side one was sort of hanging down partially. Turns out that the outer 6 inches tour away from the mounting part. I’m fairly sure this is not gonna be fixable. however I was wondering if anyone has run with just the center dam?
Thanks ?

 

I've never tried that, but the center section is definitely the most important since that's what directs air up to the intake.

I'm not sure I'd totally give up on fixing it though. Did the screws rip out of the air dam, or did they rip out of the front fascia? I have ideas for fixing both. (Pics would help though, just to see exactly what you're dealing with)

 

You are talking about the outer dam, not the "radiator scoop" middle part?

If so, the outer screw into metal U-CLIPS/ U-NUTS on the chin closeout panel. If the plastic closeout panel is torn up and the screws don't hold, you need to remove the panel and you can absolutely repair it. You might even be able to do it without removing the big panel and just remove the smaller access panels.

Go to a junk yard and get some scrap black plastic body parts of the same ubiquitous plastic. Cut pieces off as needed and glue on to reinforce/replace broken and missing areas. Glue patches to double the thickness on the INSIDE of the closeout panel to repair cracks and breaks... on the inside because you want the outer to remain flat so your air dam sits flat on the outside. The U-nuts should still slide into place on the double thickness reinforcements. For glue, there are special plastic epoxies available, but for fixing thing like this, I've had good luck with a cheap product named "GOOP" black automotive adhesive. Just scuff up the parts to be mated well before applying the glue. Cheap spring clamps hold it to cure. Then drill the holes you need and slide the u-nuts into place.

These repairs don't have to be perfect because its hidden. They don't have to be extremely strong either, just give backing for the U-NUTS...and bridge any cracks. to fix long cracks you can add sheet metal tapping screws along the crack sides to hold the patch in place more securely. when you put the dam back on the u-nuts will clamp it all together adding strength. Adding washers to the dam screws will help the clamping action.

 

Thanks guys. Unfortunately, the problem has nothing to do with the mounting screws. The actual plastic is torn as you can see in the photos. I need to remove it in order to see if there’s a way that I can fix it. I’m not sure what kind of plastic repair magic I can do with this thing that will stop it from tearing loose. The next time I hit a High spot. I greatly prefer to have these things mounted since I know that these cars are strong bottom feeders.

 

Gotcha. replacements About $125.00 a side on ebay. $115.00 from online suppliers. Mine doesn't have the steel plate under it, which I think are aftermarket add ons, it only has washers. Clearly the steel plate is what caused it to tear. If the plate wasn't there it would flex better and likely only pull screws out, which would be an easy repair.

 

Here’s the culprit. I can think of a few ways to fix it but will it remain fixed when I hit the next speed bump

 

You can "melt Stitch" it together with a soldering iron and melt/add plastic to the inside corner to reinforce it if you're really handy and want to attempt it. Lots of Youtube vids showing plastic repair with a soldering iron.

 

I’ve been interested in trying that for a long time!


QUOTE=Gorn Captain;1609686123]You can "melt Stitch" it together with a soldering iron and melt/add plastic to the inside corner to reinforce it if you're really handy and want to attempt it. Lots of Youtube vids showing plastic repair with a soldering iron.[/QUOTE]
Air dam