I have been sitting here for the past few days, :banghead: trying to reason why I require run flats on my Vette. Run flats seem to offer only one feature that is worthwhile, and that is the ability to drive 50-200 miles with zero-pressure in the tire (mileage varies with tire manufacturer). However, there seems to be overwhelming reasons not to purchase a run flat, and these are:

Not that many places that will dismount or mount a run flat, either due to archaic equipment or non-knowledgeable operators of said equipment. (Called 12 places in and around Nashville and found only few places that would mess with run-flats. Out of those that would, one charged a hefty premium to repair a run flat tire.)

You can carry a 12-volt compressor, a good set of reliable plugs (I do mean reliable), and even a small scissor jack, and plug your own tires on the side of the road, if you should pick up a nail. (Gloves, and a heavy duty paper coverall to wear is optional, but not a bad idea.)

I have not had a normal flat in over 10 years. (Normal defined as a flat caused by a sharp object that penetrates the tire in the tread area. I have had a few destroyed tires caused by giant potholes when living in MI, and I am not sure if a run-flat would have lived through these potholes anyway; sidewalls were split). In addition, please do not mention Murphy’s Law; :nono: I understand the implications of Murphy Law, and fully expect to get at least one flat in a set of non-run flats if I decide to purchase a set. :yesnod:

Good quality new tires are not likely to “blow-out,” but are more likely to pick up a nail and slowly lose pressure. Keeping the air pressure sensors, and checking the air pressure daily (as I already do), would give an indication that you have picked up a nail. At which point you can add some air and go to the nearest tire store, or if in the middle of nowhere, plug your own and continue on your trip. (Those people you see on the side of the road with blowouts usually have driven the tire with low-pressure, in high ambient temperatures, causing the tire to flex beyond design specifications, creating too much heat, and boom goes the tire. The others on the side of the road were driving on tires where you could see the air inside as easily as the air outside…better known as bald tires…and they should not have been allowed to drive on them in the first place.)

If you need to plug your tire in the middle of nowhere, you can plug your own tire, then you will have a better chance of finding a place to dismount a non-run flat and patch/plug the tire, versus having a run flat correctly repaired.

Better ride, no more bouncing over raised expansion joints, better cornering, and no hydroplaning (considering the new Goodyear F1). (Raised expansion joints are really not a problem in TN, but if I travel to MI to visit, they become a large problem.)

Reasons for run flats:
If you pick up a nail, you can continue to drive until you find a place that will work on a non-run flat tire.

Is my reasoning correct, :crazy: or am I full of crap? :bs





[Modified by WhiteC5Vette, 10:28 AM 8/3/2003]

 

I spent half the summer hand wringing over this issue, talked to a lot of people and finally got off the fence a couple weeks ago and put a set of non run flat, Michelin Pilot A/S on my 1998 convertible. I'm a relatively non aggressive driver in the Detroit suburbs, and I used much of the same reasoning as you describe. So far I have not put the tools in the car to deal with the "what if" but I probably will soon.
I was actually about to post my own question about tire pressure, but I think I will do it separate from this note. (the installer was recommending pressure so high that it sets off the high pressure alert on the DIC constantly).

Anyway, I love the ride and road feel so far. Good luck with your decision.

 

you are correct except you forgot to mention that non runflats are cheaper...I might make the change next spring. good luck :seeya

 

I agree with your statements except for a couple of caveats

your whole arguement is based on the Goodyear Runflat that you are familiar with which is the WORST runflat tire available

and your cars suspension was designed to use runflat tires and many people who have made the switch to non-runflats have noticed less cornering ability until suspension mods were performed

 

That is not the conclusion of Car and Driver Magazine, September 2003, "Tech Stuff Suspensions of Disbelief". Page 128

 

Since murphy follows us................on our EDD my wife will have RFs.
At least I know she won't get stranded in dire straights somewhere :eek:
They don't have as good a traction due to their stiffness when compared to the non-runflats, but when I want to have some fun, I swap out the rims with the non-RFs!
The only wrong choice would be to put the cheapest tire on with the least desirable qualities for your application.
I know on our Vette the suspension doesn't care if its either type tire, it works just fine with either :yesnod:
I will be putting on a set of Yokohama AVS Sport runflats on the rear today, suppose to be a good RF tire, time will tell :D

 

Not true as far as the suspension being designed just to use run flats. Car and Driver disputed this, and I talked with someone at GM, and no, the car was designed to use a specific size and rated tire, but not necessarily a run flat. (If this was true, then the only run flat would be Goodyear.) The car was tested using Goodyear EMTs, but that does not mean the suspension was designed to use with only EMTs.
Now, as a person who has made the switch; on dry pavement the steering is more responsive, tracking is better, noise is reduced considerably, and when going over bumps, a bit less jarrring...not much.
Someday, I will get a chance to test these tires on some wet roads. Overall, I am extremely pleased with the purchase of these GD-D3s.

 

:cheers: :cheers: