What to look for in a trailer?
11-25-2010, 11:44 PM
#1
Drifting
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What to look for in a trailer?
Hope to be on the track 1-4 times a year, HPDE/TA from what I'm looking at. I'll be using a 2009 Expedition EL 5.4 to tow it around, so I'm thinking that open trailer would be best. Any help from people who have been in my position? What to look for, what to avoid, must have options?
11-26-2010, 11:00 AM
#2
Safety Car
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Search fnction can provvide many threads covering this topic. Listed below are random thoughts about many of the things required for easy and successful towing to the track.
1) Check the tow capacity of your vehicle against what you will be taking to the track. Trailer, car, spares and tires can get to a vehicles capacity in a hurry. 2) Trailer wise, go an aluminum one such as a Featherlite or Trailex if your budget can handle it. 3) Get a tire rack for the spare set of tires, a tool box for the jack -spares - tools - lubricants etc., 4) 18 foot open trailer is about as small as you can go with a Vette and leave room for the tool box and tire rack. 5) Double 3500LB axles, electric brakes on BOTH axles. 6) Get a drop tail with ramps that store in the trailer bed. 7) Get a removable fender at least on the drivers side as the door on the Vette will not clear and you will have to crawl out the window or build ramps on the trailer to allow for exit. 8) Get the highest capacity tires D or E rated tires you can get and be sure to get a spare tire and wheel. C rated tires are barely adequate regardless of what the sales man says. 9) Make sure that there are at least 4 "D" rings on the bed for your tiedowns.
1) Check the tow capacity of your vehicle against what you will be taking to the track. Trailer, car, spares and tires can get to a vehicles capacity in a hurry. 2) Trailer wise, go an aluminum one such as a Featherlite or Trailex if your budget can handle it. 3) Get a tire rack for the spare set of tires, a tool box for the jack -spares - tools - lubricants etc., 4) 18 foot open trailer is about as small as you can go with a Vette and leave room for the tool box and tire rack. 5) Double 3500LB axles, electric brakes on BOTH axles. 6) Get a drop tail with ramps that store in the trailer bed. 7) Get a removable fender at least on the drivers side as the door on the Vette will not clear and you will have to crawl out the window or build ramps on the trailer to allow for exit. 8) Get the highest capacity tires D or E rated tires you can get and be sure to get a spare tire and wheel. C rated tires are barely adequate regardless of what the sales man says. 9) Make sure that there are at least 4 "D" rings on the bed for your tiedowns.
11-26-2010, 02:44 PM
#5
Safety Car
I have a 1 ton diesel and I still bought an aluminum trailer.
11-26-2010, 04:57 PM
#6
Team Owner
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2009 Expedition EL 5.4 has a tow capacity of what 8500 ?
open deck or max of 24 foot enclosed.
24 foot enclosed with twin 5000 axles
car and trailer will be 72-7500 lbs plus extra junk will get up to 82-8400 lbs in no time
less then 24 foot may not have the axle capacity you need.
I have a 24 foot with twin 3500 axles. Know I am over my weight limit.
Do OK just have to take it easy towing.
open deck or max of 24 foot enclosed.
24 foot enclosed with twin 5000 axles
car and trailer will be 72-7500 lbs plus extra junk will get up to 82-8400 lbs in no time
less then 24 foot may not have the axle capacity you need.
I have a 24 foot with twin 3500 axles. Know I am over my weight limit.
Do OK just have to take it easy towing.
11-29-2010, 01:51 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
I tow with a plain jane 2010 Tahoe 5.3.
20' Open deck steel trailer and car is right around 6K lbs.
I can't wait to try it with the new weight distribution hitch and brake controller.
Trailer has dual 3500lb axles with electric brakes.
Still need to get a tire rack on it. Tieing down tires at the front of the car is starting to bite.
20' Open deck steel trailer and car is right around 6K lbs.
I can't wait to try it with the new weight distribution hitch and brake controller.
Trailer has dual 3500lb axles with electric brakes.
Still need to get a tire rack on it. Tieing down tires at the front of the car is starting to bite.
11-29-2010, 02:24 PM
#8
Team Owner
Just went through the same thing. I ended up buying an used trailer in NC for pennies on the dollar.
You need to figure out what is non negotiable. For me, it was: 24 ft./5K axles/ Air Cond./cabinets/winch/hitch. I have put E-track in it and some other bits in.
You need to figure out what is non negotiable. For me, it was: 24 ft./5K axles/ Air Cond./cabinets/winch/hitch. I have put E-track in it and some other bits in.
11-29-2010, 04:48 PM
#9
Team Owner
Search fnction can provvide many threads covering this topic. Listed below are random thoughts about many of the things required for easy and successful towing to the track.
1) Check the tow capacity of your vehicle against what you will be taking to the track. Trailer, car, spares and tires can get to a vehicles capacity in a hurry. 2) Trailer wise, go an aluminum one such as a Featherlite or Trailex if your budget can handle it. 3) Get a tire rack for the spare set of tires, a tool box for the jack -spares - tools - lubricants etc., 4) 18 foot open trailer is about as small as you can go with a Vette and leave room for the tool box and tire rack. 5) Double 3500LB axles, electric brakes on BOTH axles. 6) Get a drop tail with ramps that store in the trailer bed. 7) Get a removable fender at least on the drivers side as the door on the Vette will not clear and you will have to crawl out the window or build ramps on the trailer to allow for exit. 8) Get the highest capacity tires D or E rated tires you can get and be sure to get a spare tire and wheel. C rated tires are barely adequate regardless of what the sales man says. 9) Make sure that there are at least 4 "D" rings on the bed for your tiedowns.
1) Check the tow capacity of your vehicle against what you will be taking to the track. Trailer, car, spares and tires can get to a vehicles capacity in a hurry. 2) Trailer wise, go an aluminum one such as a Featherlite or Trailex if your budget can handle it. 3) Get a tire rack for the spare set of tires, a tool box for the jack -spares - tools - lubricants etc., 4) 18 foot open trailer is about as small as you can go with a Vette and leave room for the tool box and tire rack. 5) Double 3500LB axles, electric brakes on BOTH axles. 6) Get a drop tail with ramps that store in the trailer bed. 7) Get a removable fender at least on the drivers side as the door on the Vette will not clear and you will have to crawl out the window or build ramps on the trailer to allow for exit. 8) Get the highest capacity tires D or E rated tires you can get and be sure to get a spare tire and wheel. C rated tires are barely adequate regardless of what the sales man says. 9) Make sure that there are at least 4 "D" rings on the bed for your tiedowns.
Very good stuff here. You will also need a good trailer brake controller for the trailer brakes. Go with Tekonsha controllers and get at least the Prodigy P2. These are easy to install and easy to configure for the trailer load. Tekonsha also has "plug and play" wire harnesses to connect the controller to the vehicle.
You need to have a good receiver hitch that is, at a minimum, a Class III or IV type. Get a good ball to match the coupler size (2' or 2 5/16") and is rated for 6000lbs. With most open trailers, a weight equalizing hitch is not really needed nor is an anti-sway bar.
The trailer should have a "breakaway box" which is a batter powered device that will apply the trailer box if the trailer completely disconnects from the tow vehicle.
You will need to determine where the car will sit on the trailer in order to have the proper tongue weight. This is about 10 to 15% of the weight of the loaded trailer. The tongue weight has to be added to the gross cargo load of the tow vehicle to determine the total weight. In setting up the tow rig and trailer, try to make sure both the leaded trailer and tow rig sit level. Air bags on the rear axles of the tow rig can be a big help here and will add to the cargo capacity.
Remember that everything that goes into the Expedition has to be added to the total weight. You , your buddies, the wife and/or girlfriend, the kids, the dog, any luggage and assorted tools and spare parts. All of this can add up really quick! You owner's manual will have tables that will show max weight figures based on the engine, body model, and suspension/drivetrain.
For straps, use ratchet straps with a gross 10,000 lb rating. Straps have a "Working Load Limit" that is 1/3 the gross rating. So that means a 10K strap has a WLL of 3300 lbs. That will insure the car wil be tied down with straps that will handle the load.
D-rings can be attached to the trailer frame or recessed rings can be added to the floor (and braced) but make sure the ratings are at least 5000 lbs each.
This is my PJ trailer and '08 Silverado with the 6.0L motor. It's a steel frame, has 3500 lb axles on both axles and a 2' dovetail. It weighs 2000 lbs and my 87 weighs about 3400. I built a tire rack and added a small tool box I got from Lowe's. One thing I liked about this particular trailer is that the fenders are low enough that the doors will open and clear the fenders.
Last edited by c4cruiser; 12-27-2011 at 12:14 PM.
11-30-2010, 09:13 AM
#10
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Search fnction can provvide many threads covering this topic. Listed below are random thoughts about many of the things required for easy and successful towing to the track.
1) Check the tow capacity of your vehicle against what you will be taking to the track. Trailer, car, spares and tires can get to a vehicles capacity in a hurry. 2) Trailer wise, go an aluminum one such as a Featherlite or Trailex if your budget can handle it. 3) Get a tire rack for the spare set of tires, a tool box for the jack -spares - tools - lubricants etc., 4) 18 foot open trailer is about as small as you can go with a Vette and leave room for the tool box and tire rack. 5) Double 3500LB axles, electric brakes on BOTH axles. 6) Get a drop tail with ramps that store in the trailer bed. 7) Get a removable fender at least on the drivers side as the door on the Vette will not clear and you will have to crawl out the window or build ramps on the trailer to allow for exit. 8) Get the highest capacity tires D or E rated tires you can get and be sure to get a spare tire and wheel. C rated tires are barely adequate regardless of what the sales man says. 9) Make sure that there are at least 4 "D" rings on the bed for your tiedowns.
1) Check the tow capacity of your vehicle against what you will be taking to the track. Trailer, car, spares and tires can get to a vehicles capacity in a hurry. 2) Trailer wise, go an aluminum one such as a Featherlite or Trailex if your budget can handle it. 3) Get a tire rack for the spare set of tires, a tool box for the jack -spares - tools - lubricants etc., 4) 18 foot open trailer is about as small as you can go with a Vette and leave room for the tool box and tire rack. 5) Double 3500LB axles, electric brakes on BOTH axles. 6) Get a drop tail with ramps that store in the trailer bed. 7) Get a removable fender at least on the drivers side as the door on the Vette will not clear and you will have to crawl out the window or build ramps on the trailer to allow for exit. 8) Get the highest capacity tires D or E rated tires you can get and be sure to get a spare tire and wheel. C rated tires are barely adequate regardless of what the sales man says. 9) Make sure that there are at least 4 "D" rings on the bed for your tiedowns.
More info at: http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-mates-front.aspx
11-30-2010, 10:20 AM
#11
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If you're only going to the track 1-4 times a year you don't have to get too crazy IMO. Chances are the tracks you'll run on will be fairly close to home and considering what you're pulling with an open trailer should work well for you. You've gotten some great advice and suggestions. There's not much for me to add but FWIW I'll show you what I consider to be a great open auto trailer made in Willcox, Arizona. It's a Jim-Glo tilt-bed...it's light weight, no ramps required and it's wide enough to drive on with ease. I opted for the taller front tool box/wind screen to protect the car and the integral winch stand inside. I've pulled horse trailers for years and I track my car a lot. I have a couple minor things I want to do to the trailer but its worked extremely well for me.
http://www.jimglo.com/gallery.php
http://www.jimglo.com/gallery.php
