Torque Tube Rebuild
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Torque Tube Rebuild
I am in the process of rebuilding my torque tube. The car is used solely for HPDE and not driven on the street. I am trying to decide whether to go with solid (aluminum) couplers or stick with the stock rubber variety. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
#2
Racer
I am doing mine soon also and after seeing my nephew go through a copuple sets in his FRC, he researeched and the german made stock ones are what will last the longest in track duty use. Most of the other types are best for drag use only. I hope this helps you! I also was told to avoid the knock off ones, get the german made that BMW's use too.
#5
Drifting
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The difference between a '97 - '00 TT and the '01 and newer is the size of the driveshaft and the couplers.
'97 - '00 - 53mm driveshaft and 10mm bolts in the couplers
'01 and newer - 63mm driveshaft and 12mm bolts in coupler
The newer couplers are also stronger.
Here's all the parts needed. The bearings and slinger ring are the same in both.
I rebuilt mine a few times over the years. I replaced all the bearings and both couplers. I used factory replacements but bought them from BMW because they were cheaper. You need a slinger ring, 3 bearings and 2 couplers. And one Big A$$ pair of C-Clip pliers.
Slinger Ring - GM part number is 12456208 cost $4.42 from http://www.gmpartshouse.com/.
Bearings -
SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2
Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-31191
Description: 12mm Bolt
110 mm diameter : Uses (6) 12 x 1.5 x 58 bolt.
Trans Type: 5-Speed Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36
Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-46069
Description: 10mm Bolt
96 mm diameter : Uses (6) 10 x 50 bolt.
Trans Type: Automatic Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36
You can get a FEBI coupler or the Lemforder which is the OEM.
'97 - '00 - 53mm driveshaft and 10mm bolts in the couplers
'01 and newer - 63mm driveshaft and 12mm bolts in coupler
The newer couplers are also stronger.
Here's all the parts needed. The bearings and slinger ring are the same in both.
I rebuilt mine a few times over the years. I replaced all the bearings and both couplers. I used factory replacements but bought them from BMW because they were cheaper. You need a slinger ring, 3 bearings and 2 couplers. And one Big A$$ pair of C-Clip pliers.
Slinger Ring - GM part number is 12456208 cost $4.42 from http://www.gmpartshouse.com/.
Bearings -
SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2
Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-31191
Description: 12mm Bolt
110 mm diameter : Uses (6) 12 x 1.5 x 58 bolt.
Trans Type: 5-Speed Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36
Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-46069
Description: 10mm Bolt
96 mm diameter : Uses (6) 10 x 50 bolt.
Trans Type: Automatic Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36
You can get a FEBI coupler or the Lemforder which is the OEM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Call RPM and they can supply, bearings and couplings as well as new bolt kit. I just did my TT . I used the poly coupling on one end, solid aluminum on the other. It all came out great.
#8
Le Mans Master
I thought I read a thread by either LGM or Katech where they suggested using solid couplers on one end and flex on the other for cars which are basically street cars which are tracked but not full race cars, and solid on both ends for full race cars?
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Drift Vette (09-23-2021)
#10
Racer
LOL! So true...
If one was to go with the solid/rubber combo, does it make any difference which one goes where? If I had to guess, I'd say having the rubber coupler up front would be better for driver noise & vibraton. Any other consideratons?
Will having the aluminum coupler cause the rubber coupler to wear faster (require more frequent inspection)?
If one was to go with the solid/rubber combo, does it make any difference which one goes where? If I had to guess, I'd say having the rubber coupler up front would be better for driver noise & vibraton. Any other consideratons?
Will having the aluminum coupler cause the rubber coupler to wear faster (require more frequent inspection)?
#11
Burning Brakes
After having a guibo self destruct, then later a guibo bolt self destruct, separately due to a big bump on track (think full compression and rebound while at max acceleration in 4th gear on slicks), two things I learned:
1. I would never use anything but OEM quality (BMW or GM) Guibos. Top teams use more rigid ones but they also rebuild everything more frequently then the hobbyist. NOTE: Top teams drill inspection holes in their torque tubes right at the couplers just so they can see developing problems.
2. Replace all the bolts every time you are in there. Do not resuse any of them. If I could find ARP replacements I would use them.
1. I would never use anything but OEM quality (BMW or GM) Guibos. Top teams use more rigid ones but they also rebuild everything more frequently then the hobbyist. NOTE: Top teams drill inspection holes in their torque tubes right at the couplers just so they can see developing problems.
2. Replace all the bolts every time you are in there. Do not resuse any of them. If I could find ARP replacements I would use them.
#12
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
We went to solid couplers front and rear when we started using the sequential gear boxes in the car, because they shifted so fast it was harder on the rubber couplers.
#13
The W.C. cars (99-07) used OEM rubber couplers at the front and our solid ones at the back along with a carbon shaft.
We went to solid couplers front and rear when we started using the sequential gear boxes in the car, because they shifted so fast it was harder on the rubber couplers.
We went to solid couplers front and rear when we started using the sequential gear boxes in the car, because they shifted so fast it was harder on the rubber couplers.
#14
Drifting
I went to solid couplers on my street/track car which is slowly becoming a full track car and I definitely notice a lot more vibration throughout the car as I drive it on track. Took awhile to get used to. Almost feels as though something is wrong at times depending on how much throttle you give it. If I did it again I may have gotten one rubber and one solid.
#15
I know that in theory "you can never be too careful", but is that really necessary? Seems to me that the torque spec was pretty light and with the rubber couplers they aren't really subjected to much shock load even in a race environment. With solid couplers that's a different scenario, but I've never heard of one breaking before...
#16
Burning Brakes
I know that in theory "you can never be too careful", but is that really necessary? Seems to me that the torque spec was pretty light and with the rubber couplers they aren't really subjected to much shock load even in a race environment. With solid couplers that's a different scenario, but I've never heard of one breaking before...
#17
Race Director
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Been running solid on both ends for 3 or 4 years now. Big cam, clutch pack, good amount of HP and sticky track tires with no problems. (C5Z) However, I am old enough to know that could change just any day.
#18
Le Mans Master
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motor mounts
after 3 torque tube rebuilds, I learned this the hard way. check your engine mounts! bad or broken engine mounts will make you car eat the rubber quidos in the torque tube.
Yeah I know it doesn't make sense its all bolted together... believe me it does cause this!
In the toque tube I also run a solid in the back and a six shooter in the front, Very good combo, has lasted 3 seasons.. no vibrations
Along with new motor mounts
Yeah I know it doesn't make sense its all bolted together... believe me it does cause this!
In the toque tube I also run a solid in the back and a six shooter in the front, Very good combo, has lasted 3 seasons.. no vibrations
Along with new motor mounts
#19
Drifting
after 3 torque tube rebuilds, I learned this the hard way. check your engine mounts! bad or broken engine mounts will make you car eat the rubber quidos in the torque tube.
Yeah I know it doesn't make sense its all bolted together... believe me it does cause this!
In the toque tube I also run a solid in the back and a six shooter in the front, Very good combo, has lasted 3 seasons.. no vibrations
Along with new motor mounts
Yeah I know it doesn't make sense its all bolted together... believe me it does cause this!
In the toque tube I also run a solid in the back and a six shooter in the front, Very good combo, has lasted 3 seasons.. no vibrations
Along with new motor mounts