Conversion from HPDE care to Racecar
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Conversion from HPDE car to race car
Been doing DE's for a few years now, ready to jump into full on racing. I have a seat, harness, bigger radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler, diff cooler, Wilwood brakes, and have gutted most of the interior for HPDE. I figure next steps for NASA/SCCA racing are cage, coil overs, wing and splitter. Any part recommendations for putting together a well sorted ST3 / ST2 car?
Last edited by SunnydayDILYSI; 08-28-2015 at 09:48 PM.
#2
Instructor
I'm on the same path as you and one thing I've learned so far is you need to keep your end in mind as the class you choose can dictate what mods and things you need. Start from there, read the rules a million times, and work back.
Also, I cannot stress enough, do the safety items first (you mentioned cage), but also include a cool shirt/suit and fire suppression.
Also, I cannot stress enough, do the safety items first (you mentioned cage), but also include a cool shirt/suit and fire suppression.
#3
Burning Brakes
Dry sump??!!!!! Firebottle fire system with nozzles aimed at driver and two at engine (between headers and block), AIM Solo DL, 3 sets of wheels (2 drys and one wet), braided brake lines, SKF HD hubs, Window Net (all custom, nothing you can buy off the shelf), Stoptech ST60 Trophy front brakes or AP 6 piston racing (haven't seen anyone do well with Wilwood for racing on a C6 at LS2/3 power levels).. Make up a cage/frame for passenger floor so you can mount ballast there, at ST3 for sure you will find you need to ballast up, battery relocated to trunk with battery cover, Kill switch, two piece 14" front rotors (Stoptech or better), Coleman two piece OEM size rear rotors, eliminates handbrake, LG Monoball for suspension, make sure ABS still works. Bleed kit for clutch slave hopefully already installed, otherwise you will ruin a race weekend with the clutch on the floor, get it done now. HP Tuners to monitor engine vitals and flash different programs so you can switch between ST3 or ST2 on different weekends depending on car count.
Spares:
- Extra Brake booster, EBCM, BCM, Clutch master, extra Guibos, extra hubs, extra brake rings, portable plug in defogger for wet weekend..
Or.. buy mine, it is in Dallas: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1590373404
Spares:
- Extra Brake booster, EBCM, BCM, Clutch master, extra Guibos, extra hubs, extra brake rings, portable plug in defogger for wet weekend..
Or.. buy mine, it is in Dallas: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1590373404
#4
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Been doing DE's for a few years now, ready to jump into full on racing. I have a seat, harness, bigger radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler, diff cooler, Wilwood brakes, and have gutted most of the interior for HPDE. I figure next steps for NASA/SCCA racing are cage, coil overs, wing and splitter. Any part recommendations for putting together a well sorted ST3 / ST2 car?
Converting a street car to a race car you are going to have a lot of things that can come out and a lot of parts you could sell...but in some cases it might be better to sell the current car and build one from the ground up. Saves you from having to hack up wiring or ending up with a lot of parts you can not really sell or do anything with.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
I have some additional mods including poly bushings, camber kit, 4 new SKF hubs, new ball joints, headers, CAI, cool suit, braided brake lines, brake ducts, two sets of wheels. I also have some of the racing gear such as a 5A suit, gloves, shoes, Arai helmet. I feel like I've gone past the point of return in terms of going back to stock. I'm sure it's doable, but seems like a lot less fun than going forward .
Looks like first priorities are: Cage, Fire Suppression, Kill Switch, Window Net, Bleed Kit for Clutch, Dry Sump
Then focus on: Upgrading brakes, Coil Overs, Wing, Splitter, Upgading to Mono-*****
Any thought on whether I could get by with an Accusump instead of the larger dry sump investment?
Anthony, I see that you guys will also be running PST, congrats! That's a great shop as well. Any chance of a special rate on LG gear for long time PST customers ?
Looks like first priorities are: Cage, Fire Suppression, Kill Switch, Window Net, Bleed Kit for Clutch, Dry Sump
Then focus on: Upgrading brakes, Coil Overs, Wing, Splitter, Upgading to Mono-*****
Any thought on whether I could get by with an Accusump instead of the larger dry sump investment?
Anthony, I see that you guys will also be running PST, congrats! That's a great shop as well. Any chance of a special rate on LG gear for long time PST customers ?
#6
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
Received 406 Likes
on
300 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I have some additional mods including poly bushings, camber kit, 4 new SKF hubs, new ball joints, headers, CAI, cool suit, braided brake lines, brake ducts, two sets of wheels. I also have some of the racing gear such as a 5A suit, gloves, shoes, Arai helmet. I feel like I've gone past the point of return in terms of going back to stock. I'm sure it's doable, but seems like a lot less fun than going forward .
Looks like first priorities are: Cage, Fire Suppression, Kill Switch, Window Net, Bleed Kit for Clutch, Dry Sump
Then focus on: Upgrading brakes, Coil Overs, Wing, Splitter, Upgading to Mono-*****
Any thought on whether I could get by with an Accusump instead of the larger dry sump investment?
Anthony, I see that you guys will also be running PST, congrats! That's a great shop as well. Any chance of a special rate on LG gear for long time PST customers ?
Looks like first priorities are: Cage, Fire Suppression, Kill Switch, Window Net, Bleed Kit for Clutch, Dry Sump
Then focus on: Upgrading brakes, Coil Overs, Wing, Splitter, Upgading to Mono-*****
Any thought on whether I could get by with an Accusump instead of the larger dry sump investment?
Anthony, I see that you guys will also be running PST, congrats! That's a great shop as well. Any chance of a special rate on LG gear for long time PST customers ?
If you pull it apart to do the cage I would get a race wiring harness too and loose a lot of weight and headaches in the long run.
#8
Gasoline Addict
Selling your current car and buying one that is already set up will save you a bunch of money in the long run. There are a few offered on this site that are of good value.
Or, do what many on here have already done: sell the street car (or track prepped Vette) and buy a GTA car. Supposed to be much cheaper to run, especially when it comes to consumables like tires and brakes...
Or, do what many on here have already done: sell the street car (or track prepped Vette) and buy a GTA car. Supposed to be much cheaper to run, especially when it comes to consumables like tires and brakes...
#10
Sunnyday, call Joe Aquilante at Phoenix Performance in Phoenixville PA. They have been turning Corvettes into race cars for many years. They have many, many National Championships to their credit. They did 2 cars for me over the years and both were outstanding. As far as selling your car, I know how I felt about mine. I felt an attachment to mine and wanted it, not another, as my race car. Have fun!
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
#15
I travel around and give safety classes to hpde people. if you take away one thing remember that your trying to build a safety system. the components of harness, seats, roll bar all need to work together in order to have a hope of keeping you safe. so get all the equipment and do it all at once.
#16
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I travel around and give safety classes to hpde people. if you take away one thing remember that your trying to build a safety system. the components of harness, seats, roll bar all need to work together in order to have a hope of keeping you safe. so get all the equipment and do it all at once.
Typically speaking to do a cage right you have to pull the car all the way to the frame and remove everything including the fuel system to do it correctly. Depending on driver you will probably have to loose most of the roof to get the helmet clearance for the main halo.
Once you are done with all of that why fight electrical problems by trying to use the factory harness going back together? If you leave it all there then you are just adding weight that doesn't have to be.
Then you have all of the extra parts, tabs, bolts, and connections that go on the street cars. In the end, it is typically easier to start with a bare frame or soemething that is already a roller.
End of the season for World Challenge is about up and there might be some Corvette's floating around that would be up for sale as rollers.
Heck...we have a few Aston's for sale if you want a different kind of race car.
#17
It is that but it is much more than that too.
Typically speaking to do a cage right you have to pull the car all the way to the frame and remove everything including the fuel system to do it correctly. Depending on driver you will probably have to loose most of the roof to get the helmet clearance for the main halo.
Once you are done with all of that why fight electrical problems by trying to use the factory harness going back together? If you leave it all there then you are just adding weight that doesn't have to be.
Then you have all of the extra parts, tabs, bolts, and connections that go on the street cars. In the end, it is typically easier to start with a bare frame or soemething that is already a roller.
End of the season for World Challenge is about up and there might be some Corvette's floating around that would be up for sale as rollers.
Heck...we have a few Aston's for sale if you want a different kind of race car.
Typically speaking to do a cage right you have to pull the car all the way to the frame and remove everything including the fuel system to do it correctly. Depending on driver you will probably have to loose most of the roof to get the helmet clearance for the main halo.
Once you are done with all of that why fight electrical problems by trying to use the factory harness going back together? If you leave it all there then you are just adding weight that doesn't have to be.
Then you have all of the extra parts, tabs, bolts, and connections that go on the street cars. In the end, it is typically easier to start with a bare frame or soemething that is already a roller.
End of the season for World Challenge is about up and there might be some Corvette's floating around that would be up for sale as rollers.
Heck...we have a few Aston's for sale if you want a different kind of race car.
#18
Drifting
Noticing that you live in Dallas, you should check out Pinnacle Autosports at Eagles Canyon Raceway (if you have interest in a GTA, TA2 or other racer). Gregg Rodgers runs a top quality shop. He has a really nice TA2 car for sale (GTA cars are much less, i.e. - $20-25K for a turnkey, ready to go racing car):
http://www.racingjunk.com/GT/182537809/TA2-Camaro.html
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Very helpful info. There was a wise man at MSR Cresson 3-years ago who told me "Take that stock Z06 and make it your daily driver, buy a race car for having out here and it will be a lot cheaper and more fun." If only I wasn't a dumb 34 year old kid... Now need to find someone who values a great street legal and fast HPDE car so I can trade up to full on race car.
#20
out of curiosity because I will be in your same shoes one day, can you explain what type of experience you have. You mention a few years but curious roughly how much seat time is that, what class and with who, tracks, times, etc.
I think I have more time prior to going full race car as I don't want a race car just to have fun with, I want to race it. Thanks
I think I have more time prior to going full race car as I don't want a race car just to have fun with, I want to race it. Thanks