Fuel/brake line replacement - '65 Coupe
06-20-2009, 09:51 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Fuel/brake line replacement - '65 Coupe
Has anybody replaced their brake and or fuel lines WITHOUT removing the body? Is it possible?
I bought all new lines for the car and and was looking at the car while on the lift and was studying how do this job and am now thinking the body should be raised.
Any and all help is always appreciated.
Eric
I bought all new lines for the car and and was looking at the car while on the lift and was studying how do this job and am now thinking the body should be raised.
Any and all help is always appreciated.
Eric
06-20-2009, 02:03 PM
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The front to rear brake line can be replaced with the body on, but it's a biotch 
The crossovers (front and rear) are easy.
As far as I know the only way to replace the front to rear fuel line is to lift the body, as it runs through the frame.
Good luck with your projects
Dave
The crossovers (front and rear) are easy.As far as I know the only way to replace the front to rear fuel line is to lift the body, as it runs through the frame.
Good luck with your projects
Dave
06-20-2009, 02:32 PM
#3
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
As far as I know, and believe me, I tried, I know of no way to swap out the brake line without at least taking the mounting bolts out. Where the brake line goes around the kick up, you can move it to the center around the drive shaft and get it out that way without having to make to many bends in the line.
And if you go that route, dont forget to undo your steering column at the rag joint or you will destroy it(trust me, I know
) and any other areas under the hood that have to move as you jack up the body.
And count your shims before hand.
And if you go that route, dont forget to undo your steering column at the rag joint or you will destroy it(trust me, I know
) and any other areas under the hood that have to move as you jack up the body.And count your shims before hand.
06-21-2009, 07:41 AM
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I replaced the brake lines on my '65 conv. Just had to take the rocker panels for brake lines and alos went to 67 dual master at the same time. No advice fuel line, sorry
06-21-2009, 08:47 AM
#6
Safety Car
Hey Eric,
I just did a fuel line swap on a 67 without lifting the body. It's tough, but can be done. I used a straight length of 3/8" tube, and fed it through a rear tail light opening into the frame. As it comes out the hole at the front of the kick-up, you have to start to bend it downward, and keep feeding from the back, until you have about 6" exposed, and a nice tight bend with no kinks etc. Now take the prebent repro line, before you install it, and cut it about halfway up the straight section, just past the turn at the front of the kick. Are you still with me??? You'll be able to feed the long piece (fuel pump to kick), over the top of the frame, and under the battery box. Make sure you have the remnants of the old tubing out. Sometimes you can brake the clips off also, which makes the whole thing a little easier. Then you want to line the two pieces, front and rear, getting them parallel to each other, and sitting nicely in thier correct position in front of the kick. Mark for a cut at the center of the exposed tubes, remove the long line, and swage the end for 3/8", about 1" long. Cut the rock guard spring in half, and push half "up" on the short piece, which is still in place. Re-install the long piece, and push the other half of the spring "down" on it. I use some small vise grips to hold the springs. Push the tubes together at the swage, and sweat the joint with silver soldier. Make sure you get a good seal, cause you won't be able to do this again (gas). Release the springs, and give them a twist or two to lock them together. A little black paint, and the judges will never see it!!! Good luck.
Mike Coletta
I just did a fuel line swap on a 67 without lifting the body. It's tough, but can be done. I used a straight length of 3/8" tube, and fed it through a rear tail light opening into the frame. As it comes out the hole at the front of the kick-up, you have to start to bend it downward, and keep feeding from the back, until you have about 6" exposed, and a nice tight bend with no kinks etc. Now take the prebent repro line, before you install it, and cut it about halfway up the straight section, just past the turn at the front of the kick. Are you still with me??? You'll be able to feed the long piece (fuel pump to kick), over the top of the frame, and under the battery box. Make sure you have the remnants of the old tubing out. Sometimes you can brake the clips off also, which makes the whole thing a little easier. Then you want to line the two pieces, front and rear, getting them parallel to each other, and sitting nicely in thier correct position in front of the kick. Mark for a cut at the center of the exposed tubes, remove the long line, and swage the end for 3/8", about 1" long. Cut the rock guard spring in half, and push half "up" on the short piece, which is still in place. Re-install the long piece, and push the other half of the spring "down" on it. I use some small vise grips to hold the springs. Push the tubes together at the swage, and sweat the joint with silver soldier. Make sure you get a good seal, cause you won't be able to do this again (gas). Release the springs, and give them a twist or two to lock them together. A little black paint, and the judges will never see it!!! Good luck.
Mike Coletta
06-22-2009, 08:36 AM
#8
Safety Car
I don't see how you can get the rear of the brake line in the correct position and under the clip behind where the TA arm connects with the body on. At least with a pre-bent line. I'd rather spend a couple extra hours doing things that will go fairly smooth than doing something that results in me cursing, fuming, and throwing things and maybe wind up half-*** just to get it done. I had already lifted the body last fall so I knew that it wouldn't be a big deal to do it again. There's some short cuts you can take since you only need to lift a few inches.
larry
larry
06-22-2009, 09:58 AM
#9
Drifting
Hey Eric,
I just did a fuel line swap on a 67 without lifting the body. It's tough, but can be done. I used a straight length of 3/8" tube, and fed it through a rear tail light opening into the frame. As it comes out the hole at the front of the kick-up, you have to start to bend it downward, and keep feeding from the back, until you have about 6" exposed, and a nice tight bend with no kinks etc. Now take the prebent repro line, before you install it, and cut it about halfway up the straight section, just past the turn at the front of the kick. Are you still with me??? You'll be able to feed the long piece (fuel pump to kick), over the top of the frame, and under the battery box. Make sure you have the remnants of the old tubing out. Sometimes you can brake the clips off also, which makes the whole thing a little easier. Then you want to line the two pieces, front and rear, getting them parallel to each other, and sitting nicely in thier correct position in front of the kick. Mark for a cut at the center of the exposed tubes, remove the long line, and swage the end for 3/8", about 1" long. Cut the rock guard spring in half, and push half "up" on the short piece, which is still in place. Re-install the long piece, and push the other half of the spring "down" on it. I use some small vise grips to hold the springs. Push the tubes together at the swage, and sweat the joint with silver soldier. Make sure you get a good seal, cause you won't be able to do this again (gas). Release the springs, and give them a twist or two to lock them together. A little black paint, and the judges will never see it!!! Good luck. Mike Coletta
I just did a fuel line swap on a 67 without lifting the body. It's tough, but can be done. I used a straight length of 3/8" tube, and fed it through a rear tail light opening into the frame. As it comes out the hole at the front of the kick-up, you have to start to bend it downward, and keep feeding from the back, until you have about 6" exposed, and a nice tight bend with no kinks etc. Now take the prebent repro line, before you install it, and cut it about halfway up the straight section, just past the turn at the front of the kick. Are you still with me??? You'll be able to feed the long piece (fuel pump to kick), over the top of the frame, and under the battery box. Make sure you have the remnants of the old tubing out. Sometimes you can brake the clips off also, which makes the whole thing a little easier. Then you want to line the two pieces, front and rear, getting them parallel to each other, and sitting nicely in thier correct position in front of the kick. Mark for a cut at the center of the exposed tubes, remove the long line, and swage the end for 3/8", about 1" long. Cut the rock guard spring in half, and push half "up" on the short piece, which is still in place. Re-install the long piece, and push the other half of the spring "down" on it. I use some small vise grips to hold the springs. Push the tubes together at the swage, and sweat the joint with silver soldier. Make sure you get a good seal, cause you won't be able to do this again (gas). Release the springs, and give them a twist or two to lock them together. A little black paint, and the judges will never see it!!! Good luck.
Mike Coletta
06-22-2009, 11:35 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
I tried several times to do this but always ended up with a bent up mess. I am sure it is possible if others say they have done it but I could not do it. My solution was to use the 66 brake line as it is runs a slightly different path. after doing that I think maybe I could have done the 65 but it would have been even harder and might still have not gotten it. As for the fuel line, it didn't occur to me to go through the tail light, wish I had thought to try that. My solution was to just use flexible braided steel line following a similar to stock route, this also had the advantage of allowing a me to do a larger diameter line which I thought I might need someday. I did use a hard -8 AL line segment to go along the rocker panel and out into the engine bay. In retrospect I would have used the braided steel all the way from tank to motor as the hard line has some vibration issues when used with my electric fuel pump...which was a whole different mistake, if I could find a mechanical that fit I would seriously consider going back that direction, but I still think the braided steel is the way to go.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
06-22-2009, 01:38 PM
#11
Safety Car
Originally Posted by 61retro
Hey Eric,
I just did a fuel line swap on a 67 without lifting the body. It's tough, but can be done. I used a straight length of 3/8" tube, and fed it through a rear tail light opening into the frame. As it comes out the hole at the front of the kick-up, you have to start to bend it downward, and keep feeding from the back, until you have about 6" exposed, and a nice tight bend with no kinks etc. Now take the prebent repro line, before you install it, and cut it about halfway up the straight section, just past the turn at the front of the kick. Are you still with me??? You'll be able to feed the long piece (fuel pump to kick), over the top of the frame, and under the battery box. Make sure you have the remnants of the old tubing out. Sometimes you can brake the clips off also, which makes the whole thing a little easier. Then you want to line the two pieces, front and rear, getting them parallel to each other, and sitting nicely in thier correct position in front of the kick. Mark for a cut at the center of the exposed tubes, remove the long line, and swage the end for 3/8", about 1" long. Cut the rock guard spring in half, and push half "up" on the short piece, which is still in place. Re-install the long piece, and push the other half of the spring "down" on it. I use some small vise grips to hold the springs. Push the tubes together at the swage, and sweat the joint with silver soldier. Make sure you get a good seal, cause you won't be able to do this again (gas). Release the springs, and give them a twist or two to lock them together. A little black paint, and the judges will never see it!!! Good luck. Mike Coletta
Hey Eric,
I just did a fuel line swap on a 67 without lifting the body. It's tough, but can be done. I used a straight length of 3/8" tube, and fed it through a rear tail light opening into the frame. As it comes out the hole at the front of the kick-up, you have to start to bend it downward, and keep feeding from the back, until you have about 6" exposed, and a nice tight bend with no kinks etc. Now take the prebent repro line, before you install it, and cut it about halfway up the straight section, just past the turn at the front of the kick. Are you still with me??? You'll be able to feed the long piece (fuel pump to kick), over the top of the frame, and under the battery box. Make sure you have the remnants of the old tubing out. Sometimes you can brake the clips off also, which makes the whole thing a little easier. Then you want to line the two pieces, front and rear, getting them parallel to each other, and sitting nicely in thier correct position in front of the kick. Mark for a cut at the center of the exposed tubes, remove the long line, and swage the end for 3/8", about 1" long. Cut the rock guard spring in half, and push half "up" on the short piece, which is still in place. Re-install the long piece, and push the other half of the spring "down" on it. I use some small vise grips to hold the springs. Push the tubes together at the swage, and sweat the joint with silver soldier. Make sure you get a good seal, cause you won't be able to do this again (gas). Release the springs, and give them a twist or two to lock them together. A little black paint, and the judges will never see it!!! Good luck. Mike Coletta
Do you have any photos of this procedure?... Please say yes.
Mike Coletta 352-241-4686
