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Late this afternoon I did my experiment using 11 tools loaded with the fasteners. I recently received the firewall insulation kit from Zip Products. It includes the 11 rubber fasteners.
Note the 2 Zip bag labeled parts to the right in the first photo. Upper is the C3 version which this tool will work fine for. The lower part is the C2 version. It has a larger tip and although it can be loaded into the above tool, it's a bit more cumbersome to get in there. More on that later.
Here they are all loaded into the insulation and firewall.
Firewall view showing the positions.
These are tucked in the wheel well up high.
Here are photos of them installed.
Outside....
Inside....
Here is a video of the sequence. I had one that slipped off where the insulation is overlapped. I realize now that if too much soapy solution is used it won't stretch the rubber enough to reach the doubled up attach points.
The camera battery went dead just after the last one I did over. It worked better with less soapy water when inserting the rubber into the tool.This makes it stretch further before the "POP".
I think it worked out to about 4 or 5 minutes total time to do this job.
I am the proud owner of one of Rich's tools (I think he did some of the prototyping on my '63). I had to write "Firewall Grommet" on it with a Sharpee so when I come across it in 6 months I'll remember what the dickens its for. Memory is the second thing to go as you get older
I am the proud owner of one of Rich's tools (I think he did some of the prototyping on my '63). I had to write "Firewall Grommet" on it with a Sharpee so when I come across it in 6 months I'll remember what the dickens its for. Memory is the second thing to go as you get older
My Machine Shop is booked this week, and he's moving to a new location next week. i spoke to him yesterday and when he's setup in the new shop he'll make more. Actually, I may make them.
I need to rethink the C2 version. The rubber tip is 0.500". It's harder to load the part into the tool. It may need another design but could be more costly. I have the idea in my head but need to make a prototype. This could take a while.
I think I have it done for the C2 version. A modification to the same tool Because the C2 rubber tips are bigger, I came up with this and just did a test. It worked. I simply cut 4 slots with my Dremel. I dip the tool in the soapy water, push the fastener in, loaded it in the test piece I made using a thick piece of wood drilled 0.400", and it "POP"d just fine the first time.
My machine shop has now moved from 15 minutes to 35 min away from me. For a few days I helped the owner, Matt, with some of the move and getting his new shop set up. His electricians spent several days powering up the new shop. My engine hoist came in handy to move the 700 lb 3 Phase converter needed to run his 3 CNC machines, a Bridgeport Mill, and a Webb CNC Mill.
His Methods Slant 50 CNC machine, which is used to make these tools, had some trouble with the new 3 phase power system. The main hydraulic pump motor needed to be rewired to swap 2 input lines of the 3. It was running in reverse. The electricians said that due to the phase converter operation, that output line is a higher output voltage and was likely the cause. A quick rewire and we had it all set and getting proper rotation and pump pressure. I learned a lot about 3 phase power the last few days. All in all, this little tool gadget has opened new horizons of knowledge for me.....CNC machines, Bridgeports, various machining methods, heavy duty AC power, and learning so much from Matt about mechanical machining processes and equipment.
Okay, now back to the tool.....
I was there yesterday and used his metal cutting blade band saw to create several C2 1963 to 1967 version tools. It's a much better method than my shaky Dremel tool cutting wheel method. He has a special ($90) abrasive wheel on his bench grinder to remove the burrs. It worked great. I need one now!
For those of you signed up for my C2 1963 to 1967 trials testing, I'll be sending this version of the tool out to you. They are going out today. I've included a set of instructions also.(see attached files at bottom) Again, please send me feedback on how you make out with it.
I also have decided that for ease of use, this version also works best for the C3 1968 to 1975 fasteners. It's a longer tip and length so it's better suited for this version. However I don't have a C3 car here to actually test it's operation. I have one nearby I'll be able to test when I get a chance. More on that later. I have not posted anything in the C3 forum here yet so if one of you knows a 1968 to 1975 applicable user I'd like to send one or two out those those folks for trials testing too.
As an aside, the above C2 version will likely also work for the C1 1956 to 1962 version fasteners but for now this "closed end" version works the best on these smaller tipped fasteners as shown below. I have also sent several of those to you trials folks today along with instructions.(below also)
As soon as the machine shop recuperates from the move and makes his other customers production, I'm scheduled in next to fab a new quantity of my products. Maybe by end of week.
Attached below are instructions for each type and the pdf pictorial that Dave Z created for me a while ago.
Rich,
I finally got to use "the tool" on my 57 and it does a great job, especially where the firewall insulation overlaps.
As an aside: I am a chemical guy and when I started working at Pitney Bowes in Connecticut our lab was right outside of "the tool room", I thought great I can get tools there. DUH.
I quickly learned that the tool room guys made dies, tools, fixtures, jigs etc.
And the guys all had cars, motorcycles and boats.
I learned a lot from those guys and I am still fascinated by their skills.
I bought a very old South Bend 9" lathe and learned to make small parts for motorcycles and cars. I still use the lathe and it will be 100 years old in a year or 2. Leather belt drive, very cool.
So I appreciate the work you have done on "the tool" and the skills required to produce it.
It is a pity that tool and die apprentice programs are all but gone. I understand that VW in the USA has a great program.
To bad our government can't get involved to save out industry....
Again, great meeting you in Lakeland and the tool is great.
Bruce B
I've received much positive feedback from many of you that I sent the tools to for trials testing. Thanks for your help.
This past weekend I spent time at the Machine Shop about 20 miles away from here on the CNC and the Bridgeport making them. I have 100 tools made. 50 C1 tools, 25 C2/C3 tools, and 25 premade for either version but need the last operation to make more C2 versions if needed.
I've sent a note to the Admins asking if it's permissible to put them up for sale in the Parts FS Forum. Prices are commensurate with the Stainless steel stock and CNC and Manual Bridgeport operations. There are 3 to 4 op's to make the parts on the machines. 3 for the C1 version, 4 for the C2/C3 version.
I need to abide by forum rules so we'll see what happens.
Thanks for the interest guys, but I'd likely contract it out to the Corvette vendors to then buy through them. I don't know if I want to go into the business of making and selling tools, plus I'd have to be a "Supporting Vendor" here and I doubt that will be in my future. I want to restore the cars. But I will think about it.
Originally Posted by rich5962
I've received much positive feedback from many of you that I sent the tools to for trials testing. Thanks for your help.
This past weekend I spent time at the Machine Shop about 20 miles away from here on the CNC and the Bridgeport making them. I have 100 tools made. 50 C1 tools, 25 C2/C3 tools, and 25 premade for either version but need the last operation to make more C2 versions if needed.
I've sent a note to the Admins asking if it's permissible to put them up for sale in the Parts FS Forum. Prices are commensurate with the Stainless steel stock and CNC and Manual Bridgeport operations. There are 3 to 4 op's to make the parts on the machines. 3 for the C1 version, 4 for the C2/C3 version.
I need to abide by forum rules so we'll see what happens.
Rich
Just to let everyone know what's going on here, Rich was correct way back when he feared this would require becoming a Supporting Vendor to produce and sell on the forum. Actually the entire "testing" process crosses the forum rules regarding "gauging interest in a product" but we will chalk it up to just discussion on making something and letting someone try it out.
However, as a few other people on the forum have discovered, making a product and re-selling them in the forum is clearly a situation that would require becoming a Supporting Vendor:
Supporting vendors pay for the considerable bandwidth charges on the Forum, making it free for the rest of us. In exchange, they get the privilege of using the Forum to market and promote their goods and services. Historically, we allow them to post in the generation sections and the regional sections to market and promote their products/services.
Forum members are welcome to sell a Corvette or Corvette parts they purchased for their own personal use. They also are welcome to use the Forum to purchase items for their personal use. Anything else is considered to be a commercial sale or a commercial purchase for the purpose of re-selling.
Members are not prohibited from mentioning it when they have a good (or bad, for that matter) experience with a non-supporting vendor. But such mentions cannot be so specific (address, phone number, e-mail address, URL, price, part number, offer to send contact information via PMs, etc.) or so frequent that they become marketing and promotional references.
Only supporting vendors can post Group Purchase threads. Only supporting vendors are permitted to post threads to gauge interest in a product.
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I'll leave this thread open for the general interest of the process that went into making this tool, but please do not conduct business regarding buying, selling, promoting or distribution in the public forums, thanks.
Thanks very much for your co-operation.
PS: kudos to Rich for handling this properly and checking with Admins on this ahead of time, it makes everyone's job a ton easier. Thanks again, Rich.
I am the proud owner of one of Rich's tools (I think he did some of the prototyping on my '63). I had to write "Firewall Grommet" on it with a Sharpee so when I come across it in 6 months I'll remember what the dickens its for. Memory is the second thing to go as you get older
Hi Frankie, Al again thanks for the help on my 63 coupe window run looks great. trying to get the fire wall plugs installed with no help . saw the article on this tool any chance you know where to buy one? if not found the info on how to make one . thanks bigal883.
While I had a '63 here for some engine tasks, I noticed it was missing one firewall insulation plug tip in the area directly behind the driver's side cylinder head.
Looking inside the interior, I could see the plug, but it was obviously broken away or missing deep in the insulation. I wasn't in tight against the insulation.
The plug was deteriorated. Note this is one of the most difficult plug positions as it has to hold the overlap of 2 layers of the insulation at the joined sections.
The hole as seen from inside after the plug was removed.
I discovered my C2 version of the tool was too big for this hole. I had to use my C1 version.
I inserted the soaped-up plug into the tool with a slotted driver. Then drove it home with the soaped-up blunt push-tool.
I reached inside the footwell and inserted the tool and plug assembly through the hole.
Here's the result. It popped right in perfectly with a "POP".
Did a quick video clip with my shaky right hand on my old camera, while pulling the plug with my left.....
My machine shop has the material now in to make a production run. When the first lot is made I'll be passing a few out to those interested for trials testing. I'm going to send a few to some of my restoration shop acquaintances to help me verify it's usefulness.
Rich
Hi, just read your info and was wondering if any tools are available to buy? Working on my 1963 coupe and having a hard time installing plugs. don't have any help and its a real pain. PS do you have anymore samples? al dutton 55 hazel st west spfld mass 01089.
01-27-2015, 06:47 AM
The rubber tip is 0.500". It's harder to load the part into the tool. It may need another design but could be more costly. I have the idea in my head but need to make a prototype. This could take a while. 
