RoudyRick

My 66 with a big block must be very different from all others. I just pulled the driveshaft, misc cables and attachments. Removed the trans cross member and pulled the trans out. My only problem was the weight of the trans. As a "kid" I pulled them quite often with no big deal but as an old fart I had a tool cart next to me under the lift and sort of dropped it on it, now it needs a little body work

tbarb

I don't have a lift but my experience is with a nice set of car ramps under the front tires, very safe compared to jack stands. The only tight working area is removing the rear driveshaft u-bolts but that area is tight regardless.

If you have a large piece of carpet that helps the body and of course heat for our old bones.

Tampa Jerry

Rick: How did you get the cross member out? Did someone add a removable cross member? None of the stick midyears had removable cross members. I regret not adding a removable cross member when the body was off the frame. If you think removing a Muncie is a pain, try a Tremec. Jerry

GTOguy

I broke down and bought a lift at age 51. Best thing I ever bought for the shop. After a lifetime of working on cars, gravel-backing was simply below my pay grade. As we age, we have to prioritize: I realized at age 40 after digging a 75 foot drainage ditch by hand that I could have hired a couple of 20 year old laborers to do it and would have been money ahead. As I've gotten older, my time has increased in value a whole bunch, and I've learned to 'farm out' labor intensive, minimally skilled tasks. I have a transmission jack and a rack, but would still do a muncie stab on the ground, on cardboard, taking my time. When I'm 70? probably not. And the 833 hemi-box I stabbed in my '66 Coronet when I was 32 and in my prime? Never again!

RoudyRick

This is my first 66 Vet so I assumed they all had a removable cross member. Looks very much original, bolts and such

Bluestripe67

Maybe the frame was modified to look as correct as possible per '68 and up or the car is actually sitting on a '68 and up frame. Dennis

Tampa Jerry

My 68 does not have a removable cross member either Only the automatic C-3s had that option. Jerry

RoudyRick

I'll take some pictures of the tag and crossmember for review this evening

pmvette

I'm with the "Pull the motor and Trans" guys.


USED to be able to have everything ready to pull in 1 1/2 - 2 hours on a side pipe car with no lift, just a jack and stands.


Yeah, 35 then, 70 now. Might not go so fast today!

Crunch527

I've never had a problem getting a Muncie out by itself...undercar exhaust usually needs to come out, so hopefully there are flanges in the exhaust that can be used to disconnect. Otherwise, a Muncie is small enough to slip out, even with the non-removable crossmember...the 5 speed Tremecs are a different story...

I am still able to wallow on the floor and handle a Muncie by myself. If you aren't able to do that, then either pull the eng/trans, find someone who can wallow, use a lift or pay a shop to do it.

Cheers,

RoudyRick

Driver side


Passenger side


From the rear


Tag


OK, Got some pix early. Before the experts jump on the "tag" I know it's supposed to be Moss Green

67's

Your crossmember has been modified to be removable, probably when they put the patch on the frame.

Bluestripe67

I can see the patch/cut weld also. What is the bracket on the one side used for? It's not factory. Dennis

RoudyRick

That bracket is supposed to be the seat floor support but is useless due to poor welds

Nowhere Man

I would say the floor was sagging and instead of fixing the bulk head they added that

RoudyRick

I've heard of folks adding a bracket to help support the floor but this one doesn't even touch and the floor seems just fine, no sag. One of the previous owners might have been a large marge and needed some assurance

RoudyRick

I'm glad they did, makes pulling the trans a breeze, except for the weight for us old timers

DUB

I assume that we all understand that taking out the transmission is NOT the problem.

Being supported (either on the ground or on a lift)...the most important thing I worry about is INSTALLING the transmission with the new clutch disc. I have a transmission jack so I can get it set and slide it right in...BUT....

If someone is going to do this without a good device that can support the transmission correctly so it can index the center of the clutch disc..and also the NON-magnetic oilite bronze pilot bushing that was CORRECTLY replaced....then damage to these parts can possibly occur and thus...problems can begin.

And YES....I have also pulled the engine with the transmission attached due to many gaskets on the engine were leaking and it only made sense to pull it all and get the engine on a stand and do all the gaskets...which actually allowed for the job to go much easier....and then address the clutch and cheek the bellhousing for the correct bore concentricity my measuring it.

IF you disconnect your driveshaft....hopefully you mark it so it goes back together just like you found it.

And YES...on a few Corvettes....the transmission would NOT come out due to about 1/8" of the input shaft would not clear the center hole in the bellhousing...which caused me to have to detach the bellhousing and take both the transmission and bellhousing down at the same time and get the angle of the engine correct for this to happen.

DUB

RoudyRick

For clutch disk alignment I always use an old input shaft, then be sure the trany is in gear when I push it in. Makes it easier to index with the clutch disk, then pull the shift arm to get it back in neutral to align the trans and bell housing.

TJefferson2020

I have to drop mine to replace the throw out bearing. I have a removable crossmember. I'm hoping that reinstalling will be easier since I'm not removing the clutch itself. The alignment should stay the same. Yes?