tom r c

I have a 66 w/knock off hubs. Rotors run out .010 on front, possible to shim this setup?

DansYellow66

I guess you could try but it would be kind of a bubba thing to me. Unless each stud had a graduated thickness shim under it, torqueing the wheels down would probably warp the rotors even more eventually. Are your rotors still riveted on the hubs? If loose you might try shifting them around on the lug nuts and see if you can find a spot where the runout is less. Otherwise I would suggest removing the rotors and sending the hubs to Blairs to have new rotors riveted on.

GTOguy

.010 can easily be machined true on a brake lathe in a matter of minutes. Especially easy with the newer 'on car' pro-cut style lathes.

DansYellow66

It might be a good idea to mic your rotor thickness before deciding what to do - in case they are worn below service limits.

Sky65

Summit carries them. I expect other parts suppliers as well.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0306/overview/

Tom

wmf62

that's trick... I had a wobble on my rear rotors and I used a combination of shims around the studs to straighten it out....

Bill

tom r c

Thanks for replies, here are answers and another question.
I check rotor thickness and
Front are 1.213 and 1.216
Rear 1.239 and 1.242
Previous owner replaced rear and tried to use the front even tho 1 was U Size.
See why front won't even pump up, but why does rear (.001 tir) pump up but then lose pressure after a few miles?

65 vette dude

My front rotors were out .012, and .018 and those shims from Summit are exactly what I used to level things out......worked great!

DUB

The fronts are BAD and need to be recycled (discarded).

NEW ROTOR is 1.250"

MINIMUM AFTER refinishing is 1.230. Meaning you can not turn them less than 1.230"

DISCARD is 1.215"

I can not comment on WHY you are loosing brakes in a few miles. This generally occurs when the rotor run-out of the rotors are REALLY BAD.

I do not know if you have verified that the master cylinder is not leaking...and any other area within the system.

I do not feel it has anything to due with you having knock-offs....especially if the hubs for the knock off are nutted to the rotor like a wheel would. That would allow the rotor to be correct. Because the actual knock-off has nothing to do but hold the wheel on and not the rotor.

When you bleed the brakes...after the problem showed back up after a drive........are you getting any air out of a caliper??

DUB