C3_ERROR

I've been researching for a while now and feel like I have a pretty good grasp of the differences between the C3's. I've read the ten rules to buying a C3 and watched the video. But the one thing I haven't found was the pros and cons to each year.

I've heard the 77 is kind of unique (odd because of all the 77 frame off threads I have been reading) but not sure if that is good or bad (assume it's not good for getting parts). I know the fiberglass nose and rear cars tend to be worth more and the plastic bumpers aren't that great. But again other then preference on looks I'm not sure what would make someone pick one of the other.

Now a little background on me, I've done everything from replace motors, swapped motors, new trans, bagged a car etc etc but I have never done a frame off. I'm looking for a car to do and I think the C3 is the right car for me. Not saying it will be easy or cheap but it's a car I feel will keep my interest over the months/years and keep me working on it. I've always wanted a C3 but I'm not the type of guy to go by a finished project. My boys are becoming teenagers now and it's something I would like to work on with them to teach them about cars. I'm a habitual modder as I always have something in the garage to work on. Sadly the garage is empty right now so my BMW X5 daily driver has become my victim and everyone know's it's not good to mod your DD.

So my plan is a restomod. A frame off build, LSX, custom interior, smoothed C3. Timeline will depend on the condition of the C3 but hopefully under the 2 year mark.

My question is, what are the pros and cons for the C3 cars? Is there one year better than the next? Are there years I should stay away from?

gerry72

Consistent with your goals, there are no good or bad years in consideration. If you are restomoding everything is on the table including car condition. I suppose all that matters is the pallet from where you want to begin and in that regard it would be only what design features most fit within your end goals. You're not talking about significant differences throughout the years -to include the '77- so just get a car with a solid foundation and begin.

Easy Mike

Buy a copy. Read through it. Pick your favorite.


Model year is a personal choice.

No disrespect, but if you intend to do all the above, what you start with may not matter much.

Regardless of what you choose, you should purchase the best car you can find at the time.

vettebuyer6369

I'm not sure what this means.

The C3s came in chrome bumper cars from 68-72, chrome front/rear rubber bumper in 73 and front rear rubber bumper cars from 73-82.

In any comparison of similar cars, yes the chrome bumper cars of 68-72 will be worth more than the 73-82 cars. I'm not understanding your use of "fiberglas vs plastic."

The bumpers were never plastic and fiberglass is sometimes used as an aftermarket replacement for the original rubber bumpers that warp and crack.

Regarding your other question, if your intention is to completely restomod the car, then year differences are not relevant any more because the cars will not be stock. I'd advise you to simply pick a model design (chrome bumper, big back window, 80-82 front/rear design, etc) as a donor and go from there.

And dont waste money on parts you are going to change out. If you are going to change the engine, dont waste money on a numbers matching engine car. If you are going to update the interior, dont waste money on a car with a nice interior.

C3_ERROR

That's good to know. I assumed with the direction I was going with the car it wouldn't matter much but knowledge is power and I didn't want to go out an buy something without researching and a few questions here and there.

I did notice the later year cars have to gussets/support in the frame but since I am pulling the body off I can add them.

One question I did have is... I noticed a lot of the guys doing the frame off build a body dolly that all look the same. Are there blue prints for this or did everyone just do there best at making something that looks the same?

C3_ERROR

Sorry about that. I typed fiberglass but meant chrome. The part about the plastic is from my C4 research (Was thinking about building a track day car from a C4). Too much going on in my head today.

I've been looking for cars in the $2000.00 to $4000.00 range. Found a few with tranny issues pretty cheap but before I pulled the trigger I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing.

And yes I am staying away from number matching low miles cars for the simple fact that I will feel bad pulling one apart and chopping it up for my needs.

Easy Mike

Dollies look the same because they make use of the body mounts on the body. The mounts and locations are essentially the same for all C3s.

C3_ERROR

Well I guess I can save someone else the trouble and make a blue print with mats and cuts in it while I''m building mine.

Alan 71

Hi C3,
In the $2000 to $4000 range you probably will be buying a pretty needy car…. especially down at $2000.
Cars in that range are often incomplete which could end up being expensive even though you intend to modify it. So take some time to determine what the car may actually need and the cost.
Also, cars at that lower range sometimes have serious rust problems so you should learn how to determine that before you get some car home and you have a few very ugly discoveries.
It's certainly true, and most people agree, that spending more money up front is far wiser than getting 'in' at the lowest price you can find.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

C3_ERROR

There are some pretty good C3's out there for the money in my area.
http://scranton.craigslist.org/cto/4692324261.html
http://scranton.craigslist.org/cto/4666847226.html
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4693698139.html

While I agree with you spending more up front can save money and in fact I am doing that by looking for cars with good bodies and bad motors/trans.

C3_ERROR

BTW I found this for anyone looking for a C3 dolly.

http://s218.photobucket.com/user/Ala...MG-78.jpg.html

dochorsepower

Things to think about. Buy a southwest car with less potential rust problems. Buy a car that is only worn out rather than one that somebody thinks they have fixed. Do you have to pass emissions standards in your area? If you are thinking of convertible, '75 was the last year for C-3's. Get ready to spend lots of money "while you're at it". Now, go out and enjoy, you're burnin' daylight.

Tom73

I am kind of partial to the '73.



The Beauty of '73

"Larry Shinoda, the famous Corvette designer, once commented in an interview that the 1973 was his favorite of the post-1967 era because the front and rear styling were closest to what the stylists originally had in mind when this series was first designed."

(Illustrated Corvette Buyer's Guide by Michael Antonick).

But the bottom line is to buy the best C3 that you can afford.

hwcoop

In my opinion the 69 is the cleanest for body style with the shark vents.. if you are going restomod drop a 69 body on a SRIII chassis with c4-6 suspension and an LSX drivetrain...of course there will be $$$ involved

weider1717

68-69, then 70-72 are the most popular I personally like the 68-69 body style the best but get whatever is in the best condition. I don't mean a pretty paint job either you better be really checking out the frame most of these cars have frames with a lot of rot took me awhile to find one I liked condition wise.

bj1k

I know that you know the difference but there is a typo in your statement that should be corrected . 1973 was only chrome bumper on rear not front . This is only for the benefit of the original poster.

F4Gary

Rule #1 for you should be a sound/rust free frame and birdcage and a no hit body.

After that, I think I'd go with a 73. No wiper door/windshield base trim and more affordable than a 68-72 but still retro looking.

Also, remember that an automatic has the removable tranny crossmember and a 4 speed doesn't in case you want to install a 5 or 6 speed.

A southern car that is still driven is probably sounder than something that has been sitting in a backyard for years.

F22

A lot of good advice here. You have the mechanical experience and that's good, but be forewarned, the interiors are really tough to mod from the factory and there is nearly nowhere to put anything extra in the cockpit of these cars. You should buy a car, with the most complete and best condition interior possible. A C3 with a gutted interior is a big challenge, money wise, assembly wise and otherwise. Nearly every screw, nut and fastener set, is unique to that area. A good example are the door panel screws. You can't substitute them easily, nor even the door handle screws.

Ditto for the engine compartment. Even putting an MSD in these cars is a challenge! We have a shop and we work on a wide variety of vintage American muscle, including Camaro's, Chevelles, Impala's, 'Short and Wides' (early 70's Chevy Short bed pickups), Tri five Chevy's and the C3 Corvettes are the car that presents the most challenges to work on, period. Others may disagree, but our experience has leaned towards that conclusion.

If you gotta have a C3, then go for it, but be aware, it ain't like dealing with any other Chevrolet product and you should know that, before you start.

F22

There is a popular saying here:

"The cheapest C3 Corvette you buy, will be the most expensive project you've ever owned..."

Mike Ward

Frames are pretty much the same strengthwise from '69-'82.