Spare tire tub rivets
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Spare tire tub rivets
I have removed the spare tire tub from under the car and are now removing the paint but in doing so I also drilled out the rivets to remove the brace. Well I ordered new rivets but they look different. Do you have to have a special tool to install these? I don't think my standard rivet gun will work with them.
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#3
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Hi a,
From the wording of your question I'm not sure what rivets you received or what rivets were on the tub that you drilled out.
The original rivets were large flat headed soft aluminum rivets that were 'set' with 'buck'.
Now people use a pneumatic tool or hammer and buck to set them.
Regards,
Alan
From the wording of your question I'm not sure what rivets you received or what rivets were on the tub that you drilled out.
The original rivets were large flat headed soft aluminum rivets that were 'set' with 'buck'.
Now people use a pneumatic tool or hammer and buck to set them.
Regards,
Alan
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hi a,
From the wording of your question I'm not sure what rivets you received or what rivets were on the tub that you drilled out.
The original rivets were large flat headed soft aluminum rivets that were 'set' with 'buck'.
Now people use a pneumatic tool or hammer and buck to set them.
Regards,
Alan
From the wording of your question I'm not sure what rivets you received or what rivets were on the tub that you drilled out.
The original rivets were large flat headed soft aluminum rivets that were 'set' with 'buck'.
Now people use a pneumatic tool or hammer and buck to set them.
Regards,
Alan
#6
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Hi a,
I set the rivets by hand.
I use a 5 lb hammer on the flat head end of the rivet, that's the' buck'.
I use a small rivet set tool and a ball-peen hammer to set the shaft end of the rivet. The tool has a small dome machined into it's end which helps mushroom the shaft of the rivet.
It takes a little practice to know just how long the sift should be (it depends on the thickness of the fiberglass and the steel part that's being joined. The shaft should be long enough to fill the drilled hole as it's compressed and form a nice dome to hold the rivet securely in place.
Ironically I believe the tub strap rivets were set slightly differently but you may not be concerned with that degree of detail.
Here's a couple of pictures.
Regards,
Alan
I set the rivets by hand.
I use a 5 lb hammer on the flat head end of the rivet, that's the' buck'.
I use a small rivet set tool and a ball-peen hammer to set the shaft end of the rivet. The tool has a small dome machined into it's end which helps mushroom the shaft of the rivet.
It takes a little practice to know just how long the sift should be (it depends on the thickness of the fiberglass and the steel part that's being joined. The shaft should be long enough to fill the drilled hole as it's compressed and form a nice dome to hold the rivet securely in place.
Ironically I believe the tub strap rivets were set slightly differently but you may not be concerned with that degree of detail.
Here's a couple of pictures.
Regards,
Alan
#8
Team Owner
Not the best move to remove the rivets. The tub and straps can be cleaned and repainted 'as-is' with a little work in masking for paint.
Re-riveting that assembly can be done with pop-rivets...but it won't be anywhere near as strong as the original assembly.
Re-riveting that assembly can be done with pop-rivets...but it won't be anywhere near as strong as the original assembly.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 05-23-2015 at 09:23 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hi a,
I set the rivets by hand.
I use a 5 lb hammer on the flat head end of the rivet, that's the' buck'.
I use a small rivet set tool and a ball-peen hammer to set the shaft end of the rivet. The tool has a small dome machined into it's end which helps mushroom the shaft of the rivet.
It takes a little practice to know just how long the sift should be (it depends on the thickness of the fiberglass and the steel part that's being joined. The shaft should be long enough to fill the drilled hole as it's compressed and form a nice dome to hold the rivet securely in place.
Ironically I believe the tub strap rivets were set slightly differently but you may not be concerned with that degree of detail.
Here's a couple of pictures.
Regards,
Alan
I set the rivets by hand.
I use a 5 lb hammer on the flat head end of the rivet, that's the' buck'.
I use a small rivet set tool and a ball-peen hammer to set the shaft end of the rivet. The tool has a small dome machined into it's end which helps mushroom the shaft of the rivet.
It takes a little practice to know just how long the sift should be (it depends on the thickness of the fiberglass and the steel part that's being joined. The shaft should be long enough to fill the drilled hole as it's compressed and form a nice dome to hold the rivet securely in place.
Ironically I believe the tub strap rivets were set slightly differently but you may not be concerned with that degree of detail.
Here's a couple of pictures.
Regards,
Alan
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I really didn't want to but was making a huge mess so that's why I did. When I bought the car and was detailing it the tub was in beautiful condition and thought the black paint had wore off from time. So dummy me painted it black and shortly after I learned it was suppose to be raw. Live and learn I guess. I will probably use regular rivets as you said, I don't want to take a chance with a hammer.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Oh another thing and if this bothers anyone please excuse me and I'll start another thread but it's about the spare tire. It's the original one and has not been on the ground, still has the nubbies off the thread. Anyway it has sidewall cracks and being that old I would not trust it so I called Discount Tire about a replacement and they told me no one makes that size anymore. It's a 195/80/D15. Made by Goodyear. What do you guys use for a spare?
#14
Team Owner
Go with the Pop-Rivets. But get steel instead of aluminum....much stronger.
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Hi a,
The drilled out rivet you show is the typical soft aluminum flat headed rivet used many places on the car.
What you replace it with is up to you.
A 215-70-15 tire is the present day equivalent of a F-70-15 tire. There are many manufacturers.
Regards,
Alan
The drilled out rivet you show is the typical soft aluminum flat headed rivet used many places on the car.
What you replace it with is up to you.
A 215-70-15 tire is the present day equivalent of a F-70-15 tire. There are many manufacturers.
Regards,
Alan
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks Alan, that is very helpful. I'll call Discount Tire on Tues and see what they have in that size.
#18
Rivets
Hi A, Alan has shown you the hand tool and here's a picture or 2 of the pneumatic version and one of the bucks. All purchased at harbor freight for about $30. Any choice is a good one. Good luck!
r
Various size bucks and the gun comes with some bits. Need to practice a little with either way you go.
r
Various size bucks and the gun comes with some bits. Need to practice a little with either way you go.
#20
Burning Brakes
Dave
Last edited by Lakeside49; 05-25-2015 at 10:57 PM.