Billsc3

I'm replacing the rear bearing but can it be done with the rotor still on the spindle. i read that I don't have to remove the torque control arm. everything came today but the spacer and shims. time to get started.

'75

Yes it's best to leave the rotor attached to the spindle. The job is easier with the trailing arm removed. Do you have all the set up tools?

Easy Mike

Just curious. Bearing is singular. Are you intending to replace both sides?

Billsc3

I got the tools to do the job. at this time its nerves about getting it right. i didnt get a gauge yet to measure end play

Billsc3

i'm doing the side thats grinding now and the other side later. I have most of tools to do it now.

my 76 ray

There are two bearings on each spindle ... inside and outside ... you could probably replace the inside without removing the spindle but not the outside.

leadfoot4

Do you mean "inner and outer", or both sides of the car??




Just yanking your chain..........






It sounds like this is your first experience with this job. Are you aware of how tightly the rear wheel bearings are pressed on to the spindle??? Just a hint, if you're dealing with an original, never been apart trailing arm assembly, they're NOT a slip fit, like front wheel bearings. There is a special tool made for this operation, but in a pinch, a hydraulic press can be used.

DUB

GOOD LUCK on trying to get the outer bearing off with the rotor still attached when the spindle is out of the trailing arm. I have the special bearing puller and it will not work with the rotor attached. So I always remove the rotors.

DUB

lowbuck72

I used a tool called a spindle knocker. It took so many hits to get that spindle off, I was breathing hard, and muttering obscenities for days, not to mention that mushroomed tool will never be the same... but it did work.

jr73

heres a fair video on what you will be looking at, he fails to use a dial indicator to set up the end play in the bearings but its a good one on how it comes apart.

jr73

also Bill, check out this page. I think its one of the best explained step by steps I've read on how to change those bearings.
http://www.duntovmotors.com/tech-rear-spindle.php

Billsc3

Thanks guys for the advice and the video I got the spindle knockout, bearing puller, set up tool, installation tool and the BFH. My parts all came but the spacer and shims. have to call to find out where they are. Doing one side inner and outer. I got the bearing puller from harbor freight tool it has 2 different size pullers in case, just went to homedepot and pickup 2 5 inch bolts. this should do the trick.

Cavu2u

If we don't want to do-it-yourself, who rebuilds these for us, and where are they (so we can send the assembly to them)?

I know there are a few who do, but would like recommendations.
Thanks.

Steve

'75

You could try the set up with the old shim and spacer to see what the clearance is, might be correct. Be sure to get the clearance right with no grease and then pack them for final assembly, you wont feel as much clearance with the grease in there, but it's still there.

DUB

And I have a 'spindle knocker' also...but pulling the outer bearing off the spindle with the rotor on is another thing entirely.

DUB

dugsgms74

Supposedly there is a bearing puller that fits inside the rotor but never having used one cant tell you how well it works.

DUB

30 years ago I bought the tools that Ecklers offered that were made by Taylor Design. I know I tried to get it to work and it just does not fit...ad I am not going to buy another for the rare case that the owner still wants to keep the rotor riveted on...because the chances that I come across trailing arms that still have rotor riveted on and are still above minimal thickness standards is getting slimmer by the minute.

DUB

jr73

are you saying thats rare to see today? cuz mine were riveted on
what a pain

leadfoot4

Well, yeah. The last C-3s (the 82s) came off the assembly line 33 years ago, and pads/rotors are "wear-out" items. Assuming even minimal driving, many of the surviving C-3s have around 100,000 miles or more. Generally speaking, rotors don't last forever, and/or the rear bearings need to be serviced.

Keep in mind, when these cars were designed/built, the general mind-set was to design a vehicle that lasted 10-12 years and 3-4 owners, then the scrap yard....

Billsc3

the car only has 79 thousand miles on it and the rotors are a little rusty but look find( plenty of meat). i know they will have to be replaced some day just not this week.