alconk

Is there a way to adjust the door where it's flush with the body? It's the rear of the door where it meets the striker. It sticks out a little in the middle but a little inboard at the top. So the door needs to twist outward at the top. I tried adjusting the striker but didn't move the door just made it darn near impossible to shut. The front of the door is nice and wouldn't mess with that. Passenger door is great front and rear. And I've been having window fitment problems and thinking the problem might be in the door fitment.

doorgunner

My '68 project has "guides"....metal wedges about 1/2" wide by 1" long by 1/8" thick on the door itself near the lock assembly and also on the body above the striker/they "match up" when the door is closed....they can be adjusted "inward" a little...maybe you have them on your 19?? car.

Paul L

What tool did you use to loosen the door latch striker? It looks like it would take a large Torx socket.

alconk

Yes it was a T45 or a T50.

alconk

Here are a couple pictures of what Im talking about on my 82'[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1456_zpsp95axwtr.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1458_zpszmtxhvvb.jpg.html][/URL

Paul L

OK, thanks. I don't have one. But I will get one. I need to make a small adjustment.

DUB

What does the other door look like...in the SAME area that you ahve concerns with on the left side????.....This is IMPORTANT!

Has this car been in an accident that you are aware of....if so..... what got damaged???? IMPORTANT!!!!

IS your left door FLUSH with the fender... below the center body line of the door.....at your lower door hinge area???? IMPORTANT!!!!

DUB

alconk

Hi DUB,

The passenger door is perfect and yes the car was in a slight fender bender on the left which they sectioned in a piece up to 10 o'clock and replaced the bumper cover with a fiberglass one. No frame damage whats so ever.

The front of the door is flush all the way down. I did adjust the striker in which brought the center part of the door in but as I thought took the upper part in about 1/4". I was thinking about adding a ship to the top hinge to see if it would bring the top of the door out but concerned that it will do the same to the front of the door.

DUB

'Slight fender bender on the left side'. I have to ask because some people call the rear panel a 'fender' when it is a quarter panel....so which is it the front left fender that was sectioned or the left rear quarter panel????

IF you are flush at the fender and the door hinge areas....you can NOT add a shim. If you do...the door will be further out and no longer be flush.

Unless some damaged occurred to the steel mounting area where the hinges bolt to the door. This would cause the door to now be 'tweaked'.

Not knowing how the 'fender bender' happened....I have had many that when they got it....it fudged up the bird cage mounting on the #2 and #3 mount points...and actually caused the 'B' pillar to get pulled in...thus throwing off how the door fit.

DUB

alconk

It's the front left fender. The day I bought it and driving home from the dealer a 17yr old girl decide to make a hard right turn on a one way street. I was in the right lane and she was in the left. It tore a hole in the corner of the fender and ripped the bumper cover. Didn't do any damage to the bumper absorber but cracked the fiberglass reinforcement behind it. Very minor damage. Was going through a school zone maybe doing 20 mph. She told us she saw one of her friends waving her down. Very upsetting! But was fixed. I'll take a couple more pictures.

alconk

[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1459_zpsixhftxhv.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1462_zpsyxd1ucvl.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1460_zpstdx9wnnk.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1461_zpskrpy37tu.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1465_zpslskjcfwr.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s929.photobucket.com/user/alconk/media/DSCN1466_zpsviyqlqs8.jpg.html][/URL
And the last picture is gap that I'm trying to get rid of.

alconk

Well I finally got the door to fit better by removing two shims on the bottom hinge so I thought I'd be able to get the glass to fit better. Wrong.. I fussed with the driver's glass for about 2 hours and still can't get rid of my gap. So can there be other issues causing my gap? Worn out regulator, glass hardware ect? I'm a pretty patient man when it comes with mechanical items but this has me about to put the car up for sale and call it quits..

bj1k

I wouldn't worry about it if that's all it is. These cars were never a good fit from the factory. The only way to get a good fit is to build out the problem areas if they are low and repaint

DUB

After our phone conversation.....I see how the door glass is setting at where the A-pillar and T-top w/s meet.

The front stop needs to come up...which means that the horizontal track for the regulator may need tweaking like I mentioned when we talked.

Compare your other side to it when you adjust it. And like I mentioned to you...as you know....IF you raise the front stop and causes the glass to get into a kilter that NOW causes it to be 'out-of whack'....then it can be as like I mentioned.....something that you will ahve to find a happy medium on.

AND YES....I see how you 'might' need to get the glass to go back to the rear a bit further by routing the holes in the front track to the rear a little bit.

It is really hard to tell you ACTUALLY what to do by this one photo...but after talking with you...and knowing what you have done. Routing may be required.

DUB

alconk

DUB I want to personally thank you again for your help in assisting me to get my window adjustment better. I learned a ton of info by speaking with you and your knowledge is just overwhelming. It just means so much for you to take time out of there busy schedule to call me back and help. Thanks again DUB!! You're the man!