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At this point, I am fearful my paint will stick at all. Besides using laundered towels to rinse with water, exposure to all the pollen in Oklahoma and driving her (minimally) with bare fiberglass.
DO I need to spray the bare fiberglass with a primer? Not sure how much longer before we get the rest of the car completely stripped???
Before paint can the entire body be wiped down with acetone? We have worked very hard to get every last bit of red oxide primer off.
At this point, I am fearful my paint will stick at all. Besides using laundered towels to rinse with water, exposure to all the pollen in Oklahoma and driving her (minimally) with bare fiberglass.
DO I need to spray the bare fiberglass with a primer? Not sure how much longer before we get the rest of the car completely stripped???
Before paint can the entire body be wiped down with acetone? We have worked very hard to get every last bit of red oxide primer off.
The bare fiberglass should have a primer but I'm not in a position to recommend any to you.
Acetone will remove some of the fiberglass resin so I wouldn't use that. There are products made specifically for wiping the car down before paint. I went to buy some a few days ago and was waiting for them to find it on their computer when I looked at the can and saw it said "Not for use on fiberglass". The autobody supply places will probably assume you're working on a metal car so you want to get cleaner safe for use with fiberglass. They asked me if I needed a cleaner with "a lot of zip". I said no and they gave me a water based cleaner. I took that home and wiped down a couple of areas on my car but was concerned by the soapy look of the product. I took it back and they gave me a more expensive solvent based cleaner made by Sikkens that is actually made specifically for fiberglass and plastic. I'm happy with that so far.
For whatever this may be worth....to those who care to get my opinion on this.
First off ...acetone is not going to remove any resin out of the fiberglass that has been cured. Acetone WILL thin resins and gelcoat along with many other products...but acetone by itself will NOT damage fiberglass when it is wiped with it.
The reason know this that in some of my mixing bucket that I use to hold my resins...I can pour acetone in it and let it sit and it does nothing to the cured resin. It does not liquefy or soften it to any major degree...and that is me allowing it to just sit in the bucket. SO...wiping it with acetone will not hurt the body.
What needs to be addressed here is that there are many products that can be used to wipe a body panel down prior to priming/painting. Some are water based due to the panel may be a urethane plastic which DOES NOT like a solvent wiped on it if it is RAW urethane. Metal bodies can take a different prep solvents due to it being metal...bare fiberglass and SMC and bare body filler....in my opinion ....take acetone...IF I even use it at all right before I apply my FIRST coat of gelcoat, epoxy primer,etc..which depends on what I am applying it on.
Nicole,
I do not want to make you paranoid that you might have an issue. All I am trying to do is make you aware of the possible problems that CAN occur.
SO...for what it is worth.....I will work on a body for a long time here in my shop and it is exposed...BUT....I am really cautious on what goes on in my shop due to I do all facets of Corvette repairs. SO...If I have raw fiberglass bodies around and I am installing an engine and breaking in the cam...I cover the bodies with the plastic masking bags that body shop supply houses have....or I pull the Corvette outside so I can crank it up and break in the cam outside. I DO NOT spay any products like WD-40 or anything remotely like that in the shop UNLESS I have protected the bare bodies on the body work stage. Actually...I have gotten myself in a habit of taking any product that I know I may need to spray outside or take the product outside and spray it into a small cup and apply it with the syringes I have or Q-tips. When it is summer time and I have my exhaust fans on...I also freak out when a roll-back is dropping a car off an the diesel fumes get pulled into the shop. Anything I can do to put the odds in my favor is what I do. And that goes as far as telling people who come in and look around to NOT TOUCH ANYTHING!! I know the body is drawing them to it like metal to a magnet. SO....DO NOT TOUCH my work with your nasty hands...and by nasty I mean hands that are not like mine that are all dried out and basically have no oils coming off of them. And that also goes for panels that are primed and sanded and ready to be wiped down and painted. I KNOW I have to wipe it down...but I do not need any surprised because an unknown foreign substance ( aloe vera skin conditioner, 'Oil of Olay' or that grease from that fried chicken they just ate or any other stuff out there that people put on their hands...including their hands being in their pockets and are all damp and sweaty) has now been put on my panel and now I have to really work to get it off so when I shoot my sealer I do not have fisheyes.
And for what it is worth...wax and grease removers DO NOT work on water soluble contaminates. So if a sweaty hand has touched a panel and leaves a mark (stain)..you can wipe it till the cows come home and the stain will remain. That is when if it was done on primer...the area will need to be washed off with soap and rinsed well and THEN be wiped down....or scuff it with your wet sand paper to get it off and clean it after that.
SO... you do not have to prime it....but it depends on your environment you are working in and if you can keep it safe from the 'elements'.
Even while sanding, we wear gloves, but we had to lean in to remove something and "skin grease" from my hubby's forehead got on the glass. I immediately wiped it with a paper towel with acetone and the fiberglass looks normal now.
We keep it covered in the garage, but like you said, I had no idea we were doing wrong driving it. Assumed it would be ok for awhile since we do most of the sanding and bodywork in the sunlight, was not taking into account other things from the road/engine etc, getting onto the bare glass.
Just want to prep the glass appropriately now to remove anything that will affect the paint. Will epoxy base coats help with promote adhesion?
Hear horror stories of oil spilled on bare glass and they still get a good paint job. Fingers crossed we have not crossed into the "no return zone".
Acetone will quickly remove hardened fiberglass resin from my hands.
YES...but that is from your hands because the acetone is getting between your skin and the resin that is hardening up..and that also is taking into account the natural skin oils in your hands. But IF the resin is fully cured the acetone will not dissolve it...or soften it or liquefy it.
And if you have fully cured resin on your hands after laminating...for what it is worth...the mix is too hot (too much hardener)...thus curing way too fast.
Originally Posted by c1nicole
Dub,
Will epoxy base coats help with preventing adhesion?
I am not understanding what you are asking. Please elaborate.
Epoxy primer usually AIDS in adhesion...but ONLY if it is applied on a substrate that is clean and will allow for its maximum adhesion qualities. I use epoxy primer in certain areas of a car like yours.
I am not understanding what you are asking. Please elaborate.
Epoxy primer usually AIDS in adhesion...but ONLY if it is applied on a substrate that is clean and will allow for its maximum adhesion qualities. I use epoxy primer in certain areas of a car like yours.
DUB[/QUOTE]
3 nights going on very little sleep, BRONCHITIS!! No wonder you are confused DUB, that is not what I mean to say, "promote" adhesion is what I meant. Wondered if there were areas that may have small amounts of whatever, the epoxy helps prevent the paint from lifting.
Sorry for my air-headed statement. I knew what I meant to say, can't you read my mind DUB?
Been watching this thread mostly cheering you on silently. I can say that bronchitis SUCKS. I think it was the only time that I think dying would be preferable outcome.
Been watching this thread mostly cheering you on silently. I can say that bronchitis SUCKS. I think it was the only time that I think dying would be preferable outcome.
Thanks for cheering me on!! I'll take all the positive vibes anyone wants to send.
You are so right! I've coughed till I thought my eyes were going to pop off. Totally exhausted but laying down just makes you cough worse. Going on 2 weeks and SO ready to be done!
In my opinion....you are not an 'air-head'. And being under the weather would effect anybody...so no worries.
I was just checking because I though it was a mental competency test....you know...kinda like a 'trick question' that has no answer.
I thought I kinda did 'read your mind'...because I kinda thought you had it backwards.
YES...epoxy primer does aid in a corrosion inhibitor and also adhesion in regards to what is applied on top of the epoxy primer. I use epoxy primer on the steel parts of the car but not so much on the fiberglass.
All I can say and I will try to keep this short...but if you and Tim want the full low-down on it...we need to talk. But when a person takes their profession seriously and they strive to employ methods that are above and beyond the normal accepted procedures....this is generally due to realizing that if they are super picky on how the surface is prepped for a raw urethane bumper (for example) ...then that that intense scrutiny then migrates to ALL areas of the car. And before that person know it...they have taken their procedures and practices to a level that has proven to them that what they are doing is not causing for a problem. And when that person has decades of cars out on the road that come in and can be inspected and checked out...it further confirms that the practices and procedures do not need to be changed. SO...even though many of the cars I did 20+ years ago are still looking good...I can 'see' things that I know would not be there if I had only employed the practices I am currently doing now. But knowing I can not turn back time....it is what it is. And those 'things' I am seeing are not huge 'deal breakers' and making the car look crappy...it is just me knowing what I am looking for and expecting a certain standard.
Since I had such a lousy experience "attempting" to remove the wind shield wiper door, I wanted to see what the best plan of attack would be to take off and strip this? No surprise, lots of over spray from Bubba here too. IF anyone (Alan) has a picture of a 68' convertible correct colors for all the hardware under here, I would appreciate the share!
I also worked on some of the fiberglass repairs, call me crazy, but I love the smell of the resin, brings back memories of helping Dad in the garage.
I do know that the painted parts that you are seeing are correct. GM painted all that stuff after it was mounted and adjusted.
I do know that the latches and linkages for the convertible top rear securing points were installed AFTER it was painted so you will not see paint on them. Also...on the side of your raised deck lid...you see the wedges that are held to ti with two Phillips screws allow you to shim them and get the deck lid to fit snugly when closed. These wedges are also installed after it was painted...if I am not mistaken.
Hopefully Alan will post a photo if you are wanting it factory correct.
I generally strip them all down and paint them individually so they are not body color...so when the deck is raised...there is a contrast....but that is just me and often times what the customer wants anyway. I have painted them like GM did for those who want that also.
AS for your wiper door....hopefully you are not trying to take the four bolts out that hold the wiper door to the mechanism. It is best to take the entire mechanism out and that way you can deal with the bolts due to they do LOVE to break off...but there are ways to get them out. (hopefully) without breaking. I can have several hours in getting them out without snapping off.
If you run into another snag on that...you or Tim can call me if you choose.
Hi c1n,
You should take a good look at what you presently have to see what parts might be a guide to what was painted body color.
What parts of the lid mechanism were painted body color changed to some degree as the years went by.
Certainly the hinges and springs were in place and were painted body color.
The deck lid release levers were in place are painted too.
The lock control cables, and their hardware are unpainted.
The rubber bumpers are natural black, the bumper brackets and rear bow lock assemblies and their rods are unpainted.
You might use Paul74's lid as a guide for the hardware.
Regards,
Alan
Hopefully Alan will post a photo if you are wanting it factory correct.
I generally strip them all down and paint them individually so they are not body color...so when the deck is raised...there is a contrast....but that is just me and often times what the customer wants anyway. I have painted them like GM did for those who want that also.
AS for your wiper door....hopefully you are not trying to take the four bolts out that hold the wiper door to the mechanism. It is best to take the entire mechanism out and that way you can deal with the bolts due to they do LOVE to break off...but there are ways to get them out. (hopefully) without breaking. I can have several hours in getting them out without snapping off.
If you run into another snag on that...you or Tim can call me if you choose.
DUB
I have seen them black and not the color of the car, did not realize all the bolts and the cable were sprayed the color of the car; white. I think I prefer it in black, but can decide later. Just like the vents on the deck lid, we finally have then sanded inside, which was NOT easy, and have seen Alan post pictures of them black inside, while others on the thread paint the color of the car? Difference between NCRS and resto-Mod?
We posted on another thread on CF, we broke 2 of the bolts on the windshield wiper door that we need to deal with, as a result, the other side has been left alone. At some point we will take it off and decide to send it off for repair or try to DIY it.
I swear, every time we try to do something SEEMINGLY simple, it opens a bag of worms and one simple thing, like removing a bolt, turns into more repairs and more $$$. This endeavor is not an activity for the easily frustrated.
Hi c1n,
You should take a good look at what you presently have to see what parts might be a guide to what was painted body color.
What parts of the lid mechanism were painted body color changed to some degree as the years went by.
Certainly the hinges and springs were in place and were painted body color.
The deck lid release levers were in place are painted too.
The lock control cables, and their hardware are unpainted.
The rubber bumpers are natural black, the bumper brackets and rear bow lock assemblies and their rods are unpainted.
You might use Paul74's lid as a guide for the hardware.
Regards,
Alan
Thank you Alan,
It appears I have items missing. Not sure how my deck lid opens, it appears that I am missing the rear rod?
I have Zero desire to take out the springs at this time. Can I (FINGERS crossed) easily remove the deck lid by removing the hinge bolts and not disrupting the springs? I have marked the location of the hinges by etching around them with a fine file.
Here is a pic of how I did mine. I know that I will lose a couple of judging points for not spraying the latches and release arms body color, but after having them replated, I just couldnt bring myself to overspray them red as the factory did. Also note that I had not installed a clamp and bolt on each side for the latch rod, you can see where the captured nut is for them to go. I have since cleaned up the wax and polish and installed the decklid weatherstripping, and repainted the decklid mounting bolts body color.
The restoration road is long and rocky, just keep at it.
bigredbrad
Last edited by bigredbrad; 04-02-2017 at 08:24 PM.
Here is a pic of how I did mine. I know that I will lose a couple of judging points for not spraying the latches and release arms body color, but after having them replated, I just couldnt bring myself to overspray them red as the factory did. Also note that I had not installed a clamp and bolt on each side for the latch rod, you can see where the captured nut is for them to go. I have since cleaned up the wax and polish and installed the decklid weatherstripping, and repainted the decklid mounting bolts body color.
The restoration road is long and rocky, just keep at it.
bigredbrad
That looks amazing! After looking in my AM, I am missing more than the rods. To lock the convertible top down, we reached back, in a very awkward position to put a wingnut on a bolt. I guess that would be the purpose of the rod and mechanisms WE DID not have to release the convertible top. I'll be looking for those on Ebay or CF!!
I am missing the lid latch, we secured the convertible top in place with wing nuts, not a fun process (Gumbo body positioning required). Can I assume (bought the car without this and knew no different till now) that this was what released the convertible top to store. The wing nuts were a bubba fix?
Also discovered we have no interior lights, none at the kick panel or near the deck lid springs, I pray the wiring is still there. AHHHH, a "to-do" list that is ever growing.
I remembered there was a box of random parts that came with our car. Are any of these 3 latches the ones that are missing? Why would they have put a bolt and wing nut in place of the lid latch?
03-25-2017, 07:14 PM
Besides using laundered towels to rinse with water, exposure to all the pollen in Oklahoma and driving her (minimally) with bare fiberglass. 
Assumed it would be ok for awhile since we do most of the sanding and bodywork in the sunlight, was not taking into account other things from the road/engine etc, getting onto the bare glass. 
