LT-1 1972 in Switzerland !
#1
LT-1 1972 in Switzerland !
Hello,
I've found a LT-1 1972 Coupe A/C right here in Switzerland. It has plenty of options.
The car has passed our State control in 2016, so I'm relatively confident that the frame has no rust issues...
What do you think about this car and of what I must be careful during inpection (planned on Thuesday) ?
I've seen that the vaccum system is fragile ?
Other points ?
Thank in advance.
Options :
True LT1 (seller tell...) VIN: 1Z37 L 2S509989
Motor Code CKY 350 cid 255 HP
Blue interior Code 412
White exterior Code 972 Classic White
Tilt – Telescopic Steering Column N37
Power Brake J50
A/C C60
Power Steering N40
Three Point Seat Belts AV3
Transmission matching.
I've found a LT-1 1972 Coupe A/C right here in Switzerland. It has plenty of options.
The car has passed our State control in 2016, so I'm relatively confident that the frame has no rust issues...
What do you think about this car and of what I must be careful during inpection (planned on Thuesday) ?
I've seen that the vaccum system is fragile ?
Other points ?
Thank in advance.
Options :
True LT1 (seller tell...) VIN: 1Z37 L 2S509989
Motor Code CKY 350 cid 255 HP
Blue interior Code 412
White exterior Code 972 Classic White
Tilt – Telescopic Steering Column N37
Power Brake J50
A/C C60
Power Steering N40
Three Point Seat Belts AV3
Transmission matching.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi Chris,
Close to home!
That simplifies things for you!
What milage is showing on the odometer?
How long has this car been in Sweden?
Can you contact the previous owner? Is the car's history available to you… how it got to Sweden?
72 LT-! cars with air conditioning are really quite rare!
Is this car being touted as as an original LT-! a/c car?
The vin tag is unreadable in the photo…. what's it like first hand? It looks like work has been done on or around the tag which can be an indication of rust repair in the windshield frame.
The ripples in the frame rail forward of the #1 body mount seem to indicate the frame MAY have needed to be straightened at some point in this car's life.
It would be good to see the engine stamp pad with the paint removed.
This LT-! car originally has an AIR Emissions Control System on it which appears to now be missing.
To my eye the paint job seems to be quite new….. has the car been painted recently?
It would look nice if the hood stripe was put back on.
Regards,
Alan
Close to home!
That simplifies things for you!
What milage is showing on the odometer?
How long has this car been in Sweden?
Can you contact the previous owner? Is the car's history available to you… how it got to Sweden?
72 LT-! cars with air conditioning are really quite rare!
Is this car being touted as as an original LT-! a/c car?
The vin tag is unreadable in the photo…. what's it like first hand? It looks like work has been done on or around the tag which can be an indication of rust repair in the windshield frame.
The ripples in the frame rail forward of the #1 body mount seem to indicate the frame MAY have needed to be straightened at some point in this car's life.
It would be good to see the engine stamp pad with the paint removed.
This LT-! car originally has an AIR Emissions Control System on it which appears to now be missing.
To my eye the paint job seems to be quite new….. has the car been painted recently?
It would look nice if the hood stripe was put back on.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 12-06-2016 at 02:16 PM.
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
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#4
Instructor
As ALAN71 mentioned 72 LT-1's with Air Conditioning are RARE! Great find!
What you have provided us is a very nice driver corvette. Everything looks to be present, and it appears to have been well kept to the original condition. The later model C3 wheels have been installed and the louvers were not painted, as well as the LT-1 hood stripe which should be present. Also, I can see a USB adapter in the passenger side by the radio, which would indicate that it has been replaced, however the rest of the interior looks fairly original. There are also some engine compartment pieces which are missing (happens over time) but it looks like most of the vacuum lines are original, although the clamps have been changed for modern clamps and the decal on the firewall is present (should match an LT-1 as well).
I can't see the trim tab clearly, but ensure that the date code on the upper right is AFTER the date codes of the mechanical components. It looks like a "T" to me which would indicate a December of 1971 build.
Check the following:
Documentation!!!! Whatever the seller has, request a copy!
VIN Tab - Closely examine the vin tab on the birdcage, it looks like it has been painted over. This is a-typical with most corvette's unless there has been previous work in that area.
Engine Stamp - Closely examine the broaching of the metal if you can. If it is inconsistent then it could be a re-stamp. The partial vin and CKY should be correct with the stamps used in 1972 (sometimes they use the wrong "9" or "4" stamp and it is obvious when compared to original stamps).
Speedometer/Tachometer - Check the styling of these, I can't tell from the pictures but they look like they might be from a 74-76 corvette. Also check the tachometer redline-5,600 RPM!
Here are some part numbers if you are interested which are correct to the 72 LT-1 listed above:
Block Casting Number - Should be 3970010 (late model 72's have 3970014)
Intake Manifold - 3959594
Exhaust Manifold - 3932461/3932461
Carburetor - Holley 4150 R6239A - 3999263
Starter Motor - 1108418
Alternator - 1100544 (All vette's w/ AC)
Distributor - 1112101
Overall, looks like a great Swiss Vette! Let us know what you think upon inspection!
What you have provided us is a very nice driver corvette. Everything looks to be present, and it appears to have been well kept to the original condition. The later model C3 wheels have been installed and the louvers were not painted, as well as the LT-1 hood stripe which should be present. Also, I can see a USB adapter in the passenger side by the radio, which would indicate that it has been replaced, however the rest of the interior looks fairly original. There are also some engine compartment pieces which are missing (happens over time) but it looks like most of the vacuum lines are original, although the clamps have been changed for modern clamps and the decal on the firewall is present (should match an LT-1 as well).
I can't see the trim tab clearly, but ensure that the date code on the upper right is AFTER the date codes of the mechanical components. It looks like a "T" to me which would indicate a December of 1971 build.
Check the following:
Documentation!!!! Whatever the seller has, request a copy!
VIN Tab - Closely examine the vin tab on the birdcage, it looks like it has been painted over. This is a-typical with most corvette's unless there has been previous work in that area.
Engine Stamp - Closely examine the broaching of the metal if you can. If it is inconsistent then it could be a re-stamp. The partial vin and CKY should be correct with the stamps used in 1972 (sometimes they use the wrong "9" or "4" stamp and it is obvious when compared to original stamps).
Speedometer/Tachometer - Check the styling of these, I can't tell from the pictures but they look like they might be from a 74-76 corvette. Also check the tachometer redline-5,600 RPM!
Here are some part numbers if you are interested which are correct to the 72 LT-1 listed above:
Block Casting Number - Should be 3970010 (late model 72's have 3970014)
Intake Manifold - 3959594
Exhaust Manifold - 3932461/3932461
Carburetor - Holley 4150 R6239A - 3999263
Starter Motor - 1108418
Alternator - 1100544 (All vette's w/ AC)
Distributor - 1112101
Overall, looks like a great Swiss Vette! Let us know what you think upon inspection!
Last edited by Swimtexan; 12-07-2016 at 02:14 PM.
#5
Team Owner
Great looking car! Enjoy the journey....
#6
Melting Slicks
A better view of the stamp pad without the paint would be great... If that is done DO NOT scrape the pad as you will damage surface detail used to authenticate it. lacquer thinner, a cloth, and a little bit of time should do the trick.
A view of the transmission stamp would also be of great help.
Tachometer should have the lower 5600 rpm redline used with the C-60 optioned LT-1s.
All of those items aside, it's most likely not a real C-60 equipped LT-1 Corvette from what I see.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
A view of the transmission stamp would also be of great help.
Tachometer should have the lower 5600 rpm redline used with the C-60 optioned LT-1s.
All of those items aside, it's most likely not a real C-60 equipped LT-1 Corvette from what I see.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
#7
To all : THANK YOU :-)
This forum is the best I ever know !
I'll check all the things you told me. One thing I've missed : asked price is CHF 42'500 ($ 42'000)...and to Alan : yes, I'm from Switzerland (banks, chocolates and watches) and not from Sweden ;-) (there is about 1'500 miles between to countries).
I will try to scratch the engine pad with steelwool and at least take some better pictures of it (it could not difficult to do....).
One question about tachometer : I've read it must have a 5'600 rpm with A/C instead of 6'500 (to "discourage high rpm" according Black book)
Thank you also for all numbers : I will check them.
@ Rowdy rat : You really think it is not a real C60 car or it depends of tachometer reading? I guess it is impossible to see the tachometer on the pictures ?
I give you feedback Thuesday after my inspection : your comments will be very valuable to decide if I'll take the car.
Regards.
Christian
This forum is the best I ever know !
I'll check all the things you told me. One thing I've missed : asked price is CHF 42'500 ($ 42'000)...and to Alan : yes, I'm from Switzerland (banks, chocolates and watches) and not from Sweden ;-) (there is about 1'500 miles between to countries).
I will try to scratch the engine pad with steelwool and at least take some better pictures of it (it could not difficult to do....).
One question about tachometer : I've read it must have a 5'600 rpm with A/C instead of 6'500 (to "discourage high rpm" according Black book)
Thank you also for all numbers : I will check them.
@ Rowdy rat : You really think it is not a real C60 car or it depends of tachometer reading? I guess it is impossible to see the tachometer on the pictures ?
I give you feedback Thuesday after my inspection : your comments will be very valuable to decide if I'll take the car.
Regards.
Christian
Last edited by chris383; 12-06-2016 at 04:12 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
First, welcome to the forum!
I would advise against using steel wool (or any type of sanding or scraping tool). You do not want to use anything that will physically affect the pad surface. There are machine marks on that pad that can give us an idea as to whether the information on the pad is original or not. Again, I would suggest lacquer thinner as the best method to remove the paint. You may get some push back from the dealer selling the car... If so, it might be wise to search for another car. I wouldn't purchase any vintage Chevy without being able to see a clean pad.
One question about tachometer : I've read it must have a 5'600 rpm with A/C instead of 6'500 (to "discourage high rpm" according Black book)
@ Rowdy rat : You really think it is not a real C60 car or it depends of tachometer reading? I guess it is impossible to see the tachometer on the pictures ?
I give you feedback Thuesday after my inspection : your comments will be very valuable to decide if I'll take the car.
Regards,
Stan
#10
Hi stan,
Thank you to welcome me. I'm a regular participant on C2 Forum, but I'm new in C3 section !
Ok, I will try to do my job for checking all the numbers I can do to check originality.
You must know that $ 42'000 for a C3 chrome bumpers in Switzerland is not very high : they are more from 50'000 CHF to 100'000 CHF and more !
Christian
Thank you to welcome me. I'm a regular participant on C2 Forum, but I'm new in C3 section !
Ok, I will try to do my job for checking all the numbers I can do to check originality.
You must know that $ 42'000 for a C3 chrome bumpers in Switzerland is not very high : they are more from 50'000 CHF to 100'000 CHF and more !
Christian
#11
Drifting
Don't let the fresh spray can restoration of the frame fool you....Get in there and inspect it closely...This car looks to be at a dealership so insist on getting it up on a lift and spend some time poking around the frame with a screwdriver....A look behind the kick panels and pillar molding would be nice as well.
Good luck....
Brian
Good luck....
Brian
#12
Melting Slicks
info on LT-1
I have a 72 LT-1 project I am working on which has original engine/4sp and likely rear. There is a guy named Drew Papsun which keep a list of LT-1's I think. You might want to contact him. I see him on here from time to time. I also believe there is a very extensive knowledge base on this forum and some of them have already given you some great feedback.
Here is a list of LT-1 attributes I copied and saved from this forum. Nice Corvette you are considering. Key, IMHO, is to know what the Corvette actually and really is and pay fair market price. You might considering employing a known expert to examine the Corvette in person and I like completed ebay auctions and Mechum to get a sense of what the range of market prices might be. Having said that, the market is likely different at your location, so you might not have a lot of market data points to choose from.
Good luck and hope the below might help:
(It will be fun to look in any event!)
Here is a great list I saved from a posting here:
There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no piticular order.
1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C
2nd. Emmission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.
3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)
4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC
5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.
6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passanger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.
7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).
9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.
If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.
Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.
10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.
11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.
Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.
12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.
13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20
And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear
M20 3:36 Economy
3:55 Standard
3:70 Performance
M21 / M22
3:55 Economy
3:70 Standard
4:11 Performance
14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalouges sell the twist in cap style.
15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.
16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.
17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6"
That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.
So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.
Sounds like a very nice Corvette, if you decide to pass, please post a picture! Even if a "fake" LT-1, it might be a great deal if priced accordingly. IMHO, the key is to pay fair market price for what it actually is!
Here is a list of LT-1 attributes I copied and saved from this forum. Nice Corvette you are considering. Key, IMHO, is to know what the Corvette actually and really is and pay fair market price. You might considering employing a known expert to examine the Corvette in person and I like completed ebay auctions and Mechum to get a sense of what the range of market prices might be. Having said that, the market is likely different at your location, so you might not have a lot of market data points to choose from.
Good luck and hope the below might help:
(It will be fun to look in any event!)
Here is a great list I saved from a posting here:
There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no piticular order.
1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C
2nd. Emmission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.
3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)
4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC
5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.
6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passanger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.
7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).
9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.
If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.
Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.
10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.
11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.
Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.
12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.
13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20
And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear
M20 3:36 Economy
3:55 Standard
3:70 Performance
M21 / M22
3:55 Economy
3:70 Standard
4:11 Performance
14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalouges sell the twist in cap style.
15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.
16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.
17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6"
That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.
So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.
Sounds like a very nice Corvette, if you decide to pass, please post a picture! Even if a "fake" LT-1, it might be a great deal if priced accordingly. IMHO, the key is to pay fair market price for what it actually is!
Last edited by 20mercury; 12-06-2016 at 05:03 PM.
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LT1M21Vette (12-11-2016)
#13
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2006
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
20Mercury mentioned the Transistor ignition system. Here are the three holes he referenced. Sorry, I sent the amplifier and system out for overhaul, so I don't have a photo of it installed.
Not a great photo, best I can do on short notice.
The amplifier should look like this (I 'stole' the photo)
Nice looking car, hope it works out. Switzerland is a wonderful place to drive!
Not a great photo, best I can do on short notice.
The amplifier should look like this (I 'stole' the photo)
Nice looking car, hope it works out. Switzerland is a wonderful place to drive!
#14
Team Owner
To the U.S. 'experts':
I don't recall the OP asking anyone for their advice on 'authenticity'. As I recall, he wanted to share with us the purchase of a really nice conditioned '72 Corvette coupe. How about leaving it at that?
I don't recall the OP asking anyone for their advice on 'authenticity'. As I recall, he wanted to share with us the purchase of a really nice conditioned '72 Corvette coupe. How about leaving it at that?
#16
Melting Slicks
Regards,
Stan
#17
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2005
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Why is the VIN stamped on the frame behind the front wheel? Was this done on Export vehicles or Switzerland requires this on imported vehicles?
Last edited by Revi; 12-07-2016 at 09:24 AM.
#19
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#20
I don't know from where is this stamping...I'll ask the seller Tomorrow!
@ Ed Harrow : I think there is no TI ignition on 72 LT-1...hopefully ;-) :
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
@ Ed Harrow : I think there is no TI ignition on 72 LT-1...hopefully ;-) :
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
Last edited by chris383; 12-07-2016 at 11:48 AM.