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I have tried reading forum re above and googled but found no definite answer. I bought the major rebuild kit and rebuilt my 4 speed shifter because the lockout did not work. Still does not. It seems to me the pin going thru the shifter isn't long enough or whatever plate it is supposed to hit it doesn't? I can't find a picture of the actual plate although Wilcox did post in another thread of the screw that is welded to the bracket. I can't see where the rod goes in picture? Is there an adjustment I have to make or does the weld have to come off and adjust screw?
Any help would be appreciated or I will take it out again and take a closer look.
Further to above I took the shifter out again. I found that the fork on the shifter handle was out of the cogs on the 1/2, 34 linkages. I also measured the rod for lookout and found to be 8 5/8 in. It is short of the screw to work by 3/4 of and inch or 1 inch. Thinking this kit is for a different year as I need the rod to be 9 1/4 in? Put it back in the car and somehow the cog that I put back in the grooves came out and now I am stuck with reverse only. I will have to take all the shift rods off and see if I can get the fork back in where it belongs. I am getting sick of taking it in and out.
gary
Last edited by henrikse; 02-26-2017 at 05:11 PM.
Reason: took out and tried again
Hi H,
I just measured the rod on my 71's shifter.
The overall length is 8-1/8" NOT including the 'pin' at the top that gets 'crimped' to hold it in place.
The rod extends 6-3/8" below the T handle.
Regards,
Alan
There are semi-circle depressions on the bottom of the shifter, If these depressions are lined-up, the shifter will be in the "neutral" position. Then, when the trans is also in the neutral gear position, the shift control rods can be adjusted in length to fit both the trans and shifter. I painted the depressions white so that they could be easily seen when the shifter is installed in the car. Shifter with depressions lined-up, trans in neutral and rods attached will align everything properly. I never could get the flat metal alignment tool inserted into the shifter!
Alan
Same as mine exactly. But when I have it in the handle with spring and ball on top it does not protrude out the bottom of handle. Its farthest end is 1/8 of an inch inside handle so I think it needs to be an inch longer to protrude out and stop handle on screw welded to case. That way when I pull it up it will release lockout.
maybe I am wrong about where this rod is supposed to go to or there is something missing on my shifter
Yes it fits in the groove all the way and shaft still doesn't protrude. Even with spring and ball tightened all the way down no diff. As you know spring only for tension pulling up.
Thanks for the replies! I'm tempted to cut inch off old shaft and weld on new and the way I see it should fix lockout. There is room between screw welded on side of shifter for this rod to fit and would prevent going to reverse until I pull it up.
Only mystery is why my shifter appears to be one inch too long. The engine in my 73 is not original but a 4 bolt main out of 73 chevelle according to my research so maybe trans is out of same. Oi will see if I can find numbers to see? I don't know if they would change shaft length from car to car?
Alan
It looks like mine. I think I've solved this dilemna. I sent the measurements to Corvette Central where I bought the rebuild kit and Kyle there tells me there are the following sizes by year.
64-67 7.5 inches
68-76 8.5 inches
77-81 9.5 inches
So mine is a 77-81
Thanks for your help.
Gary
02-26-2017, 01:30 PM
muncie reverse lockout
