Can't remove rear shock mount.
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Can't remove rear shock mount.
I've soaked all areas with pb blaster for a couple days, removed the shock, placed the crown nut at the end of the shock mount, and used an impact hammer against the crown nut so as to not damage the threads. I've also used a 2 lb. hammer at the same end and also used a pipe wrench on the "L" shaped end and applied enough force that I thought it was about to break and the shock mount will not budge. Any advise as to how to remove them.
#2
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2001
Location: North Easton Mass
Posts: 4,883
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I've soaked all areas with pb blaster for a couple days, removed the shock, placed the crown nut at the end of the shock mount, and used an impact hammer against the crown nut so as to not damage the threads. I've also used a 2 lb. hammer at the same end and also used a pipe wrench on the "L" shaped end and applied enough force that I thought it was about to break and the shock mount will not budge. Any advise as to how to remove them.
DO NOT continue to try to move the L-shaped side. The shock mount has a flat side so the hole isn't round. You can damage the ears if you round the hole.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
Rick B.
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Based on the picture I see why I shouldn't rotate the "L" shaped end, thanks.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
Last edited by Maymyvetteliveforevr; 08-26-2010 at 09:18 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
I pounded on my 1980 and ended up breaking one of the ears off, so be careful. I also soaked mine with PB blaster for several days. When I did get it off (broken ear) the interior was still DRY.
I don't know if this will work, but here is a suggestion: put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
I don't know if this will work, but here is a suggestion: put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
#7
Thoroughly clean it and the housing .
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
#8
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2001
Location: North Easton Mass
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Based on the picture I see why I shouldn't rotate the "L" shaped end, thanks.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
Chances are that the shock mount will either get its threads ruined or the shaft will be so rusty that you won't want to re-use it so you could just get a SawzAll and cut it out.
Another option is to cut off the torque rods near the shock mount, remove the trailing arms, and send them to Van Steel to either rebuild or exchange for rebuilt arms. That's what I did after destroying one shock mount.
Rick B.
#9
Race Director
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.
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leigh1322 (04-30-2020)
#10
Safety Car
Thread Starter
put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
Thoroughly clean it and the housing .
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
I start with a driver attached to my muffler gun turned down on low.
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.
#12
Burning Brakes
#13
Race Director
If its a California car the BMFH will probably work but if its seen salt and snow ( like most of the cars I work on) the BMFH is risky.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
Last edited by ...Roger...; 08-27-2010 at 09:35 AM.
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The tool isn't the problem, breaking the ears off is, so I hesitate in trying this method.
I prefer not to cut the strut for two reasons.
1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.
2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.
I don't have access to a torch.
1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.
2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.
I don't have access to a torch.
#16
Race Director
I prefer not to cut the strut for two reasons.
1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.
2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.
A small propane or map torch will suffice.
#17
Le Mans Master
when hitting the end of the shock mount,back up the ear(s) of the bearing mount. What makes the whole process difficult besides the rust. Is that the assembly will absorb the shock of the hammer blows. Go down to Lowes Depot and pick up a redi-torch of Map gas. should be all the heat you need.
#18
Melting Slicks
If its a California car the BMFH will probably work but if its seen salt and snow ( like most of the cars I work on) the BMFH is risky.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
Thanks Scott