Can't remove rear shock mount.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
Can't remove rear shock mount.
I've soaked all areas with pb blaster for a couple days, removed the shock, placed the crown nut at the end of the shock mount, and used an impact hammer against the crown nut so as to not damage the threads. I've also used a 2 lb. hammer at the same end and also used a pipe wrench on the "L" shaped end and applied enough force that I thought it was about to break and the shock mount will not budge. Any advise as to how to remove them.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I've soaked all areas with pb blaster for a couple days, removed the shock, placed the crown nut at the end of the shock mount, and used an impact hammer against the crown nut so as to not damage the threads. I've also used a 2 lb. hammer at the same end and also used a pipe wrench on the "L" shaped end and applied enough force that I thought it was about to break and the shock mount will not budge. Any advise as to how to remove them.
DO NOT continue to try to move the L-shaped side. The shock mount has a flat side so the hole isn't round. You can damage the ears if you round the hole.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
Based on the picture I see why I shouldn't rotate the "L" shaped end, thanks.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
Last edited by Maymyvetteliveforevr; Aug 26, 2010 at 09:18 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
I pounded on my 1980 and ended up breaking one of the ears off, so be careful. I also soaked mine with PB blaster for several days. When I did get it off (broken ear) the interior was still DRY.
I don't know if this will work, but here is a suggestion: put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
I don't know if this will work, but here is a suggestion: put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Thoroughly clean it and the housing .
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Based on the picture I see why I shouldn't rotate the "L" shaped end, thanks.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?
Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.
Chances are that the shock mount will either get its threads ruined or the shaft will be so rusty that you won't want to re-use it so you could just get a SawzAll and cut it out.
Another option is to cut off the torque rods near the shock mount, remove the trailing arms, and send them to Van Steel to either rebuild or exchange for rebuilt arms. That's what I did after destroying one shock mount.
Rick B.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.
Thoroughly clean it and the housing .
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)
(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)
Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.
Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.
Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.
Worth a try.
I start with a driver attached to my muffler gun turned down on low.
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
I tried most everything you've already posted. Soaked them, hit them with an air chissel with the hammer bit, a 2lb. hammer, all that stuff. A 5lb short handle hammer got it done in two hits.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
If its a California car the BMFH will probably work but if its seen salt and snow ( like most of the cars I work on) the BMFH is risky.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
Last edited by ...Roger...; Aug 27, 2010 at 09:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 82
From: Brampton Ont.
The tool isn't the problem, breaking the ears off is, so I hesitate in trying this method.
I prefer not to cut the strut for two reasons.
1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.
2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.
I don't have access to a torch.
1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.
2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.
I don't have access to a torch.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I prefer not to cut the strut for two reasons.
1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.
2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.
A small propane or map torch will suffice.
Limping across the line
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,299
Likes: 109
From: Peoria Az
when hitting the end of the shock mount,back up the ear(s) of the bearing mount. What makes the whole process difficult besides the rust. Is that the assembly will absorb the shock of the hammer blows. Go down to Lowes Depot and pick up a redi-torch of Map gas. should be all the heat you need.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
If its a California car the BMFH will probably work but if its seen salt and snow ( like most of the cars I work on) the BMFH is risky.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.
Thanks Scott