Maymyvetteliveforevr

I've soaked all areas with pb blaster for a couple days, removed the shock, placed the crown nut at the end of the shock mount, and used an impact hammer against the crown nut so as to not damage the threads. I've also used a 2 lb. hammer at the same end and also used a pipe wrench on the "L" shaped end and applied enough force that I thought it was about to break and the shock mount will not budge. Any advise as to how to remove them.

72LS1Vette

Vendors sell a shock removal tool that threads over the end of the mount, but you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $.

DO NOT continue to try to move the L-shaped side. The shock mount has a flat side so the hole isn't round. You can damage the ears if you round the hole.

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...GR-SR&CTitle=&



Rick B.

Maymyvetteliveforevr

Based on the picture I see why I shouldn't rotate the "L" shaped end, thanks.

When you say "you can use a pipe cap from the hardware store also for a couple of $." are you refering to the gas line (black iron) end cap and it would serve the same purpose and I was using the crown not at the end for? I would imagine the end cap is capable of more blunt force. If this is what you're refering to then would it be for a 3/4' line?

Just wanted to add more info, car has been up on blocks for 20 years and the rear leaf springs have been removed.

hwcoop

mine took some pretty good swings with a BIG hammer to knock it out.
This is with the tool but as said a pipe cap will work as well (not sure size)

mapman

I pounded on my 1980 and ended up breaking one of the ears off, so be careful. I also soaked mine with PB blaster for several days. When I did get it off (broken ear) the interior was still DRY.

I don't know if this will work, but here is a suggestion: put a baggie around the shock mount and FILL it with brake fluid. What you want is the mount SUBMERGED in fluid. Leave it for a few days. The brake fluid is thin enough to eventually penetrate the rust.

A penetrant like KROIL would work better than brake fluid if you have it.

hwcoop

sometimes when they are that rusted like mine its time to replace them

mar

Thoroughly clean it and the housing .

Place the assembly in the freezer over night in a baggie disguised as a big piece of steak (wife alert)

(Leave the shock mount removal fixture on it)

Pull it out, quickly clamp it in the vise as above.

Quickly apply torch heat to the housing and then pound it the fixture again.

Alternatively, you could 'freeze' it with CO2 instead of the freezer treatment.

Worth a try.

72LS1Vette

The gas line cap is what I am referring to. You could take the castle nut to the store and match up the thread size. As mentioned, Kroil is supposed to be a great penetrant and may work even better than PB Blaster. The problem with the shock mounts is the inner metal sleeve fronm the torque rod bushing tends to do a Vulcan mind-meld with the shock mount and no amount of penetrant will get it loose. Breaking one of the ears is the worst scenario since you then have to buy a new bearing housing.

Chances are that the shock mount will either get its threads ruined or the shaft will be so rusty that you won't want to re-use it so you could just get a SawzAll and cut it out.

Another option is to cut off the torque rods near the shock mount, remove the trailing arms, and send them to Van Steel to either rebuild or exchange for rebuilt arms. That's what I did after destroying one shock mount.



Rick B.

...Roger...

I've seen several broken ears. I start with a driver attached to my muffler gun turned down on low.
If that doesn't work I split the strut,peel it off the shock mount,cut the rubber off,this exposes the culprit -the inner sleeve. The sleeve is split,drive a thin punch in the split , spray in some PB , now drive the shock mount out. I do this on probably 75% of them.

Maymyvetteliveforevr

I will go to Home Depot and pick one up today, thanks.
If the previous method doesn't work I'll try this. Kroil can't be purchased locally in Canada, that's why I use PB blaster.
My next project is to remove the trailing arm (having a problem with that at the moment) therefore the part is still on the car so placing it in the freezer would be difficult.
Van Steel is cross boarder, therefore brokerage, customs, etc becomes an issue so I'll keep trying.
I'll keep this method in mind, thanks.

MrJlr

BMFH

damoroso

I tried most everything you've already posted. Soaked them, hit them with an air chissel with the hammer bit, a 2lb. hammer, all that stuff. A 5lb short handle hammer got it done in two hits.

...Roger...

If its a California car the BMFH will probably work but if its seen salt and snow ( like most of the cars I work on) the BMFH is risky.
I can sacrifice the strut,split and remove in only 15 min. ,so for me I don't risk breaking the expensive bearing housing.
I put 2 cuts in the outer strut shell with a 3" wheel on my die grinder and finish it with a chisel.
Peel that b#tch just like an onion.
EDIT- for those interested, her is my cut angle for the full cut through, I put a partial cut on the opposite side of the strut to weaken the strut so I can peel it off the shaft.

Raptor119

Heat! Use a torch.

Maymyvetteliveforevr

The tool isn't the problem, breaking the ears off is, so I hesitate in trying this method.

I prefer not to cut the strut for two reasons.

1. Being from Canada the replacement part is more of a premium when you factor in exchange, brokerage, duty etc...etc.

2. As the orignal owner, I was hoping to save most of the original parts. I guess it's just me and even though I never plan on seller her, well, I've still kept all the original parts I've replaced.

I don't have access to a torch.

...Roger...

I understand,then the soaking , vibration and heat applied to the shock mount and patience is probably your best bet.
A small propane or map torch will suffice.

AzMotorhead

when hitting the end of the shock mount,back up the ear(s) of the bearing mount. What makes the whole process difficult besides the rust. Is that the assembly will absorb the shock of the hammer blows. Go down to Lowes Depot and pick up a redi-torch of Map gas. should be all the heat you need.

Roco71

Roger can you cut the strut while it’s on the car and can you reuse the shock mount?
Thanks Scott

...Roger...

Yes to both questions.

Roco71

Thanks