persuader

A small air powered angle grinder with 2 inch 3M roloc 36 grit wheels is what I use.
I would only use an epoxy resin like west systems 105 and their 205 gardner. And like DUB stated you will need to make several laminations to make a correct and long lasting repair. Rush this part of the repair and you will pay for it later.
The optional pumps make mixing the epoxy resin a breeze with no guess work.

r16678

Thanks DUB, I agree is it a bit overkill. I will look for air tool

r16678

Thank you, does West make a resin gel? Was thinking that might be easier to work with since I fixing a vertical piece.

lionelhutz

This link might help;

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-publications-2/

The West stuff works really well. Get the pumps if you use it because you have to mix it at the correct ratio.


Check out YouTube for boatworkstoday - He has a multipart fiberglass boat repair video. Also check out the size of the bow of the boat in the background.

persuader

lars

If you need to MAKE some holes in a Vette, I use a sledgehammer. This is one of the most effective tools for punching big holes fast. Here is me with "AGVI" (Les in Toronto) after I showed him how to use the sledge on his quarter panel (I was actually trying to show Les how to change the bulb in the sidemarker by removing the lens with the hammer. I missed the lens on the first stroke, and tried to hit it a second time):
[/QUOTE]




Lars

DUB

PLEASE...Do not try to "re-invent the wheel" here...and even though resin gel is made...it has its uses but not in this area. You will have all the help and support you will need here...so do not worry about it. You will need to make sure that the resin and hardener are at room temp when you go to pump them out....along with the surface temp of the body...so no super cold/freezing temps.

Make sure that you pump slowly and give the pump time to re-fill. Mix up small batches...versus...you pumping out 15 pumps of each and "dilly-dallying" around and have your resin harden up on you before you get it all applied. I have made this mistake a few times at the drag strip repairing carbon fiber...so I have learned it is no big deal to do 3 pumps of each and mix and apply.

As mentioned by persuader. It will be better that you apply thin layers of mat and resin and build up that way...versus you trying to get it all done in one step. IF you choose to do it all in one step...your chances of a problem greatly increases...and this is due to you do not do this all the time...and the percentage of "learning curve" DOES come into play. Excessive layers can build up a lot of heat which does not provide a strong repair versus a lamination that has time to cure slowly. Getting this done in an hour is NOT what you are wanting to do. 3 layers of 1.5 oz mat...and that is it per laminating session...in my opinion...and what is the hurry anyway???

I am "old school" and I prefer to use a resin that is watery and not thick like cold syrup. The reason is getting the resin to work into the fibers quickly and easily....and getting all the air out...and NOT having the mat be stoking in resin...which is NOT what you want Which is why you want to not have your resin ice cold. If you do not believe me...try it...you'll see.

So being concerned about laminating vertical surfaces should not be any concern of yours. You have many other issues that should consume your thoughts ...other than resin running down a panel...which is very easy to control.

If you need some "tricks" or tips on getting this repair done with minimal grief...PM me and I will give you my shop number so we can talk. The choice is yours. I am not going to type out everything that I know you could use to aid you ( honestly...I prefer to talk to cover more info faster)...and you will have to obtain some other products to make it go easy also. So IF you were thinking that the resin is the only thing you will need to fix this area is quite incorrect.

DUB

noonie

This is the type of disc you need, not the best available, but you need flexible.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of...iscs-8747.html
That grinder is fine. Just touch and go with it, not heavy grinding. Hope it has the 5/8-11 arbor, makes consumables a lot easier. Only get air if you have other uses, I wouldn't for just this one repair.

Just to add here on the method, saturate your first layer on a flat disposable surface, then after it's up, just add and saturate more layers on top of the repair adding resin only if needed. In all likelyhood, you will be able to build it up high enough. Be setup to mix another batch and work quickly to add layers if the first starts to set. It will save you from having to grind before another app.
Call Dub, he can explain it all to you.

r16678

Thank you I will check out both link and video

r16678

Lars[/QUOTE]

Now that is some funny stuff

r16678

DUB thank you very much I will give you a call, I really appreciate the guidance

r16678

Thanks I am looking for an air grinder, I agree with everyone it will make it much easier to control then my makita. With my luck using my makita I will grind right through everything.

lionelhutz

I find cured fiberglass to be fairly hard. It's not like a hard grinding wheel will cut through it as soon as you touch the surface unless you are doing something really wrong (as in so wrong you shouldn't even be attempting this job). A flap disk on your electric grinder will be less aggressive and get the job done since that's the grinder you have.

Now I'm at home I can find the link. Take a look at this 4-part series.

r16678

DUB how do I send you a message to get your phone number?

DUB

Private Message me (PM).

DUB

r16678

Thanks sending it

flyloeZ06

Will the same method work repairing a cracked carbon fiber fender?

donnie1956

You need different bonding agents for carbon fiber. Years ago did repair work on industrial robots with carbon fiber and loctite had a pretty good adhesive. Easy to grind and sand but wear protection as those little fiber splinters are a pain to get out of your hands.

r16678

DUB
Thanks for discussing with m, I am posting more pics , included ones from the inside as well. I picked up a roloc and sanding discs figured these were the ones you were all recommending.

r16678

Grinded down the outside and inside, it appears there is a strip guessing bonding strip that is in the way. I have attached two pics with arrow pointing to what I think is the bonding strip. What is the best process to follow, should I cut the portion of the strip that is in the way and then set my mat and resin, or should I just I just apply my mat and resin directly against the strip.
Thanks,