paint stripping
#2
Instructor
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Location: Western Loudoun County VA
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Doubt you will be able to get a straight answer on that one, very dependent on the situation. You will be limited on the choice of products due to requirement to be safe on fiberglass. We used citrustrip from home depot. We are probably 3 gallons into it but I use a lot of elbow grease and scotch pads where more applications would have made it easier. Also, we could not get the stripper to make a dent in the original paint and had to strip paint first with razors and then use stripper on the 3 layers of primer Chevy used. We still have the hood and hard top and a little body, so probably 5-6 gallons just for the primer layers and that was with it only being the one layer of paint.
I got good info just by browsing through the paint specific forum before starting.
I got good info just by browsing through the paint specific forum before starting.
#3
Race Director
After removing as much with a razor blade as possible...
I can do it in ONE GALLON. Without ANY DAMAGE to the body caused by the stripper I use..
One thing to remember...all chemical strippers contain a percentage of methlyene chloride...and the stuff I use is STOUT and does not play around.
With that written...if you feel better using a milder strength/less aggressive stripper and taking longer and working harder..then feel free. Sometimes it is better to be SAFE than sorry...But I have been using the same stuff for over 30 years...and I have tried other brands...and go back to the stout stuff. The end result will still be the same...the paint will come off.
DUB
I can do it in ONE GALLON. Without ANY DAMAGE to the body caused by the stripper I use..
One thing to remember...all chemical strippers contain a percentage of methlyene chloride...and the stuff I use is STOUT and does not play around.
With that written...if you feel better using a milder strength/less aggressive stripper and taking longer and working harder..then feel free. Sometimes it is better to be SAFE than sorry...But I have been using the same stuff for over 30 years...and I have tried other brands...and go back to the stout stuff. The end result will still be the same...the paint will come off.
DUB
#4
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And if this is your first time, like mine was, don't be afraid of the razor method. There are loads of YouTube videos that demonstrate and once you get a feel of the blade it will be the easiest part of the process. I put the stripper on that 40 y.o. paint and it sat there doing absolutely nothing.
#5
Race Director
And if this is your first time, like mine was, don't be afraid of the razor method. There are loads of YouTube videos that demonstrate and once you get a feel of the blade it will be the easiest part of the process. I put the stripper on that 40 y.o. paint and it sat there doing absolutely nothing.
Not all paint strippers are the same.
DUB
#6
Le Mans Master
well this forum just got fun, were talking about strippers. shucks
i agree the razor blades take it off pretty quick, and i prefer it for as much as you can do because cleanup is much easier. you can vacum the stuff up and it doesn't leave a gooey mess and you don't have to slip and fall on plastic sheets. and yes use the good stuff not that citrus crap, i used that on something one time and gave up.
i agree the razor blades take it off pretty quick, and i prefer it for as much as you can do because cleanup is much easier. you can vacum the stuff up and it doesn't leave a gooey mess and you don't have to slip and fall on plastic sheets. and yes use the good stuff not that citrus crap, i used that on something one time and gave up.
#7
Melting Slicks
If you have about a month to spare check out "My Personal Paint Thread". I still have about a half-gallon left of Kleen-Strip Aircraft stripper. Very messy. nasty work, but doesn't nick up the glass...
#8
Racer
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This is slightly off subject, but I have been using airplane stripper on many things such as powder coating and it's even cleaned up dried up adhesive glues, but it wouldn't hardly touch the black paint on the metal cover inside the doors. I've never met anything this stuff wouldn't touch until this paint. The metal is fairly flat and the paint is only a coat or two. I can't help wonder if it's the age of the paint or it has lead or something in it.
#9
Drifting
Think we used 5-6 gallons on my '73 vert, but that includes stripping the painted exterior, interior, engine compartment and the underside of the body... We used Aircraft Stripper for Fiberglass... We did not use the razor to remove top layer of paint, just the stripper and about 5 gallons of lacquer thinner (and boxes of scotch-brites)...
Good luck...
Rogman
Good luck...
Rogman
#10
Le Mans Master
After removing the 1st layer of paint with razor blades, I use 2-3 gallons of this to finish the job.
I found the aircraft stripper is less $$$ and no shipping fees, but pretty sure I remember reading not for use on fiberglass on the container. Looks like its used all the time, so apparently there isn't a problem with it.
Have fun.
I found the aircraft stripper is less $$$ and no shipping fees, but pretty sure I remember reading not for use on fiberglass on the container. Looks like its used all the time, so apparently there isn't a problem with it.
Have fun.
#11
Burning Brakes
#12
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Hi r,
A good thing to remember is that while the job at hand is getting ALL the paint and primer off the car, the underlying goal is to do it without damaging the surface of the fiberglass in any way.
Thus, whether it's a razor blade, or a gel or liquid, the work needs to be done very carefully. It's pretty easy for someone with out much experience to get overly ambitious and cause themselves more grief and work.
I think the number of layers of paint on the car, and what the paint is, has a lot to do with how big a job it becomes and what method may be best.
Also, often it's a good idea to talk to the person who's going to paint the car (if it's not you) to hear what their thoughts are.
Regards,
Alan
A good thing to remember is that while the job at hand is getting ALL the paint and primer off the car, the underlying goal is to do it without damaging the surface of the fiberglass in any way.
Thus, whether it's a razor blade, or a gel or liquid, the work needs to be done very carefully. It's pretty easy for someone with out much experience to get overly ambitious and cause themselves more grief and work.
I think the number of layers of paint on the car, and what the paint is, has a lot to do with how big a job it becomes and what method may be best.
Also, often it's a good idea to talk to the person who's going to paint the car (if it's not you) to hear what their thoughts are.
Regards,
Alan
#13
Race Director
PROFESSIONAL COMMENT
AS often stated: "There is more than one way to skin a cat"....I guess is true. (even though I do not skin cats)...but I get the idea.
When it comes to stripping paint off a car..regardless if it is steel or fiberglass. Will often times depend on what was applied on it.
Steel cars are much easier due to when an Aircraft stripper is applied...you can cover that part with a sheet of plastic and walk away for a while...come back and peel the plastic off and the paint basically will fall off...but once again...it depends on what is ON IT.
On fiberglass/SMC panels...it is quite different. And OFTEN TIMES manufacturers WILL HAVE TO write on the can or information that the product should not be used on fiberglass. And the reason for that...is some BOZO...who did not have enough common sense to fill a thimble...screwed up his/her car...and due to the statement not being on the can..CLEARLY WRITTEN OUT....(much like CAUTION: COFFEE IS HOT!...really?)...they stripped it like a metal car and ruined it. SO...that is why many times things are written because some BOZO had to ruin it....because they thought they could do it there way....and were obviously wrong. Then went running for someone to fix their mess-up.
SO...basically knowing that a chemical stripper can be used on fiberglass/SMC without any damage...it has everything to do with the person applying it and knowing how to get it off....and NOT APPLYING the stripper on the body that has had the paint and primer already removed. THIS is when problems begin. NOT PAYING ATTENTION.
Media blasting is also a blessing and a curse on a fiberglass/SMC body. Some areas the media will not effectively remove the paint and cause damage...especially if the person running the equipment DOES NO HAVE A CLUE.
Companies can write on the can whatever they want...such as "professional grade" or "high strength"...but to me...often times that is just a marketing strategy get you to fell all "warm and fuzzy" like you bought something worth while. In some cases it is true...but often times is it B.S. I can list several...but will not....so do not ask.
Usually products that are readily available to the general public are a weaker grade. They work...but are not as stout and those products that are usually labeled for "professionally trained personnel under controlled conditions".
If you have not stripped a fiberglass/SMC car chemically...and you want to do so...you can do it. I am not writing that you can not. But if you do it and you have a problem...you only have YOURSELF to BLAME. Many of us who do this....where shown by someone what to look for...and when to stop...and how to fix the problem if something shows up...and have learned over the years of doing it...what can come up and so on. So do not blame the stripper, media blasting material or razor blade that nicked the heck out of your body. BLAME YOURSELF. This is because so many of us professionals could have done the job without any problems...and if something came up...we would know what to do next. It is called experience...not meaning to be a boastful...but it is true. And knowing that many of you are doing this to save $$$$$...just realize that it can back-fire on you if you think you know everything.
So many of you who ask for help/guidance and so on are doing the best thing possible. Learning from those who often times HAVE TO WARRANTY/GUARANTEE their work.
DUB
AS often stated: "There is more than one way to skin a cat"....I guess is true. (even though I do not skin cats)...but I get the idea.
When it comes to stripping paint off a car..regardless if it is steel or fiberglass. Will often times depend on what was applied on it.
Steel cars are much easier due to when an Aircraft stripper is applied...you can cover that part with a sheet of plastic and walk away for a while...come back and peel the plastic off and the paint basically will fall off...but once again...it depends on what is ON IT.
On fiberglass/SMC panels...it is quite different. And OFTEN TIMES manufacturers WILL HAVE TO write on the can or information that the product should not be used on fiberglass. And the reason for that...is some BOZO...who did not have enough common sense to fill a thimble...screwed up his/her car...and due to the statement not being on the can..CLEARLY WRITTEN OUT....(much like CAUTION: COFFEE IS HOT!...really?)...they stripped it like a metal car and ruined it. SO...that is why many times things are written because some BOZO had to ruin it....because they thought they could do it there way....and were obviously wrong. Then went running for someone to fix their mess-up.
SO...basically knowing that a chemical stripper can be used on fiberglass/SMC without any damage...it has everything to do with the person applying it and knowing how to get it off....and NOT APPLYING the stripper on the body that has had the paint and primer already removed. THIS is when problems begin. NOT PAYING ATTENTION.
Media blasting is also a blessing and a curse on a fiberglass/SMC body. Some areas the media will not effectively remove the paint and cause damage...especially if the person running the equipment DOES NO HAVE A CLUE.
Companies can write on the can whatever they want...such as "professional grade" or "high strength"...but to me...often times that is just a marketing strategy get you to fell all "warm and fuzzy" like you bought something worth while. In some cases it is true...but often times is it B.S. I can list several...but will not....so do not ask.
Usually products that are readily available to the general public are a weaker grade. They work...but are not as stout and those products that are usually labeled for "professionally trained personnel under controlled conditions".
If you have not stripped a fiberglass/SMC car chemically...and you want to do so...you can do it. I am not writing that you can not. But if you do it and you have a problem...you only have YOURSELF to BLAME. Many of us who do this....where shown by someone what to look for...and when to stop...and how to fix the problem if something shows up...and have learned over the years of doing it...what can come up and so on. So do not blame the stripper, media blasting material or razor blade that nicked the heck out of your body. BLAME YOURSELF. This is because so many of us professionals could have done the job without any problems...and if something came up...we would know what to do next. It is called experience...not meaning to be a boastful...but it is true. And knowing that many of you are doing this to save $$$$$...just realize that it can back-fire on you if you think you know everything.
So many of you who ask for help/guidance and so on are doing the best thing possible. Learning from those who often times HAVE TO WARRANTY/GUARANTEE their work.
DUB
#14
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
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PROFESSIONAL COMMENT
AS often stated: "There is more than one way to skin a cat"....I guess is true. (even though I do not skin cats)...but I get the idea.
When it comes to stripping paint off a car..regardless if it is steel or fiberglass. Will often times depend on what was applied on it.
Steel cars are much easier due to when an Aircraft stripper is applied...you can cover that part with a sheet of plastic and walk away for a while...come back and peel the plastic off and the paint basically will fall off...but once again...it depends on what is ON IT.
On fiberglass/SMC panels...it is quite different. And OFTEN TIMES manufacturers WILL HAVE TO write on the can or information that the product should not be used on fiberglass. And the reason for that...is some BOZO...who did not have enough common sense to fill a thimble...screwed up his/her car...and due to the statement not being on the can..CLEARLY WRITTEN OUT....(much like CAUTION: COFFEE IS HOT!...really?)...they stripped it like a metal car and ruined it. SO...that is why many times things are written because some BOZO had to ruin it....because they thought they could do it there way....and were obviously wrong. Then went running for someone to fix their mess-up.
SO...basically knowing that a chemical stripper can be used on fiberglass/SMC without any damage...it has everything to do with the person applying it and knowing how to get it off....and NOT APPLYING the stripper on the body that has had the paint and primer already removed. THIS is when problems begin. NOT PAYING ATTENTION.
Media blasting is also a blessing and a curse on a fiberglass/SMC body. Some areas the media will not effectively remove the paint and cause damage...especially if the person running the equipment DOES NO HAVE A CLUE.
Companies can write on the can whatever they want...such as "professional grade" or "high strength"...but to me...often times that is just a marketing strategy get you to fell all "warm and fuzzy" like you bought something worth while. In some cases it is true...but often times is it B.S. I can list several...but will not....so do not ask.
Usually products that are readily available to the general public are a weaker grade. They work...but are not as stout and those products that are usually labeled for "professionally trained personnel under controlled conditions".
If you have not stripped a fiberglass/SMC car chemically...and you want to do so...you can do it. I am not writing that you can not. But if you do it and you have a problem...you only have YOURSELF to BLAME. Many of us who do this....where shown by someone what to look for...and when to stop...and how to fix the problem if something shows up...and have learned over the years of doing it...what can come up and so on. So do not blame the stripper, media blasting material or razor blade that nicked the heck out of your body. BLAME YOURSELF. This is because so many of us professionals could have done the job without any problems...and if something came up...we would know what to do next. It is called experience...not meaning to be a boastful...but it is true. And knowing that many of you are doing this to save $$$$$...just realize that it can back-fire on you if you think you know everything.
So many of you who ask for help/guidance and so on are doing the best thing possible. Learning from those who often times HAVE TO WARRANTY/GUARANTEE their work.
DUB
AS often stated: "There is more than one way to skin a cat"....I guess is true. (even though I do not skin cats)...but I get the idea.
When it comes to stripping paint off a car..regardless if it is steel or fiberglass. Will often times depend on what was applied on it.
Steel cars are much easier due to when an Aircraft stripper is applied...you can cover that part with a sheet of plastic and walk away for a while...come back and peel the plastic off and the paint basically will fall off...but once again...it depends on what is ON IT.
On fiberglass/SMC panels...it is quite different. And OFTEN TIMES manufacturers WILL HAVE TO write on the can or information that the product should not be used on fiberglass. And the reason for that...is some BOZO...who did not have enough common sense to fill a thimble...screwed up his/her car...and due to the statement not being on the can..CLEARLY WRITTEN OUT....(much like CAUTION: COFFEE IS HOT!...really?)...they stripped it like a metal car and ruined it. SO...that is why many times things are written because some BOZO had to ruin it....because they thought they could do it there way....and were obviously wrong. Then went running for someone to fix their mess-up.
SO...basically knowing that a chemical stripper can be used on fiberglass/SMC without any damage...it has everything to do with the person applying it and knowing how to get it off....and NOT APPLYING the stripper on the body that has had the paint and primer already removed. THIS is when problems begin. NOT PAYING ATTENTION.
Media blasting is also a blessing and a curse on a fiberglass/SMC body. Some areas the media will not effectively remove the paint and cause damage...especially if the person running the equipment DOES NO HAVE A CLUE.
Companies can write on the can whatever they want...such as "professional grade" or "high strength"...but to me...often times that is just a marketing strategy get you to fell all "warm and fuzzy" like you bought something worth while. In some cases it is true...but often times is it B.S. I can list several...but will not....so do not ask.
Usually products that are readily available to the general public are a weaker grade. They work...but are not as stout and those products that are usually labeled for "professionally trained personnel under controlled conditions".
If you have not stripped a fiberglass/SMC car chemically...and you want to do so...you can do it. I am not writing that you can not. But if you do it and you have a problem...you only have YOURSELF to BLAME. Many of us who do this....where shown by someone what to look for...and when to stop...and how to fix the problem if something shows up...and have learned over the years of doing it...what can come up and so on. So do not blame the stripper, media blasting material or razor blade that nicked the heck out of your body. BLAME YOURSELF. This is because so many of us professionals could have done the job without any problems...and if something came up...we would know what to do next. It is called experience...not meaning to be a boastful...but it is true. And knowing that many of you are doing this to save $$$$$...just realize that it can back-fire on you if you think you know everything.
So many of you who ask for help/guidance and so on are doing the best thing possible. Learning from those who often times HAVE TO WARRANTY/GUARANTEE their work.
DUB
Scott
#15
Race Director
Our fathers are much alike. WORDS OF WISDOM come out of my Dads mouth quite often...and I pay attention. You have a smart Dad Scott.
DUB