Fuel line install - pump to carb?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Fuel line install - pump to carb?
Anyone have installation guide/instructions for the Fuel line install - pump to carb? Also, what type of in-line filter do you use (aftermarket) and fittings? Thanks!
I have the original 650cfm Q-jet 4bbl with vac2ndry and the correct replacement fuel lines...just no installation guide.
Thanks!
I have the original 650cfm Q-jet 4bbl with vac2ndry and the correct replacement fuel lines...just no installation guide.
Thanks!
#2
Melting Slicks
The carb has a filter built into the inlet fitting. It works fine and should be replaced at tune-up time. The line should simply snake down beside the water pump behind the A/C compressor (if you have A/C) and end up at the carb inlet. I am assuming you have the correct pre-formed line. Don't use one of the inline clear filters it you insist on adding one. They look a little shade-tree to me. Factory setup works fine
#3
Le Mans Master
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As Casey stated, the carb has it's own filter which should be replaced. Lars recommends not using an in-line filter, unless the car originally was so equipped (as some of the BB's were).
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks. Any pictures/diagrams? I bought the "correct" replacements as original from VolVetteProd. There are 3 sections in the kit.
It tells me it had an in-line filter originally. The lines have fittings for it. The 3rd line seems to be a return, but I do not have a functional return line to my tank.
No a/c no pwr brakes. 327ci/350hp
It tells me it had an in-line filter originally. The lines have fittings for it. The 3rd line seems to be a return, but I do not have a functional return line to my tank.
No a/c no pwr brakes. 327ci/350hp
Last edited by bwellisley; 08-19-2014 at 12:50 PM.
#5
Tech Contributor
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Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
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Anyone have installation guide/instructions for the Fuel line install - pump to carb? Also, what type of in-line filter do you use (aftermarket) and fittings? Thanks!
I have the original 650cfm Q-jet 4bbl with vac2ndry and the correct replacement fuel lines...just no installation guide. Thanks!
I have the original 650cfm Q-jet 4bbl with vac2ndry and the correct replacement fuel lines...just no installation guide. Thanks!
- Your original Q-Jet is not 650 cfm - it's a 750 cfm carb.
- The Q-Jet is not a vacuum secondary carb - it's a mechanical secondary with secondary airvalve control.
- You didn't state what year your car is: Anything built after 1970 does not use an in-line filter on a stock system. The filter is in the carb.
If your car is a 68 or 69, the 327 engine uses an in-line filter with a return bleed built into it. If you have a 68-69, your car has a return line running down the frame rail to the tank, unless someone has cut it off and removed it, in which case you need to re-install it. The filter you need is GF-432, and it's available from all the Vette parts suppliers, including Paragon. The filter is held in a bracket that bolts to the front of the engine.
For installation, you simply disconnect the old line(s) at the pump and carb, remove the old stuff, and screw the new lines and filter in at the pump and carb. Lube the fittings with some assembly lube to assure proper torque, and use a backup wrench on the mating fittings.
Lars
Last edited by lars; 08-19-2014 at 01:40 PM.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks, Lars. Yes, 1968 327/350. Excuse my mis-note of carb
Yes, previous owner cut and pinched-off return line on frame. I was not able to replace it as it appears to require to lift the body off the frame. I have replaced the brake lines. I was previously running a 600cfm holley square-bore with no return...should this be possible still? I guess I could take another look at the return line on the car and see if I could re-claim it, clean it out, and use hose and clamps to connect it up again....?
Yes, previous owner cut and pinched-off return line on frame. I was not able to replace it as it appears to require to lift the body off the frame. I have replaced the brake lines. I was previously running a 600cfm holley square-bore with no return...should this be possible still? I guess I could take another look at the return line on the car and see if I could re-claim it, clean it out, and use hose and clamps to connect it up again....?
#7
Tech Contributor
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Running a return line is a huge advantage on a street car running pump gas - it really eliminates the vapor lock issues and keeps the fuel in the carb much cooler. I'd strongly recommend that you find a way to save the return line and put it back in use: It's not a pressure line, so you can connect to it with rubber fuel line and clamps.
Lars
Lars
#8
Former Vendor
inline filter system from Peak Speed Shop
For those with 1970's vehicles that have return line on fuel pump, here is an option based on one of Lars' whitepapers.
For anyone having a hard time getting the Weatherhead 1446 adapters (including o-ring) for this setup, Peak Speed Shop now sells them online.
Weatherhead 1446 adapters
Or, order a whole kit for Quadrajet Carburetor setup:
C3 Filter Kit from Peak Speed Shop
Go to: http://peakspeedshop.com/Zen_Cart/in...x&cPath=90_138
For anyone having a hard time getting the Weatherhead 1446 adapters (including o-ring) for this setup, Peak Speed Shop now sells them online.
Weatherhead 1446 adapters
Or, order a whole kit for Quadrajet Carburetor setup:
C3 Filter Kit from Peak Speed Shop
Go to: http://peakspeedshop.com/Zen_Cart/in...x&cPath=90_138
#9
Anyone have installation guide/instructions for the Fuel line install - pump to carb? Also, what type of in-line filter do you use (aftermarket) and fittings? Thanks!
I have the original 650cfm Q-jet 4bbl with vac2ndry and the correct replacement fuel lines...just no installation guide.
Thanks!
I have the original 650cfm Q-jet 4bbl with vac2ndry and the correct replacement fuel lines...just no installation guide.
Thanks!
#10
Race Director
What do you EXACTLY mean by it being stripped????
IS it the flare nut portion of the fuel line that is stripped or possibly rounded off so you can not get flare wrench on it???
YES...if you loosed the flare nut a the fuel pump. Fuel WILL come out.
You will also need an open ended wrench to hold the brass fitting that is threaded in the bottom of the fuel pump that your fuel line goes into. IF you don't hold it. It can break.
DUB
IS it the flare nut portion of the fuel line that is stripped or possibly rounded off so you can not get flare wrench on it???
YES...if you loosed the flare nut a the fuel pump. Fuel WILL come out.
You will also need an open ended wrench to hold the brass fitting that is threaded in the bottom of the fuel pump that your fuel line goes into. IF you don't hold it. It can break.
DUB
#11
What do you EXACTLY mean by it being stripped????
IS it the flare nut portion of the fuel line that is stripped or possibly rounded off so you can not get flare wrench on it???
YES...if you loosed the flare nut a the fuel pump. Fuel WILL come out.
You will also need an open ended wrench to hold the brass fitting that is threaded in the bottom of the fuel pump that your fuel line goes into. IF you don't hold it. It can break.
DUB
IS it the flare nut portion of the fuel line that is stripped or possibly rounded off so you can not get flare wrench on it???
YES...if you loosed the flare nut a the fuel pump. Fuel WILL come out.
You will also need an open ended wrench to hold the brass fitting that is threaded in the bottom of the fuel pump that your fuel line goes into. IF you don't hold it. It can break.
DUB
#12
Race Director
You have to get UNDER the car to get to the connection where the fuel line is attached to the fuel pump.
YES...you may need to remove the rubber fuel supply hose at the fuel pump and plug it or if you want to take the chance on pinching the hose...you can try that.
When I change these lines I do not have to take anything off. I can work the fuel line out from the top. Possibly I may need to remove the one heater hose at the intake ...but that is it and no brackets or anything else in 99% of the cars I work on.
You will also need to make sure you have a wrench on the fitting that the fuel line is attached to that goes into your carburetor. Getting the 'rounded' flare nut at the carb loose to remove it may take Vise-Grips.
DUB
YES...you may need to remove the rubber fuel supply hose at the fuel pump and plug it or if you want to take the chance on pinching the hose...you can try that.
When I change these lines I do not have to take anything off. I can work the fuel line out from the top. Possibly I may need to remove the one heater hose at the intake ...but that is it and no brackets or anything else in 99% of the cars I work on.
You will also need to make sure you have a wrench on the fitting that the fuel line is attached to that goes into your carburetor. Getting the 'rounded' flare nut at the carb loose to remove it may take Vise-Grips.
DUB