Planbmatt1

Alright guys. I finally finished repairing my stock harness, removing unnecessary components, hooking up all the clips, and I hid all wiring.

Now I looked at my AIM and it says that the short lead goes to the starter as pictured.

And the long lead goes to the same port as the red on the alternator as pictured.

Can you guys confirm im doing this right? Last thing I want is to blow my harness or holley hp efi due to hooking it up wrong. All I need is confirmation im doing it right or what im doing wrong. Thanks!!

DUB

WHAT YEAR???? and you are wrong.

I think you have a problem...due to the 12 gauge red wire you are holding to your battery cable...should have a fusible link in it at the end. Someone has done something to this red wire....because that crimped on yellow terminal is NOT factory...that is FOR SURE!!!!

Also....why are you pulling on the battery cable to the starter to the other side of the engine compartment????

NOW...if this red wire is 'supposed' to be secured to the alternator...then you are fine....hard to say because you are blocking other wires.....BUT I do not know what you a have going on down by the starter and solenoid. This battery cable DOES NOT go on the drivers side of the engine.

The LONG battery cable that comes from the rear of the car....goes to the large stud on the starer solenoid.

The short battery cable is YOUR GROUND and goes from the motor mount perch on the passenger side of the engine to the mounting BOLT in the engine block for the starter support....AND NOT ON THE SOLENOID!!!!

DO as you wish...but 'hiding' your wires can come back and haunt you. THINK about future service and repairs.

DUB

Planbmatt1

It is a 1976

I received my AIM today and was looking over it. I corrected my mistake on the top pic. That is my ground and will be bolted to the engine. The bottom pic that lead is going to the starter. Now Like you said my harness has been tampered with a lot. I was repairing it and I'm trying to hook the body and front harness up to the battery. The engine is going lsx standalone.

The red wire and black wire both go to the alternator that is for sure. There is also a 3rd wire in the loom that has a factory clip on it. Any ideas? I'm thinking it is A relay to the battery to charge it?

The reason I think this is because I was told that the battery sends two leads. One off to the starter (bottom pic wire) and another to the alternator where the battery feeds power to the fuse panel and gets charged.

I'll also be custom wiring the starter in so there is no wiring down there. Just the ground and feed from battery.

If you could include a picture of your alternator wiring and where the battery feeds power to the harness that would be awesome. A picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Planbmatt1

Also the reason I said hiding wires is because I will not be using many of the wires, I won't be using any of the body harness but gas, windows, starter, and rear lights. I'm going racepak and just keeping the wires hidden in case I for some reason have to go back to stock.

jnb5101

I'm having trouble orienting the picture, but does the red wire(with the yellow lug) run from the alternator to the horn relay?

Planbmatt1

Correct. I have figured out how the alternator is wired and how the starter gets power. The big question i guess is how in the hell does the harness get power? I was looking at my chiltons last night and its showing that there is suppose to be a linkable fuse going from the starter to the alternator and that is how the fuse box gets power.

DUB

Starter gets power DIRECTLY from the battery...RIGHT???

SO..knowing that the starter gets power from the positive battery cable. The terminal stud on the solenoid...where the battery cable gets attached to...WILL ALSO have a 12 gauge wire attached to it...with a fusible link to protect the circuit.

NOW...this 12 gauge red wire will often times go to a junction block by the master cylinder/wheel house area ....OR...... bolt to a horn relay on the earlier Corvettes. Also...the red wire that bolts to the backside of the alternator get also bolted to the junction block.

BELIEVE ME!!!! I am NOT trying to 'kick you out at the knees'. AND I APPLAUD YOU for taking the time to look in manuals and begin to understand how a system works....because if you do not KNOW the system...this is when a problem can occur. BUT I will write this. PLEASE...make sure that all of your 'ideas' are very well thought out before you actually power up the system. And for what it is worth.....PLEASE do not be one of those people who do all their wring with crimp on connectors of any type. The reason I write that...is I fix more 'fuster clucked' wiring jobs that I care NOT to remember. Two things ALWAYS seem to be a constant when that the person crimping these solderless crimp connectors on is that they either A.) Do not know how to correctly position a connector to be crimped. BECAUSE there is a CORRECT position before crimping...B.) They crimp the wire to DEATH...thus damaging the strands and they actually break at the crimp.

YES...I use the solder-less terminals...but I remove the red,yellow and blue insulation off of them and shrink wrap them AFTER they have been CORRECTLY crimped and SOLDERED. I also use the correct GM style terminals that get crimped on both the wire and the insulation...and I solder them also....even thought I have the correct crimping tools.

REALLY think out what you are doing and PLEASE consider wire gauge and protecting the circuits, any moisture issues that can effect the circuit in the future and KNOWING how many amps a 'NEW' component is requiring from the system so you can make the CORRECT determination of wire gauge size and fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link needed to PROTECT you car so you do not have a problem. For some of the Corvette Forum members who have actually had the opportunity to see what I go through when wiring in aftermarket and custom application....I rarely use what the 'company' gives for installation. Because I feel...it is NOT up to my expectations and can be improved on.

DUB