When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi sl,
It appears it depends how much of the firewall you're removing as to how to proceed. Is this for a rust repair?
I'm looking at the 71 AIM and it appears upper center panel and dash/wiper bay panel (to about 8" down the face of the firewall) are held in place with a combination of pop-rivets and bonding material.
Removing those panels reveals the entire lower windshield frame, top of the cowl, and the top of the lock pillars.
In 71 it's ASM 1 Bolt/Weld, Sheet A13. Probably in a similar location in your 77 AIM.
Have you looked at that drawing?
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
I did it in order to exchange the birdcage on my car.
It's not as easy as it may seem. I'm going to assume that the front end is already off and all the wiring etc is out of the way...
1. remove all the caulking so you can see the various rivets. (some are kind of hidden. so look carefully at the aem for them).
2. Drill out the rivets.
3. try to insert some sharp sizzle or other object in the seam between the firewall and frame and if an opening exists, put a small wooden wedge in. Work your way around the seams, each time putting in additional wedges and hammering the previous ones in a little further.
To note is that the material used to glue the firewall to the frame is polyurethane so unline the glue of the poly panels, this one remains flexible and won't let go as easy.
I sometimes had to resort to the type of piano wire that you use for the removal of windscreens to cut through the polyurethane.
Inevitably you will damage some parts of the firewall.
The most difficult areas are just behind the number 1 and 2 body mounts and on the top of the A-pillar.
the wiper box and firewall is going out the bird cage. this is my first vette. you can see in the photos the crack. it on both sides. I would like to remove it clean it and reinstall. I am having the windshield removed Monday. can you help me please with some info and maybe some photos of the panels. how many panels are on this.
If you do not have one...it is time for you to purchase a 1977 Corvette Assembly Manual.
And as 'Alan71'...suggested...look in the area that he mentioned.
You will need a heat gun, infra red thermometer, drill, scraper and some other tools to get the firewall off.
Get everything off the firewall.
You better measure and make sure your door sill/ rocker channels and 'A' pillar are set and locked in place...because when you get the firewall off...they can spread apart.
thank you DUB, what would be the best way to lock the sill and a pillar. is there any special way. and where do I measure, from across to sill to sill, front and back. I do not mean to ask so many questions. I just do not know vettes. I am a motor trans elect man. little body work. dents waves and things. I do mean it. thank you.
thank you DUB, what would be the best way to lock the sill and a pillar. is there any special way. and where do I measure, from across to sill to sill, front and back. I do not mean to ask so many questions. I just do not know vettes. I am a motor trans elect man. little body work. dents waves and things. I do mean it. thank you.
Measure it from one side to the other. So from one sill to the other sill.
Having this measurement is useful....and if you want to make sure the sills do not splay part or come together. You will have to fabricate something up using a set of clamps and piece of steel rod and or angle iron that will allow you to clamp to these rocker channels/sills and then bolt or weld the steel going from side to side to these angle irons you have clamped to the sills.
KNOWING that the NUMBER ONE body mount...the one at the very front of the firewall is a given distance on the frame....so if you measure it ....and then fabricate up a gauge...you can slide under your body and make sure that the holes in the body are still where they need to be so the body will be able to be bolted in place as designed.
I don't see any cracks Stevelucy I see seam sealer that has been chipped off but no cracks. I think you're jumping in way too deep for your first vette.
you can completely remove the firewall, using the factory seams it was assembled with,
heat gun and putty knife, you do not cut anything, Drill out ALL rivets.
remove the firewall as 1 piece, make your repairs on the firewall and reinstall.
generally the firewall is removed only because it has delaminated, at the top under the windshield,
allowing water to leak in, if this is the case removal is required for proper bonding/gluing.
If your removing because of the cracks, your over doing it,
if not required due to delamination, fix the cracks on the firewall as it sits.
thank you all. yes I am getting water under the windshield. plus my door gap at the top was getting bigger. and you know what they say. go big or go home. yes a little more than planed. but I have restored. about 5 of my own cars.
Ok, in my opinion the only reason for this work is when the birdcage has rust under the polyester parts, but since you already have the clip off, it's not that much more, but still a lot of work.
the firewall is only held on by the rivets under the windshield and floor pans. I can move the firewall on each side by hand. try to load video but can not do it. not good with computers.
hay can someone tell me the best epoxy to bond the firewall. and is the front clip bonded with something different. if is what. I have used panel bond before. you can get rigid and semi rigid and flex. there are like 5 different kinds. help me if you know. thank you
05-28-2015, 07:08 AM
