Center Link
12-23-2015, 07:37 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Center Link
Haven’t been on in a while but certainly enjoying my 75 L-82 since. Need to have the Manual Steering Gearbox rebuilt. What’s the best way to separate the ball stud on the Center Link Damper from the Pittman Arm? 
Not sure there is a good way to get a Pickle Fork in there without damaging something on the Damper assembly. Loosen nut and tap from the top? The rag joint is in great shape but once I have it out, I’ll replace it anyway, since it is so inexpensive.
Not sure there is a good way to get a Pickle Fork in there without damaging something on the Damper assembly. Loosen nut and tap from the top? The rag joint is in great shape but once I have it out, I’ll replace it anyway, since it is so inexpensive.
12-23-2015, 08:46 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Great Plains Iowa
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Haven’t been on in a while but certainly enjoying my 75 L-82 since. Need to have the Manual Steering Gearbox rebuilt. What’s the best way to separate the ball stud on the Center Link Damper from the Pittman Arm? Not sure there is a good way to get a Pickle Fork in there without damaging something on the Damper assembly. Loosen nut and tap from the top? The rag joint is in great shape but once I have it out, I’ll replace it anyway, since it is so inexpensive.
Not sure there is a good way to get a Pickle Fork in there without damaging something on the Damper assembly. Loosen nut and tap from the top? The rag joint is in great shape but once I have it out, I’ll replace it anyway, since it is so inexpensive.I have always used two heavy hammers to release tapered studs. By placing one hammer on one side and beating it on the other side the stud will pop loose.
12-23-2015, 07:21 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
TBTR is right
I rented a heavy duty pittman arm removal tool. With standard length wrenches and all the grunting I could give did nothing.
Then I used the two hammer thing. My largest ball/peen hammer on one side and a two pound short handle maul on the other side. Two hits and a large bang, it was off!
From that point on I always use the two hammer trick to undo anything with a taper like ball joints, tie rod ends etc.
Then I used the two hammer thing. My largest ball/peen hammer on one side and a two pound short handle maul on the other side. Two hits and a large bang, it was off!
From that point on I always use the two hammer trick to undo anything with a taper like ball joints, tie rod ends etc.
Last edited by mikep3; 12-23-2015 at 07:29 PM.
12-23-2015, 08:14 PM
#4
Ball Joint Separator Tool -- Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#99849
Haven’t been on in a while but certainly enjoying my 75 L-82 since. Need to have the Manual Steering Gearbox rebuilt. What’s the best way to separate the ball stud on the Center Link Damper from the Pittman Arm? Not sure there is a good way to get a Pickle Fork in there without damaging something on the Damper assembly. Loosen nut and tap from the top? The rag joint is in great shape but once I have it out, I’ll replace it anyway, since it is so inexpensive.
Not sure there is a good way to get a Pickle Fork in there without damaging something on the Damper assembly. Loosen nut and tap from the top? The rag joint is in great shape but once I have it out, I’ll replace it anyway, since it is so inexpensive.
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DUB (12-24-2015)
12-24-2015, 07:18 PM
#5
Race Director
I am just not into beating on parts. Many of the Corvettes I work on would cause for me to have to deal with repairing the damage to them.
DUB
12-30-2015, 08:11 AM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Beat it like it owed me money!
I left the Pitman arm attached to the steering gear box and was beatin that thing like it owed me money (the damper ball joint) -
Just wasn't working. Used a block of hardwood to hit on - which soon disintegrated. Heated the relay rod with MAP gas and finally got it off after putting the steering wheel at the hard stop and hammering the relay rod downward in the vicinity of the damper. I had to lay a ball peen hammer sideways on top of the damper and strike the ball peen hammer. Finally cam off all good but I think I may have oval-ed the damper and beat the ID out of round, slightly. Well see how the job goes replacing the damper assy. I thought I might just use a "C"-clamp to correct the potential out of round condition if it is a problem getting the threaded end cap off. Wish me luck!!!