SwampeastMike

'79 L-82, fully optioned, Gymkhana suspension, 52k, highly stock.

Should have some time soon for working on the 'vette. Save a "twitchy" alarm and a driver window that refuses to adjust 100% properly, all accessory systems now working properly. Fluid, vacuum leaks and air/water intrusion all (finally) repaired. Brakes (regular and parking) working perfectly. The work has made great performance improvements.

Now it's time to start work on the steering and suspension.

Compared to cars of that general era that I drove when far newer (including a Z28) the power steering seems very heavy at low/no speed. I do however like the road feel when moving at any speed. Is this by design? If not, I can deal with the heavy steering at low/no speed and perhaps just wait for it to go out completely. Good idea or no?

The steering is very slightly loose around center. No side-to-side (or up-and-down) movement from either front wheel. Rag joint appears in excellent condition. It's been so long since I drove a car without rack-and-pinion steering that I've forgotten what recirculating ball felt like. Is this slight looseness around center normal? BTW, I scarcely notice that looseness anymore but certainly noticed it when the car was new to me. Friends who I let drive it always comment about such. If not normal, what can I do to tighten the steering?

The only suspension work I've done is to replace the front shocks which existed in name only. The ones I removed had absolutely zero dampening in either direction! I'm frankly surprised that it drove as well as it did. I replaced with shocks from NAPA that I was told were proper replacements for the heavy duty originals.

All of the bushings/etc.--I presume they are original--look to be in very good condition considering their age. I do though have a hard time believing that they are doing their job properly. (Nearly all the vacuum hoses looked in very good condition as well but replacing them made drastic improvements.)

Am I correct that the bushings/etc. are over-due for replacement no matter their apparent condition? If so, which are the relatively low-hanging fruit that I can replace myself? I have far more than "basic" mechanics' tools but no access to a lift. Other than the need to get a "loan-a-tool" spring compressor, the front suspension appears rather easy to disassemble and replace all components subject to wear. Is that correct?

The rear suspension however scares me. I've read numerous nasty reports here and elsewhere about reasonably skilled but trailing arm virgin mechanics having hideous problems with the rear suspension. Are any of the rear bushings reasonably easy to replace without moving those trailing arms?

Finally I also read that many? most? all? replacement bushings are garbage and that OEM replacements are long gone. Is this true? Is it only the replacement rubber bushings that suck? Are the polyurethane bushings OK? Please offer advice for the best quality replacements.

mortgageguy

I've done both front and rear. Had never done suspension work in my 64 years. The rear is not that much harder than the front. I sent the TA's and diff out for rebuild. To me, the control arm bushings were as difficult as the TA bolt.
As I understand it, our cars are not pure power steering, they are power assisted. It being a performance/sports car you want to feel the road more than a basic sedan.
My front rebuild made a significant difference in my 72, which had the original rubber, bushings, balljoints, pivot arms, idler arm, and shocks.
Rubber vs poly is a highly debated topic. My car is used solely as a cruiser, therefore, I chose to use rubber everywhere. I bought the kit from Wilcox that is specified as all US made parts. Best I could tell, all the components were Moog/federal mogul. The bushings were even marked with Harris or Harrison (can't remember exactly) which was exactly who made the original 44 yo bushings in my car.
If you aren't getting noises, I'd check the ride height specs for my car, if it's not drastically lower than factory height, I'd keep driving it. My front bushings were just gone in some locations, mine was popping, ride height over an inch lower, ride was harsh. I had to rebuild it. It was a very satisfying experience for me. Dirty, greasy grimy work. But my suspension, chasis is as clean and new as a 2016 sold in the last year.

Alan 71

Hi SM,
There will be lot's of suggestions of what to replace and with what parts, so…
I'll just caution you about a couple of things:
Since you say you'll be doing this with out the use of a lift be careful about jacking and supporting the car with jack stands while you're working on/under it. Make sure it can't fall on the ground or worse on you.
Secondly be careful when working with the both the front and rear springs. When in their compressed and loaded states they are storing a lot of energy and you don't want them to slip out of your control.
I don't mean to scare you, but rather just make you think about working carefully and safely!
The rear spring bushings, strut-rod bushings, and shock absorber bushings, can be replaced with the spring released but the t-arm still bolted in place in it's frame pocket.
Regards,
Alan

SwampeastMike

Great advice and suggestions gentlemen. Thanks!

mortgageguy: I have measured ride height against factory specs. The front is spot on. The right rear however is about 5/8" low and I think I hear a slight noise (a single quick chirp) from that corner when going over significant irregularities. The ride is quite firm but far from what I'd call "punishing". Good to know that you found good quality rubber replacements. I'd already read enough about rubber vs. poly to make my head spin and think that it was mainly a pis*ing contest You're the 2nd or third now who has said these cars have power "assist" so I'll assume mine is working at least somewhat as designed. I one tested with the p/s pump belt removed and it is certainly doing something.

Alan 71: Thanks for the words of caution. I am very cautious when lifting and supporting. Am also highly aware and respectful of the potential energy stored in compressed/torqued springs. Good to know that most/all of the rubber in the rear suspension can be replaced without removing the trailing arms.

Metalhead140

If your car is pretty rust free underneath, the trailing arms may not be a big deal. I replaced all the bushings in the suspension of my '79 last year, like yours mine was all original, but the bushings were looking rather tired, and turned out to be terrible when it got everything apart. While the bolts for the trailing arms are not in the easiest place for access, I didn't have any great difficulty getting it all apart. Can't recall specifically if I used any penetrating fluid first, but I probably did (normally spray all bolts when starting a job like that), but it all came apart ok. I probably could have even reused the bolts, but I didn't, I'd bought replacement bolts and stainless shims. I've read lots of nightmare stories too, but I also see a lot of chassis on here covered in rust, whereas my car was extremely rust free.

Edit: If your cars bushes are anywhere near as bad as mine were, the new spring bolt bushes in the rear will raise the rear significantly. Also, to replace the front balljoints you will need to remove the original rivets holding them to the control arms. I cut the majority of the heads off with an angle grinder then beat the the remainder through (I used and air hammer, but a regular hammer and punch would have worked also), but most other posts I've read recommend using a chisel attachment on an air hammer to remove the rivet head. I used moog balljoints/tie rods/idler arm. I also used poly bushes, but I was also making other modifications toward improved handling.

Finally, my understanding is that the factory power assist steering provides a constant level of assist, so steering will be lighter at speed than at rest. I personally found the power steering too light for my tastes, and drove with the belt off for a little while before doing the suspension and steering rebuild, and swapping to a borgeson box. The borgeson steering box provides assist based on effort (like a modern power steering), and while I still feel it is a bit overassisted, it provides much better assist across all conditions. I should note that most of my background is driving British sports cars with manual rack and pinion steering, so my feel for the power steering may be quite different to other people...