Power Window Motor
09-22-2016, 02:03 PM
#2
Not saying they arent available but I have never seen a vendor selling the internal components
09-22-2016, 07:16 PM
#3
Race Director
I may understand why you may want to rebuild it....because the size (length) of your window motor and the bracket that is attached to it is specific to the area on the porthole access plate so you can secure the motor to the porthole plate..
I have not seen any parts...but there are people who can rebuild them.
I myself...have taken them apart...but do no waste my time doing it any longer...it would cost my customers more money than buying one....unless it is a specific scenario like this.
DUB
I have not seen any parts...but there are people who can rebuild them.
I myself...have taken them apart...but do no waste my time doing it any longer...it would cost my customers more money than buying one....unless it is a specific scenario like this.
DUB
09-22-2016, 09:07 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I may understand why you may want to rebuild it....because the size (length) of your window motor and the bracket that is attached to it is specific to the area on the porthole access plate so you can secure the motor to the porthole plate..
I have not seen any parts...but there are people who can rebuild them.
I myself...have taken them apart...but do no waste my time doing it any longer...it would cost my customers more money than buying one....unless it is a specific scenario like this.
DUB
I have not seen any parts...but there are people who can rebuild them.
I myself...have taken them apart...but do no waste my time doing it any longer...it would cost my customers more money than buying one....unless it is a specific scenario like this.
DUB
09-22-2016, 09:51 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
call Doc's corvettes in Tulsa, Ok. for parts corvette salvage yard. cleaning & lube will help the motor to operate easier, almost like new.
Last edited by lvmyvt76; 09-22-2016 at 09:52 PM.
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Tim81 (09-22-2016)
09-23-2016, 06:37 PM
#6
Race Director
Such as the brush length and life. And if the armature and the bushing are out of whack.
So it is a guessing game.
Think of it like a starter....you can tare it apart and clean and lube it but if the brushes, bushing and armature are all out of whack...it literally is a waste of time.
Flip a coin.
DUB
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Tim81 (09-23-2016)
09-23-2016, 09:50 PM
#7
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Tim.. Rebuild it yourself..
Pull the motor apart..
Go online and find you a brush file... or if you are creative use some light weight sand paper on a dowel rod equal to the curve of the armature. When filing the brushes it's key that the curvature of the brush match that of the angel of the commutator.
File the brushes, test the commutator (you won't have a growler to do this but you can with a multi meter, there are plenty of Youtube Video's to help you).
Clean and polish the commutator, clean the gears, check the bushings, grease, and re-install... and test.. it's not hard to do.. When setting the backlash on the armature, you turn it to zero clearance and then back it off 1/8 of a turn.
Willcox.
Pull the motor apart..
Go online and find you a brush file... or if you are creative use some light weight sand paper on a dowel rod equal to the curve of the armature. When filing the brushes it's key that the curvature of the brush match that of the angel of the commutator.
File the brushes, test the commutator (you won't have a growler to do this but you can with a multi meter, there are plenty of Youtube Video's to help you).
Clean and polish the commutator, clean the gears, check the bushings, grease, and re-install... and test.. it's not hard to do.. When setting the backlash on the armature, you turn it to zero clearance and then back it off 1/8 of a turn.
Willcox.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 09-23-2016 at 09:51 PM.
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Tim81 (09-23-2016)
09-23-2016, 10:26 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tim.. Rebuild it yourself..
Pull the motor apart..
Go online and find you a brush file... or if you are creative use some light weight sand paper on a dowel rod equal to the curve of the armature. When filing the brushes it's key that the curvature of the brush match that of the angel of the commutator.
File the brushes, test the commutator (you won't have a growler to do this but you can with a multi meter, there are plenty of Youtube Video's to help you).
Clean and polish the commutator, clean the gears, check the bushings, grease, and re-install... and test.. it's not hard to do.. When setting the backlash on the armature, you turn it to zero clearance and then back it off 1/8 of a turn.
Willcox.
Pull the motor apart..
Go online and find you a brush file... or if you are creative use some light weight sand paper on a dowel rod equal to the curve of the armature. When filing the brushes it's key that the curvature of the brush match that of the angel of the commutator.
File the brushes, test the commutator (you won't have a growler to do this but you can with a multi meter, there are plenty of Youtube Video's to help you).
Clean and polish the commutator, clean the gears, check the bushings, grease, and re-install... and test.. it's not hard to do.. When setting the backlash on the armature, you turn it to zero clearance and then back it off 1/8 of a turn.
Willcox.
09-23-2016, 10:28 PM
#9
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
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1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Tim.. you get stuck.. shoot me a message.. My guys do this on a weekly basis.. it's not a hard job to do.. the main time eater for us is cleaning up the housings, painting them and making them look new... the internals is easy.
Ernie
Ernie
09-25-2016, 04:32 PM
#10
Team Owner
Kudos to Willcox for suggesting that you try disassembly yourself. In these kind of situations YOU LOSE ABSOLUTELY NOTHING by digging into the part and investigating possible repairs.
If you trash it during disassembly...IT DIDN'T WORK ANYWAY...so you just buy a new one like you throught you might need to do.
Most likely problem areas on motor: worn out brushes (easy to replace if you can purchase them); commutator worn out (segmented copper drum brushes run on) [no fix...replace the part]; filthy inside from brush wear/grease/dirt [clean it out]; bushing[s] worn out [not sure its worth it to fool around to fix it]. Very unlikely that the armature (coils) or wiring has any problem, but it would be good to check them out.
Lastly, if this work is to help the window raise faster, the linkages and rollers on the lift hardware is more likely the problem. You could also have dirty/burned/corroded switch contacts in the up/down switches. Check these out before you even work to remove the motor.
If you trash it during disassembly...IT DIDN'T WORK ANYWAY...so you just buy a new one like you throught you might need to do.
Most likely problem areas on motor: worn out brushes (easy to replace if you can purchase them); commutator worn out (segmented copper drum brushes run on) [no fix...replace the part]; filthy inside from brush wear/grease/dirt [clean it out]; bushing[s] worn out [not sure its worth it to fool around to fix it]. Very unlikely that the armature (coils) or wiring has any problem, but it would be good to check them out.
Lastly, if this work is to help the window raise faster, the linkages and rollers on the lift hardware is more likely the problem. You could also have dirty/burned/corroded switch contacts in the up/down switches. Check these out before you even work to remove the motor.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 09-25-2016 at 04:34 PM.
09-25-2016, 10:36 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Kudos to Willcox for suggesting that you try disassembly yourself. In these kind of situations YOU LOSE ABSOLUTELY NOTHING by digging into the part and investigating possible repairs.
If you trash it during disassembly...IT DIDN'T WORK ANYWAY...so you just buy a new one like you throught you might need to do.
Most likely problem areas on motor: worn out brushes (easy to replace if you can purchase them); commutator worn out (segmented copper drum brushes run on) [no fix...replace the part]; filthy inside from brush wear/grease/dirt [clean it out]; bushing[s] worn out [not sure its worth it to fool around to fix it]. Very unlikely that the armature (coils) or wiring has any problem, but it would be good to check them out.
Lastly, if this work is to help the window raise faster, the linkages and rollers on the lift hardware is more likely the problem. You could also have dirty/burned/corroded switch contacts in the up/down switches. Check these out before you even work to remove the motor.
If you trash it during disassembly...IT DIDN'T WORK ANYWAY...so you just buy a new one like you throught you might need to do.
Most likely problem areas on motor: worn out brushes (easy to replace if you can purchase them); commutator worn out (segmented copper drum brushes run on) [no fix...replace the part]; filthy inside from brush wear/grease/dirt [clean it out]; bushing[s] worn out [not sure its worth it to fool around to fix it]. Very unlikely that the armature (coils) or wiring has any problem, but it would be good to check them out.
Lastly, if this work is to help the window raise faster, the linkages and rollers on the lift hardware is more likely the problem. You could also have dirty/burned/corroded switch contacts in the up/down switches. Check these out before you even work to remove the motor.
09-26-2016, 06:22 PM
#12
Race Director
Thanks for the advice, the rollers and assist springs were replaced a couple of years ago. The motors have always been slow going up but have gotten much worse since I replaced the weather stripping and felts. I have tried many different adjustments nothing seem to help once the glass rubs the weather stripping. I hoping a more powerful motor will help.
Hopefully you are checking your power window motors with the engine running...I always do.
IF you check how fast the windows go up and down when the door is open and NOT being effected by the weatherstrips...and the motor goes fast enough to your liking.
BUT..when you go and try to have it go up when the door is shut. A lot of it can have to do with the door glass blinding on dense aftermarket weatherstrips.
The type of weatherstrips you installed CAN make a difference. The rear vertical w/s that you pop riveted in the 'B' pillar should be soft and spongy and LITERALLY like a marshmallow.....and the windshield pillars also....and the T-tops also. SO...hopefully you used latex weatherstrips. IF NOT...and knowing this started when you replaced the w/strips...can be a part of the problem or the actual problem itself.
But what do I know....
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 09-26-2016 at 06:27 PM.
09-26-2016, 08:56 PM
#13
Team Owner
If the weatherstrips are too 'grippy', you might put a couple of wipes of Nu-Vinyl or Meguiar's protectant for plastics on them...or at least on the surfaces that contact the glass. Those protectants are polymer based and will not damage the weatherstrips. In fact, I wipe all of my weatherstips down with Nu-Vinyl just so they won't stick and also so they will not get hard/brittle. Used it for years. Great stuff.
09-27-2016, 11:48 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
Take a battery and some jumpers, connect the jumpers to some 14 gauge (or whatever you have that is big enough) wire and connect the wire to the connectors on the motors. If the motors run faster and more powerfully this way then your problem is not with the motors. Likely a voltage drop through the switch or other connectors.
If you find that the motors are weak then your overhaul option is next. Old dried grease on gears and bushings can add a lot of drag.
If the motor brushes need replaced you can get brushes from a motor/alternator repair shop or on line, ebay is one place. I have taken brushes that don't fit into the holders and just sanded them down to the right dimension to fit and they work fine. Brushes are very soft and easy to shape. All you need is a soldering iron and some solder to change them on the brush block.
The commutator may have some wear and that can be sanded smooth by chucking it in a drill and spinning it while holding the sand paper against the commutator. Just finish with 400 to 600 grit for a nice smooth finish. Start with whatever grit makes sense given the level of wear. I've even started with a file if there is a large ridge next to where the brush usually runs or deep grooves.
Any bushings and the mating shaft can be made smooth with 600 grit sand paper, then clean and lube prior to assembly. A light grease, or if a felt soaker is present then oil in the soaker and on the bushing and shaft. Since I haven't taken one of these motors apart I don't know if any bearings are present. Unlikely, but if so give them a cleaning and re-greasing.
Blow out all the accumulated brush dust, careful as it will likely be very dusty and not pleasant to breathe.
If you find that the motors are weak then your overhaul option is next. Old dried grease on gears and bushings can add a lot of drag.
If the motor brushes need replaced you can get brushes from a motor/alternator repair shop or on line, ebay is one place. I have taken brushes that don't fit into the holders and just sanded them down to the right dimension to fit and they work fine. Brushes are very soft and easy to shape. All you need is a soldering iron and some solder to change them on the brush block.
The commutator may have some wear and that can be sanded smooth by chucking it in a drill and spinning it while holding the sand paper against the commutator. Just finish with 400 to 600 grit for a nice smooth finish. Start with whatever grit makes sense given the level of wear. I've even started with a file if there is a large ridge next to where the brush usually runs or deep grooves.
Any bushings and the mating shaft can be made smooth with 600 grit sand paper, then clean and lube prior to assembly. A light grease, or if a felt soaker is present then oil in the soaker and on the bushing and shaft. Since I haven't taken one of these motors apart I don't know if any bearings are present. Unlikely, but if so give them a cleaning and re-greasing.
Blow out all the accumulated brush dust, careful as it will likely be very dusty and not pleasant to breathe.
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Tim81 (09-27-2016)