antfarmer2

good job I just jack up the right rear and let it bubble out as I fill. heat and repeat if needed. easyer and safer than the bleeders.

pcolt94

Excellent, I guess the valve adjusting took care of it.

Just bleed both brass air escape screws till fluid comes out. Then fill the overflow tank to the cold mark (or slightly above) and drive the car to op temperature. Then let it cool over night and the tank will probably be low. Fill it again to the mark and do another cycle hot and cold. Takes me about 3 cycles till everything stabilizes and all the air is out of the system.

qws

This coolant now is become an issue. I've done at least 3 heat cycles so far. The car is on a kwik lift so its angle up. Bleed the air out the bleeder valve during the process. But after 10-15 min's analog gauge is at 260, the digital takes a bit longer naturally.... but it hits 228 the first fan turns on... then at 235 the second fan turns on... but its not dropping in temp. Water pump and T-stat are new. (T-stat is for a LT1). This is all happening at idle.

Head gaskets are new... as always I followed the FSM for tq specs,etc.

Any thoughts as to whats going on? radiator?

Tom400CFI

Once the Tstat opens (by 190, it's OPEN), rev the engine. Doing so will circulate the coolant faster and push any air bubbles along, helping you burp them either through the bleeders, or into the surge tank. The LT1 SHOULD be easy to fill/bleed. Every time I do it, car is level, I open both bleeders, fill until I get coolant from the bleeders. Close bleeders, top off and I'm done. It definitely sounds like you have air in there. Heater work? If no, then you don't even have enough coolant in there for the pump to pump. If yes...then at least you've gotten that far. Get it up to ~190, and goose it for a second...then see if she'll take more coolant.

qws

I haven't even tried the heater since I've only been running the car for 10-15 min's at a time before it heats up. I've put in 3 gals so far of antifreeze including what I added into the overflow tank.
I've never if had a problem bleeding the air out of the 94, however I know of the bleeder on the Tstat, but where is the second one?

pcolt94

When the engine is coolish, remove the cap on the surge tank. Rev up the engine a bit and look in the tank. The level should drop slightly and a good flow should be evident.

I hate to ask this, did you install the coupling for the shaft between the pump and the cam?

qws

I never had the cam out. Only replaced water pump

When the car is running I get a nice steady flow of coolant out the bleeder, no air. Regardless of temp.Note: I did bypass the coolant to the TB

Once at temp, if I have the cap off and I give it a rev... coolant comes out the top so I put the cap back on

When I shut it down... I go back to the bleeder valve and nothing but air.

I'm thinking the radiator isn't flowing. And BTW, its clean between the radiator and condesensor

Tom400CFI

Does the radiator get hot once the T-stat opens? Or, when the fan(s) come on, are they blowing hot air? If Yes on either of those, radiator is flowing. You should be able to check the heat w/in your operating time frame...though it sounds like you've determined that coolant is flowing.

What makes you feel that the radiator may not be flowing? Was it having temp issues before being taken apart?

qws

My Gut...lol

I'll look into this today. I've only driven the car about 5 miles before this project. it did have a over heat issue, but I attributed it to the head gasket at the time.

I have to clean the contacts for the heater control. It randomly likes to be picky. I'll see if I can get it to adjust up. And report back.

I'll have to look at a flow diagram for this cooling system, the FSM I have is on CD so I should check it out.

antfarmer2

if it only took 3 gal you did not pull the knocks and do a proper flush. alot of crap stays in there. go by your digital the analog lies. as said before pull you cap and watch the flow as you throttle up. when you do idle some will come out. the other bleeder is a bit further to the pass side and a bit forward if memory serves me right it does hide. I found it better just to jack up the right rear about a foot and let it bubble out as you fill and let it settle out repeat if needed.

WVZR-1

OP - This could be a very valid question. When asked you mentioned only replacing the pump.

qws

The new OEM pump came with a gear that slide into the coupling that comes out the timing cover which I assume is what your refering to

WVZR-1

Yes - it needed to be asked even though the coolant quantity that you've used certainly seemed to indicate that you had.

antfarmer2

I believe they are making sure you put the coupling back in.

pcolt94

No you done understand. It is the piece that couples the water pump to the engine. It's a spline shaft that protrudes from the timing cover. A hollow cylinder with splines goes on it and the other side connects to the water pump. ( I used the term "cam" earlier which was wrong as I was thinking of the opti).

With good light you can actually see the spline coupling behind the pump.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/lt1-water-pump-drive

start at 7 minutes

qws

I'm gonna look into this coupling a bit more... so far something doesn't look right behind there on the water pump, that coupling was on there, but I'm not sure if I'm seeing in. I'll get some better light and see if maybe I knock it off when installing the new one.


Some updates

Started car, turned heater on high...
digital temp 235
Analog- over 260 - I understand the issues with the analog, however just posting the status

Surge tank-- gurgles like crazy
upper and lower radiator hoses - cold
radiator- cold
NO HEAT.

Tom400CFI

There it is....you're not circulating coolant. you either don't have enough coolant in there to circulate....or your pump drive is not installed.


.

qws

Ill be a S>OB!... coupling isn't there.
Good call Pcolt94

It was on when I was fitting it up... It must of dropped off during final installation.

Hopefully I can find that coupling and where it dropped
thanks guys

antfarmer2

you did use sealer on the waterpump bolts? might look into putting a new seal in too.
I put the coupling in the engine then put the pump on it.

Tom400CFI

Indeed. That was a good one.