95 No Start
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
95 No Start
Having an issue getting it started after a repair.
It sounds off, but not figuring out where I went wrong just yet
New Head Gaskets
New Reman Heads
New Lifters/rockers
New water pump
I'm getting both fuel and spark
starter was working fine before the repair
Battery is charged up to 100%
I wonder if I'm a 180 degrees out... when I adjusted the rockers they were both down when #1 piston was up , unless they are to tight?
It sounds off, but not figuring out where I went wrong just yet
New Head Gaskets
New Reman Heads
New Lifters/rockers
New water pump
I'm getting both fuel and spark
starter was working fine before the repair
Battery is charged up to 100%
I wonder if I'm a 180 degrees out... when I adjusted the rockers they were both down when #1 piston was up , unless they are to tight?
Last edited by qws; Nov 27, 2015 at 05:56 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Ok a fully charged batt will crank the eng more than 3 turns qws. So did u run the batt down or have u tested the batt? This is what i use for a batt tester and have at least 2 of them: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-61747.html
In 1 minute it will measure batt voltage, load test/batt strength and if car starts measure charging voltage. As for what that video shows is dead/dying batt.
In 1 minute it will measure batt voltage, load test/batt strength and if car starts measure charging voltage. As for what that video shows is dead/dying batt.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
Ok a fully charged batt will crank the eng more than 3 turns qws. So did u run the batt down or have u tested the batt? This is what i use for a batt tester and have at least 2 of them: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-61747.html
In 1 minute it will measure batt voltage, load test/batt strength and if car starts measure charging voltage. As for what that video shows is dead/dying batt.
In 1 minute it will measure batt voltage, load test/batt strength and if car starts measure charging voltage. As for what that video shows is dead/dying batt.
What I will do since it will only take me a few min's is pop the battery out and run it over to get tested quick
Last edited by qws; Nov 27, 2015 at 06:22 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
There is a little triangle pointer on the balancer on the front of the engine. This is somewhat hidden on the inside of the balancer (they sure don't make it easy!!!). This triangle should be at 12 o'clock when you go to adjust the valves compression in #1 cylinder. Then adjust the "standard GM" method of both intake and exhaust for #1 then half the intake and half the exhaust. Turn 360 and adjust the other half.
This is one of those things that you can't be 180 like with a normal distributor.
This is one of those things that you can't be 180 like with a normal distributor.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
So, I took the batt to advanced to have it tested, it did test after there charge with only 490 cca , so I went ahead and bought a new one.. installed it and it sounds the same as the video above.
So I'll go ahead and pull the plugs and open the valve covers up and go thru adjust the rocker arms again and see what happens.
Plug wires are in the correct locations, so the only other thing can be those rockers I think.
So I'll go ahead and pull the plugs and open the valve covers up and go thru adjust the rocker arms again and see what happens.
Plug wires are in the correct locations, so the only other thing can be those rockers I think.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
So if your new batt does the same rrrrryyyoo, rrrryyo, rrry..o u need to get more juice to the starter. I can crank my LT1 camaro faster than that for minutes when the batt is charged. Test your resistance from batt to starter and ground from starter to batt. May need to pull the starter and have that tested also.
The normal diagnostics would say scan for codes and u should do that also. Next would be check for spark. Do u have a timing light? Most spark testers are only $10 these days. Next would be move to check fuel press. But ya know something is really dragging the starter qws. It looks like u have multiple problems. Starter + ign timing or maybe the fuel press.
The normal diagnostics would say scan for codes and u should do that also. Next would be check for spark. Do u have a timing light? Most spark testers are only $10 these days. Next would be move to check fuel press. But ya know something is really dragging the starter qws. It looks like u have multiple problems. Starter + ign timing or maybe the fuel press.
Last edited by cardo0; Nov 27, 2015 at 08:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
So if your new batt does the same rrrrryyyoo, rrrryyo, rrry..o u need to get more juice to the starter. I can crank my LT1 camaro faster than that for minutes when the batt is charged. Test your resistance from batt to starter and ground from starter to batt. May need to pull the starter and have that tested also.
The normal diagnostics would say scan for codes and u should do that also. Next would be check for spark. Do u have a timing light? Most spark testers are only $10 these days. Next would be move to check fuel press. But ya know something is really dragging the starter qws. It looks like u have multiple problems. Starter + ign timing or maybe the fuel press.
The normal diagnostics would say scan for codes and u should do that also. Next would be check for spark. Do u have a timing light? Most spark testers are only $10 these days. Next would be move to check fuel press. But ya know something is really dragging the starter qws. It looks like u have multiple problems. Starter + ign timing or maybe the fuel press.
I'm getting both fuel and spark
starter was working fine before the repair
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
There is a little triangle pointer on the balancer on the front of the engine. This is somewhat hidden on the inside of the balancer (they sure don't make it easy!!!). This triangle should be at 12 o'clock when you go to adjust the valves compression in #1 cylinder. Then adjust the "standard GM" method of both intake and exhaust for #1 then half the intake and half the exhaust. Turn 360 and adjust the other half.
This is one of those things that you can't be 180 like with a normal distributor.
This is one of those things that you can't be 180 like with a normal distributor.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
For anyone intersted there's that PITA triangle that is so easy to see.
Number one cyl at compression cycle of TDC
The rockers seem overtighten by quite a bit. I'm readjusting now using a slightly different method this time.
I'll update later tonight as I progress
Number one cyl at compression cycle of TDC
The rockers seem overtighten by quite a bit. I'm readjusting now using a slightly different method this time.
I'll update later tonight as I progress
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Yea #2 intake looks like its flattened to coil bind. #4 exh looks pretty bad also. Take a feeler gauge and see what u can get between the coils. U should have at least 0.008".
U need to adj the rockers/lifters when cam is on base circle. U can use the opposing cyl in overlap to observe this. When cyl #1 is on compression ready to fire w/both vlvs shut and ready to adjust lifters on their base cirlce of cam cyl #6 will have both vlvs open in overlap. Then when cyl #1 is in overlap then #6 vlvs are shut ready to fire and be adjusted. Same thing for cyl pairs 8&5, 4&7, 3&2. Next is to feel zero lash by rolling the p-rod w/your fingers until no up and down drag - p-rod just turns but almost no drag. Now add your 1 full turn preload.
Can u explain why the engine turns so slowly and seems to slow way down with just a few turns? U say it did that before the upgrades or not??
U need to adj the rockers/lifters when cam is on base circle. U can use the opposing cyl in overlap to observe this. When cyl #1 is on compression ready to fire w/both vlvs shut and ready to adjust lifters on their base cirlce of cam cyl #6 will have both vlvs open in overlap. Then when cyl #1 is in overlap then #6 vlvs are shut ready to fire and be adjusted. Same thing for cyl pairs 8&5, 4&7, 3&2. Next is to feel zero lash by rolling the p-rod w/your fingers until no up and down drag - p-rod just turns but almost no drag. Now add your 1 full turn preload.
Can u explain why the engine turns so slowly and seems to slow way down with just a few turns? U say it did that before the upgrades or not??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
Yea #2 intake looks like its flattened to coil bind. #4 exh looks pretty bad also. Take a feeler gauge and see what u can get between the coils. U should have at least 0.008".
U need to adj the rockers/lifters when cam is on base circle. U can use the opposing cyl in overlap to observe this. When cyl #1 is on compression ready to fire w/both vlvs shut and ready to adjust lifters on their base cirlce of cam cyl #6 will have both vlvs open in overlap. Then when cyl #1 is in overlap then #6 vlvs are shut ready to fire and be adjusted. Same thing for cyl pairs 8&5, 4&7, 3&2. Next is to feel zero lash by rolling the p-rod w/your fingers until no up and down drag - p-rod just turns but almost no drag. Now add your 1 full turn preload.
Can u explain why the engine turns so slowly and seems to slow way down with just a few turns? U say it did that before the upgrades or not??
U need to adj the rockers/lifters when cam is on base circle. U can use the opposing cyl in overlap to observe this. When cyl #1 is on compression ready to fire w/both vlvs shut and ready to adjust lifters on their base cirlce of cam cyl #6 will have both vlvs open in overlap. Then when cyl #1 is in overlap then #6 vlvs are shut ready to fire and be adjusted. Same thing for cyl pairs 8&5, 4&7, 3&2. Next is to feel zero lash by rolling the p-rod w/your fingers until no up and down drag - p-rod just turns but almost no drag. Now add your 1 full turn preload.
Can u explain why the engine turns so slowly and seems to slow way down with just a few turns? U say it did that before the upgrades or not??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Did you have the opti removed? If you did not get the alignment correct, the timing will be off and it will not start. Unlike the 92-94 where it's more easy to misalign, they say the 95-96 is impossible to misalign but it's not. I have read threads where it was misaligned and assembled. You might consider taking a look.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Nothing wrong w/that starter...or your original battery (related to your problem).
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
The opti was never removed, the problem I think is still in the rocker adjustment. I wish I bought a set of roller rockers for it. They seemed easy to adjust vs the stock. There a PITA.. but it at least runs.
Last edited by qws; Nov 28, 2015 at 08:10 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 206
From: Orlando FL
Just wondering, when you pulled the pump, did you keep the opti dry, get it wet or drown it.
A little water is not always the kiss of death, but could be a consideration.
These days I pull the stat, put a tube down the pump and suck all the fluid out I can. Then put a rag on top of the opti before I pull the pump loose.
A little water is not always the kiss of death, but could be a consideration.
These days I pull the stat, put a tube down the pump and suck all the fluid out I can. Then put a rag on top of the opti before I pull the pump loose.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 4
From: Clifton Park NY
I don't mind having to go thru them again. I can get it ready to adjust in about 15 min's..lol I am wondering however if I was rotating the motor the wrong way when coming to TDC. or if that would make a differance. I picked up a remote start today and notice the engine turns clockwise... not counter clockwise.
As far as the Opti.. it was kept dry. Getting them wet doesn't bother me. I've gotten my wifes 94 wet a few times (haha).... as long as its dried good I've never had a problem
As far as the Opti.. it was kept dry. Getting them wet doesn't bother me. I've gotten my wifes 94 wet a few times (haha).... as long as its dried good I've never had a problem
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Just wondering, when you pulled the pump, did you keep the opti dry, get it wet or drown it.
A little water is not always the kiss of death, but could be a consideration.
These days I pull the stat, put a tube down the pump and suck all the fluid out I can. Then put a rag on top of the opti before I pull the pump loose.
A little water is not always the kiss of death, but could be a consideration.
These days I pull the stat, put a tube down the pump and suck all the fluid out I can. Then put a rag on top of the opti before I pull the pump loose.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
It doesn't matter. All that matters is you end up w/the rock(s) you're adjusting are on the base circle, not on the lobe at all. If you really want to "get basic" about it, pick a cylinder, rotate the engine, the exhaust rocker will cycle, followed by the intake, when the intake closes, go another ~1/2 turn of the crank and you know you're off any lobes for that cylinder. Adjust. Move on.