Glowing Headers after cam install????
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Glowing Headers after cam install????
Help!
Did I goof up the timing chain?
Whats the deal, I added a cam (springs double roller chain), the car started right up, idled fine but after about 5 minutes the headers were glowing! Pretty much all of them.
My car has headers, exhaust, intake and now a mid sized cam (230 227)cam, this is all with a stock tune. (Dealer reflashed my pcm a couple weeks ago) I didnt check out teh heaaders before the cam install but I don't think they were glowing.
Did I goof up the timing chain?
Whats the deal, I added a cam (springs double roller chain), the car started right up, idled fine but after about 5 minutes the headers were glowing! Pretty much all of them.
My car has headers, exhaust, intake and now a mid sized cam (230 227)cam, this is all with a stock tune. (Dealer reflashed my pcm a couple weeks ago) I didnt check out teh heaaders before the cam install but I don't think they were glowing.
#2
Glowing headers. I have heard of this happening before and in the case I recall it was a problem with A/F ratios. Can't remember whether it was too lean or too rich but I am guessing too lean. That might be a place to start.
Do a general search under "glowing headers" and you will find quite a bit of information on this. Good luck.
Do a general search under "glowing headers" and you will find quite a bit of information on this. Good luck.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 02-12-2005 at 10:29 PM.
#5
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Old Timer
To rich. Fuel is still burning after leaving the cylinder and entering the headers. Been there, done that.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Too rich? What would cause that? I figured I'd be lean with all those mods and no tune? Is it the reverse split cam? Also would that cause the "reduced power" mode to kick in? Or maybe I forgot to plug in a wire somewhere since that message appeared before I even started it?
I'm not sure I can even drive it to get tuned.
How can I be sure the lower timing sprocket was put on right. I lined up the notch and dot with the old one, but now after reading the directions again I think it may be 2 degrees off....AARRRGHH!
Thanks
Dave
I'm not sure I can even drive it to get tuned.
How can I be sure the lower timing sprocket was put on right. I lined up the notch and dot with the old one, but now after reading the directions again I think it may be 2 degrees off....AARRRGHH!
Thanks
Dave
#9
Race Director
For starters, have the car sent to a tuner and have it tuned. That can eliminate the rich/lean factor as a probable cause.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I just found out that I'm a dope...While I still think we may have advanced or retarded the timing 2 degrees I did find that the throttle body was not plugged in, it could not open thus no air could get in.
I let it idle for about 1/2 hour and the headers were measuring from 350-400 degrees, I think that would be about normal. Certaintly did not begin to glow after 5 minutes.
Now, if the timing gear is on wrong can a tune compensate for the 2 degrees it may be off?? Will it hurt the engine? Is there any way to tell without taking it apart? Should I take it apart just to be sure, yuk!
The saga continues...
I let it idle for about 1/2 hour and the headers were measuring from 350-400 degrees, I think that would be about normal. Certaintly did not begin to glow after 5 minutes.
Now, if the timing gear is on wrong can a tune compensate for the 2 degrees it may be off?? Will it hurt the engine? Is there any way to tell without taking it apart? Should I take it apart just to be sure, yuk!
The saga continues...
#12
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: Troy MI
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Originally Posted by CYA-Vett
Thanks guys, I just found out that I'm a dope...While I still think we may have advanced or retarded the timing 2 degrees I did find that the throttle body was not plugged in, it could not open thus no air could get in.
I let it idle for about 1/2 hour and the headers were measuring from 350-400 degrees, I think that would be about normal. Certaintly did not begin to glow after 5 minutes.
Now, if the timing gear is on wrong can a tune compensate for the 2 degrees it may be off?? Will it hurt the engine? Is there any way to tell without taking it apart? Should I take it apart just to be sure, yuk!
The saga continues...
I let it idle for about 1/2 hour and the headers were measuring from 350-400 degrees, I think that would be about normal. Certaintly did not begin to glow after 5 minutes.
Now, if the timing gear is on wrong can a tune compensate for the 2 degrees it may be off?? Will it hurt the engine? Is there any way to tell without taking it apart? Should I take it apart just to be sure, yuk!
The saga continues...
On my cam I would be afraid that the pistons would smack the valves, especially at higher RPM if the cam was off even two degree.
I realize the steering is a pain to get off, and the crank bolt and all, but a few hours of extra work would be worth the piece of mind to me.
When I did my cam swap, my crank pulley wasn't torqued enough even though I followed the specs, so I had do do the same thing and take the front of the engine apart again.
just my $.02, I hope it works out well.
#14
Safety Car
Member Since: Jun 2003
Location: Sunshine State
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Originally Posted by msuc5vette
I woud wait to talk to the tuner who speced the cam, but if you don't think you lined them up right IMHO double check it!
On my cam I would be afraid that the pistons would smack the valves, especially at higher RPM if the cam was off even two degree.
I realize the steering is a pain to get off, and the crank bolt and all, but a few hours of extra work would be worth the piece of mind to me.
When I did my cam swap, my crank pulley wasn't torqued enough even though I followed the specs, so I had do do the same thing and take the front of the engine apart again.
just my $.02, I hope it works out well.
On my cam I would be afraid that the pistons would smack the valves, especially at higher RPM if the cam was off even two degree.
I realize the steering is a pain to get off, and the crank bolt and all, but a few hours of extra work would be worth the piece of mind to me.
When I did my cam swap, my crank pulley wasn't torqued enough even though I followed the specs, so I had do do the same thing and take the front of the engine apart again.
just my $.02, I hope it works out well.
Bob
#15
Safety Car
Now, if the timing gear is on wrong can a tune compensate for the 2 degrees it may be off??
Ignition/Spark timing can be changed with "Tuning" - simply by changing spark timing tables.
Valve Timing is a mechanical relationship and can only be changed via mechanical means i.e. Timing Set (cam gear/crank gear/chain). You are talking about valve timing - Sorry.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Then I guess it will have to come apart just to be sure...
I am assuming there is no way to tell if we have it right or not without visually checking???
I guess I'm lucky nothing broke when it was idling.
Can anyone list the parts I need to remove to get to the chain? I think I can leave the radiator in, or will there not be enough room?
Will I need to unbolt the rockers to turn the cam to line up the dots?
Needs to come off:
Throttle body, rack, water pump, balancer, sway bar, power steering pump...
I am assuming there is no way to tell if we have it right or not without visually checking???
I guess I'm lucky nothing broke when it was idling.
Can anyone list the parts I need to remove to get to the chain? I think I can leave the radiator in, or will there not be enough room?
Will I need to unbolt the rockers to turn the cam to line up the dots?
Needs to come off:
Throttle body, rack, water pump, balancer, sway bar, power steering pump...
#17
Team Owner
Which way are you off do you know? I would contact the people you bought it from prior to pulling it apart again. Some people do install them advanced or retarded. It will shift the power curve. Not sure if one tooth is only two degrees though.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Which way are you off do you know? I would contact the people you bought it from prior to pulling it apart again. Some people do install them advanced or retarded. It will shift the power curve. Not sure if one tooth is only two degrees though.
#19
If you do take it apart, I'd recommend indexing the cam rather than trusting the dots. Do you have an adjustable sprocket? That's the only true way to know you've got it dialed in right. Otherwise, you could still be off 2 degrees (you'd just not know it).