disassemble alternator?
#3
Team Owner
I have been wanting to do the same. The Service Manual doesn't seem to have any procedures. I believe you need to press some parts off of the shafts from what I found in using Google on this, but nothing specific. I was going to polish and chrome mine but can't figure out if I can disassemble it, and with my luck I will get it apart and not back together
#6
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CI 3-5-6-7-8 Veteran
Man I love the look w/ the coil packs relocated... looks so nice. If anyone finds a how-to I'd love to paint mine w/ my textured black paint like I did my valve covers, coil pack brackets, and throttle body.
#7
Racer
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just thinking. cant you just put some painting tape in the wholes to cover the brass internals. then shoot it with some vht high temp spray paint?
#8
Team Owner
alternator
Haven't pulled the one on the vette apart, but did the one on my Trans-Am a few years ago. You have to have a puller to get the pulley off and the gently tap the shaft and front bearing out of the front housing. If it has a number of miles on it its worth while to change the front bearing out while its apart.
#10
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Originally Posted by stickystuff
just thinking. cant you just put some painting tape in the wholes to cover the brass internals. then shoot it with some vht high temp spray paint?
#11
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by 97Rob
You fellows need to get up w/ willyfastz. He took mine apart so it could be powder coated. Here's a pic!
#13
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by 97Rob
You fellows need to get up w/ willyfastz. He took mine apart so it could be powder coated. Here's a pic!
#15
Le Mans Master
It is easy, but before splitting the case, look for the 2 pinholes at the rear bearing....you will need to use them to put paperclips or something similar in to hold/retain the spring loaded brushes in place when you put it back together. Otherwise, it will be next to impossible to do.
Just a quick pointer that is easy to miss along the way
Oops,,sorry guys, I thought I was in C4....don't know if this is applicable with newer alts
Just a quick pointer that is easy to miss along the way
Oops,,sorry guys, I thought I was in C4....don't know if this is applicable with newer alts
Last edited by champs65; 10-25-2006 at 07:54 PM.
#16
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I found the text, but not the pics...
The alternator can be taken apart, sanded and polished. The more time invested the better the finish will be. The pulley needs to be removed first, some grinding on a large box wrench will allow it to grip the pulley nut while a Torks bit holds the center shaft. The black regulator cover needs to be removed. Some RTV needs to be pulled off the regulator assembly so the two brush screws can be seen and removed. A large soldering gun is needed to unsolder the three stator wires from the regulator assembly, solder wick helps remove the solder. The regulator assembly can be unscrewed and the case halves separated; set the stator and rotor aside. The pressed in studs can be tapped out and tapped back in for reassembly, note the length and location first. Remove the bearing retainer and bearing from the case. The case halves can be filed to remove the sharp casting flash then sanded. Tight areas can be blended using a small file with sandpaper on it so no deep scratches or gouges will be visible when finished. A small piece of 1/8" - 1/4" thick rubber works well as a sanding pad. Use desending grits of sandpaper until 1500-2000, this will provide a good base to polish. A drill press and buffing wheel work well, cheap wheels and polish can be found at Harbor Freight. The area of the stator between the case halves that will be visible can be cleaned, masked off and painted. Check the bearings and brushes and replace if they are worn out. Use some new white silicone heat sink grease between the case and regulator assembly, Radio Shack should have this. If you take your time the completed alternator will have a mirror finish.
The alternator can be taken apart, sanded and polished. The more time invested the better the finish will be. The pulley needs to be removed first, some grinding on a large box wrench will allow it to grip the pulley nut while a Torks bit holds the center shaft. The black regulator cover needs to be removed. Some RTV needs to be pulled off the regulator assembly so the two brush screws can be seen and removed. A large soldering gun is needed to unsolder the three stator wires from the regulator assembly, solder wick helps remove the solder. The regulator assembly can be unscrewed and the case halves separated; set the stator and rotor aside. The pressed in studs can be tapped out and tapped back in for reassembly, note the length and location first. Remove the bearing retainer and bearing from the case. The case halves can be filed to remove the sharp casting flash then sanded. Tight areas can be blended using a small file with sandpaper on it so no deep scratches or gouges will be visible when finished. A small piece of 1/8" - 1/4" thick rubber works well as a sanding pad. Use desending grits of sandpaper until 1500-2000, this will provide a good base to polish. A drill press and buffing wheel work well, cheap wheels and polish can be found at Harbor Freight. The area of the stator between the case halves that will be visible can be cleaned, masked off and painted. Check the bearings and brushes and replace if they are worn out. Use some new white silicone heat sink grease between the case and regulator assembly, Radio Shack should have this. If you take your time the completed alternator will have a mirror finish.
#17
Premium Supporting Vendor
Originally Posted by tiojames
Haven't pulled the one on the vette apart, but did the one on my Trans-Am a few years ago. You have to have a puller to get the pulley off and the gently tap the shaft and front bearing out of the front housing. If it has a number of miles on it its worth while to change the front bearing out while its apart.