Replacing Idler Pulley should take 1/2 hour but took 1 1/2 hours
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Replacing Idler Pulley should take 1/2 hour but took 1 1/2 hours
I had a squeeky idler pulley. When car was under warranty dealer replaced both tensioners, both belts, and the water pump. Car would still squeek ocasionally. Corvette knowledgable dealer didn't know about the idler pulley TSB.
Obtained a DAYCO # 89059 idler pulley at Pep Boys for $16.99. Advance Auto has the same DAYCO pulley for $19.99. The GM pulley lists for $69.99 and can be had for $50.
Used a 15MM socket to release tension on main belt using CCW force on the tensioner. Left belt in place since no problem removing the 15MM bolt holding the idler pulley to the collet coming from the front of the engine. Did all this from above. When removing bolt hold on to the idler as it also goes thru 2 dust shield washers, 1 in front and one directly behind the idler pulley.
Cleaned grease and dirt from bolt and both washers and reassembled with replacement DAYCO pulley. When tightening bolt found that pulley siezed up as the front dust shield contacted the pulley not just the bearing on the original pulley. Removed pulley and compared it to original. DAYCO pulley is ever so slightly thicker and the bearing is recessed just slightly below the bearing in the original so that when you insert the cone shaped front dust shield washer it does not contact the bearing but rather comes in contact with the front part of the pulley.
The new pulley box says to discard the dust shield if it doesn't fit.
Problem with that is that the 15MM bolt head doesnt cover enough of the bearing surface to insure it won't loosen or cause catostrophic dammage if it slips when the pulley is turning at several thousand RPM.
Went to my junk washer bin and found a washer which just fits over the bolt, is slightly tapered similar to the dust shield, and which contacts the not moving portion of the bearing but not the outer race which turns with the pulley. Placed this washer just under the dust shield washer and found that the pulley does not contact the dust shield washer.
Reinstalled the bolt, tapered dust shield washer, additional washer, pulley, and rear dust shield washer to the engine and replaced the drive belt.
Spent at least 15 minutes getting the belt on. Used a breaker bar and 15MM socket on the tensioner and working from the drivers side of the car eased the belt over all pulleys with the alternator pulley the last one to slip over. Had to reach down and ease the belt rearward on the water pump pulley to get the belt over so it woiuld slide over the ribs on the alternator pulley.
Pulsed starter to ensure that belt was properly seated on all pulleys before starting the car.
Have driven car at speeds up to 80 MPH and have no noise or other problems.
Called DAYCO and recommended they ship a 5 cent washer with their pulley so someone less mechanically minded doesn't wreck his car installing the pulley without washers.
Overall this job was easy and should have the first thing the dealer did to resolve the squeeking problem. Only pulley not changed is the idler pulley on the AC belt and it looks like a lot more fun to replace since you must first remove both belts to get to it. Do that if and when I have to.
BIGHANK
Obtained a DAYCO # 89059 idler pulley at Pep Boys for $16.99. Advance Auto has the same DAYCO pulley for $19.99. The GM pulley lists for $69.99 and can be had for $50.
Used a 15MM socket to release tension on main belt using CCW force on the tensioner. Left belt in place since no problem removing the 15MM bolt holding the idler pulley to the collet coming from the front of the engine. Did all this from above. When removing bolt hold on to the idler as it also goes thru 2 dust shield washers, 1 in front and one directly behind the idler pulley.
Cleaned grease and dirt from bolt and both washers and reassembled with replacement DAYCO pulley. When tightening bolt found that pulley siezed up as the front dust shield contacted the pulley not just the bearing on the original pulley. Removed pulley and compared it to original. DAYCO pulley is ever so slightly thicker and the bearing is recessed just slightly below the bearing in the original so that when you insert the cone shaped front dust shield washer it does not contact the bearing but rather comes in contact with the front part of the pulley.
The new pulley box says to discard the dust shield if it doesn't fit.
Problem with that is that the 15MM bolt head doesnt cover enough of the bearing surface to insure it won't loosen or cause catostrophic dammage if it slips when the pulley is turning at several thousand RPM.
Went to my junk washer bin and found a washer which just fits over the bolt, is slightly tapered similar to the dust shield, and which contacts the not moving portion of the bearing but not the outer race which turns with the pulley. Placed this washer just under the dust shield washer and found that the pulley does not contact the dust shield washer.
Reinstalled the bolt, tapered dust shield washer, additional washer, pulley, and rear dust shield washer to the engine and replaced the drive belt.
Spent at least 15 minutes getting the belt on. Used a breaker bar and 15MM socket on the tensioner and working from the drivers side of the car eased the belt over all pulleys with the alternator pulley the last one to slip over. Had to reach down and ease the belt rearward on the water pump pulley to get the belt over so it woiuld slide over the ribs on the alternator pulley.
Pulsed starter to ensure that belt was properly seated on all pulleys before starting the car.
Have driven car at speeds up to 80 MPH and have no noise or other problems.
Called DAYCO and recommended they ship a 5 cent washer with their pulley so someone less mechanically minded doesn't wreck his car installing the pulley without washers.
Overall this job was easy and should have the first thing the dealer did to resolve the squeeking problem. Only pulley not changed is the idler pulley on the AC belt and it looks like a lot more fun to replace since you must first remove both belts to get to it. Do that if and when I have to.
BIGHANK
Last edited by bighank; 04-30-2010 at 09:00 PM.
#2
Drifting
They gave you the wrong part! 89059 is not for us (it's for a Honda Pilot), 89135 is (at least for DAYCO). I'm ordering 89135 from Pep Boys and will let you know how the fitment goes, but I suspect the wrong part would make all the difference.
#3
Drifting
Advanced web site lists both for a C5. The picture shows 89135 as non painted, and 89059 as a painted piece.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Called Dayco and they verified that I had the correct pulley
The pulley fits about 20 different cars. Go to the Dayco site to see as I did.
Only difference in OEM and Dayco pulley is that the bearing is recessed ever so slightly so that without a washer when you tighten the bolt the front "dust shield" (actually a large convex washer) contacts the steel pulley and not the center of the bearing.
Dayco's reference shows 89135 as the COMPRESSOR PULLEY.
http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/da...&engine=BN5&l=
is the website link showing part numbers for C5 belts,pulleys and hoses.
Last edited by bighank; 06-02-2010 at 08:35 PM.
#5
Hmm, I didn't have that problem w/ the dayco idler pulley, but perhaps you have the earlier different dust shield design. At least I think there was some earlier design that caused the noise the TSB addresses after it warped or bent over time or something. On my 02 the dust shield was thick enough and shaped in such a way that it did not contact the pulley.
Or maybe the depth that the bearing is seated in in the pulley can vary.
Before it was all said in done with mine I became a master at removing the belts. I first tried just changing both belts (with Dayco "premium" belts), then both tensioners, then the idlers, then removed everything to degrease all the pulleys to make sure that wasn't causing the intermittent squeaking, then finally replaced the belts again with Goodyear gatorbacks instead of Dayco brand, and that was what did the trick. Don't ask me how much I love Dayco belts after that BS... LOL.
Or maybe the depth that the bearing is seated in in the pulley can vary.
Before it was all said in done with mine I became a master at removing the belts. I first tried just changing both belts (with Dayco "premium" belts), then both tensioners, then the idlers, then removed everything to degrease all the pulleys to make sure that wasn't causing the intermittent squeaking, then finally replaced the belts again with Goodyear gatorbacks instead of Dayco brand, and that was what did the trick. Don't ask me how much I love Dayco belts after that BS... LOL.
Last edited by GM Fan; 06-02-2010 at 09:23 PM.
#8
I hate to bump a four year old thread but I had the exact same problem with the DAYCO idler pulley I just installed. Thanks to this thread and a $0.10 washer, the problem is solved!
#9
Washer?
Hi guys,
I just finished replacing the original idler pulley with a Dayco 89059 Pulley. I just used a flat washer instead of the dust shield. Is this correct or do I need to use a special washer.
Thanks,
Mike
I just finished replacing the original idler pulley with a Dayco 89059 Pulley. I just used a flat washer instead of the dust shield. Is this correct or do I need to use a special washer.
Thanks,
Mike
#12
6th Gear
Spare washer
I replaced the idler pulley last week on my 2k with the exact washer from the old washer jar. It contacts the inner bearing race when tightened and allows the pulley to spin free. No worries...all good!
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MightyMike (11-28-2015)
#13
Thanks for the thread!
After spending close to a hour trying to figure out why the pulley from Advance Auto #89007 would not rotate after I installed it and reinstalled it, then rereinstalled it I compared it to the original pulley. The bearing on the new pulley is defiantly recessed deeper into the pulley causing the dust shield to keep the pulley from spinning. After doing a quick search on this site I found your post from 6 years ago. Looks like I need to add a washer, Thanks for the post.
#14
6th Gear
Eureka!
After spending close to a hour trying to figure out why the pulley from Advance Auto #89007 would not rotate after I installed it and reinstalled it, then rereinstalled it I compared it to the original pulley. The bearing on the new pulley is defiantly recessed deeper into the pulley causing the dust shield to keep the pulley from spinning. After doing a quick search on this site I found your post from 6 years ago. Looks like I need to add a washer, Thanks for the post.
#15
Instructor
Maybe the extra cost of the OEM part may have be worth while. Check with Cultrag Performance {a Forum vendor} for a better price than the local dealer.
#17
Intermediate
Definitely, spend a little extra cash now and save yourself a lot of headache later... A friend of mine owns a shop and ordered me an aftermarket tensioner, we put it on with no problems and all was good... A couple weeks later I started hearing a squeak, having replaced the belt weeks prior I start looking at other pulleys but was coming up short. Only driving my car on the weekends I let it go until the squeak was no longer a squeak but the mating call of a T-rex, with the motor running I put my hand on every moving part possible and sure enough the tensioner was as hot as the sun, replaced with a GM tensioner and all is good again.
#18
Premium Supporting Vendor
Thank you for the referral. We would certainly be happy to help out.
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Phone: 484-334-8833
Owner of CULTRAG Performance
Shop Our Factory GM Parts Website