C5 Tech Corvette Tech/Performance: LS1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Tech Topics, Basic Tech, Maintenance, How to Remove & Replace
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Replacing Idler Pulley should take 1/2 hour but took 1 1/2 hours

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-30-2010, 08:57 PM
  #1  
bighank
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bighank's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Silver Spring MD
Posts: 2,329
Received 28 Likes on 27 Posts

Default Replacing Idler Pulley should take 1/2 hour but took 1 1/2 hours

I had a squeeky idler pulley. When car was under warranty dealer replaced both tensioners, both belts, and the water pump. Car would still squeek ocasionally. Corvette knowledgable dealer didn't know about the idler pulley TSB.

Obtained a DAYCO # 89059 idler pulley at Pep Boys for $16.99. Advance Auto has the same DAYCO pulley for $19.99. The GM pulley lists for $69.99 and can be had for $50.

Used a 15MM socket to release tension on main belt using CCW force on the tensioner. Left belt in place since no problem removing the 15MM bolt holding the idler pulley to the collet coming from the front of the engine. Did all this from above. When removing bolt hold on to the idler as it also goes thru 2 dust shield washers, 1 in front and one directly behind the idler pulley.

Cleaned grease and dirt from bolt and both washers and reassembled with replacement DAYCO pulley. When tightening bolt found that pulley siezed up as the front dust shield contacted the pulley not just the bearing on the original pulley. Removed pulley and compared it to original. DAYCO pulley is ever so slightly thicker and the bearing is recessed just slightly below the bearing in the original so that when you insert the cone shaped front dust shield washer it does not contact the bearing but rather comes in contact with the front part of the pulley.

The new pulley box says to discard the dust shield if it doesn't fit.
Problem with that is that the 15MM bolt head doesnt cover enough of the bearing surface to insure it won't loosen or cause catostrophic dammage if it slips when the pulley is turning at several thousand RPM.

Went to my junk washer bin and found a washer which just fits over the bolt, is slightly tapered similar to the dust shield, and which contacts the not moving portion of the bearing but not the outer race which turns with the pulley. Placed this washer just under the dust shield washer and found that the pulley does not contact the dust shield washer.

Reinstalled the bolt, tapered dust shield washer, additional washer, pulley, and rear dust shield washer to the engine and replaced the drive belt.

Spent at least 15 minutes getting the belt on. Used a breaker bar and 15MM socket on the tensioner and working from the drivers side of the car eased the belt over all pulleys with the alternator pulley the last one to slip over. Had to reach down and ease the belt rearward on the water pump pulley to get the belt over so it woiuld slide over the ribs on the alternator pulley.

Pulsed starter to ensure that belt was properly seated on all pulleys before starting the car.

Have driven car at speeds up to 80 MPH and have no noise or other problems.

Called DAYCO and recommended they ship a 5 cent washer with their pulley so someone less mechanically minded doesn't wreck his car installing the pulley without washers.

Overall this job was easy and should have the first thing the dealer did to resolve the squeeking problem. Only pulley not changed is the idler pulley on the AC belt and it looks like a lot more fun to replace since you must first remove both belts to get to it. Do that if and when I have to.

BIGHANK

Last edited by bighank; 04-30-2010 at 09:00 PM.
Old 06-02-2010, 05:58 PM
  #2  
Bounty Hunter 6
Drifting
 
Bounty Hunter 6's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Colorado Springs CO
Posts: 1,566
Received 51 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

They gave you the wrong part! 89059 is not for us (it's for a Honda Pilot), 89135 is (at least for DAYCO). I'm ordering 89135 from Pep Boys and will let you know how the fitment goes, but I suspect the wrong part would make all the difference.
Old 06-02-2010, 06:34 PM
  #3  
FRCTony
Drifting
 
FRCTony's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,737
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Bounty Hunter 6
They gave you the wrong part! 89059 is not for us (it's for a Honda Pilot), 89135 is (at least for DAYCO). I'm ordering 89135 from Pep Boys and will let you know how the fitment goes, but I suspect the wrong part would make all the difference.
Advanced web site lists both for a C5. The picture shows 89135 as non painted, and 89059 as a painted piece.
Old 06-02-2010, 07:39 PM
  #4  
bighank
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
bighank's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Silver Spring MD
Posts: 2,329
Received 28 Likes on 27 Posts

Default Called Dayco and they verified that I had the correct pulley

Originally Posted by Bounty Hunter 6
They gave you the wrong part! 89059 is not for us (it's for a Honda Pilot), 89135 is (at least for DAYCO). I'm ordering 89135 from Pep Boys and will let you know how the fitment goes, but I suspect the wrong part would make all the difference.
Someone in Dayco's engineering department called me back. He had both the Dayco part and the OEM GM part.
The pulley fits about 20 different cars. Go to the Dayco site to see as I did.
Only difference in OEM and Dayco pulley is that the bearing is recessed ever so slightly so that without a washer when you tighten the bolt the front "dust shield" (actually a large convex washer) contacts the steel pulley and not the center of the bearing.
Dayco's reference shows 89135 as the COMPRESSOR PULLEY.
http://www.mvreader.com/multiview/da...&engine=BN5&l=
is the website link showing part numbers for C5 belts,pulleys and hoses.

Last edited by bighank; 06-02-2010 at 08:35 PM.
Old 06-02-2010, 09:15 PM
  #5  
GM Fan
Racer
 
GM Fan's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Woodstock Ga
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Hmm, I didn't have that problem w/ the dayco idler pulley, but perhaps you have the earlier different dust shield design. At least I think there was some earlier design that caused the noise the TSB addresses after it warped or bent over time or something. On my 02 the dust shield was thick enough and shaped in such a way that it did not contact the pulley.

Or maybe the depth that the bearing is seated in in the pulley can vary.

Before it was all said in done with mine I became a master at removing the belts. I first tried just changing both belts (with Dayco "premium" belts), then both tensioners, then the idlers, then removed everything to degrease all the pulleys to make sure that wasn't causing the intermittent squeaking, then finally replaced the belts again with Goodyear gatorbacks instead of Dayco brand, and that was what did the trick. Don't ask me how much I love Dayco belts after that BS... LOL.

Last edited by GM Fan; 06-02-2010 at 09:23 PM.
Old 06-03-2010, 02:44 AM
  #6  
2000BSME
Le Mans Master
 
2000BSME's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Posts: 9,996
Received 17 Likes on 14 Posts

Default

ifl
Old 06-03-2010, 08:59 AM
  #7  
wcsinx
Team Owner
 
wcsinx's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Received 71 Likes on 65 Posts

Default

I didn't have that problem with my dayco pulley.

Also, the belt is easy as anything to install if you just do the water pump last. 5 minutes tops
Old 06-22-2014, 11:18 AM
  #8  
I dream of vettes
Racer
 
I dream of vettes's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

I hate to bump a four year old thread but I had the exact same problem with the DAYCO idler pulley I just installed. Thanks to this thread and a $0.10 washer, the problem is solved!
Old 11-22-2015, 03:30 PM
  #9  
MightyMike
Racer
 
MightyMike's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Holbrook NY
Posts: 477
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts

Default Washer?

Hi guys,

I just finished replacing the original idler pulley with a Dayco 89059 Pulley. I just used a flat washer instead of the dust shield. Is this correct or do I need to use a special washer.

Thanks,
Mike
Old 11-22-2015, 08:16 PM
  #10  
MightyMike
Racer
 
MightyMike's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Holbrook NY
Posts: 477
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts

Default See pic

This is the washer I used. Should I be ok?

Old 11-23-2015, 02:46 PM
  #11  
MightyMike
Racer
 
MightyMike's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Holbrook NY
Posts: 477
Received 6 Likes on 5 Posts

Default Update

I just went for a 30 minute ride. Nothing fell out, no weird noises.

I guess I'm good unless anyone wants to chime in..
Old 11-25-2015, 11:35 PM
  #12  
jay2751
6th Gear
 
jay2751's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2014
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 6
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default Spare washer

Originally Posted by MightyMike
I just went for a 30 minute ride. Nothing fell out, no weird noises.

I guess I'm good unless anyone wants to chime in..
I replaced the idler pulley last week on my 2k with the exact washer from the old washer jar. It contacts the inner bearing race when tightened and allows the pulley to spin free. No worries...all good!
The following users liked this post:
MightyMike (11-28-2015)
Old 07-07-2016, 09:32 PM
  #13  
pacat
Instructor
 
pacat's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Erie PA
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Thanks for the thread!

After spending close to a hour trying to figure out why the pulley from Advance Auto #89007 would not rotate after I installed it and reinstalled it, then rereinstalled it I compared it to the original pulley. The bearing on the new pulley is defiantly recessed deeper into the pulley causing the dust shield to keep the pulley from spinning. After doing a quick search on this site I found your post from 6 years ago. Looks like I need to add a washer, Thanks for the post.
Old 07-07-2016, 11:11 PM
  #14  
jay2751
6th Gear
 
jay2751's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2014
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 6
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default Eureka!

Originally Posted by pacat
After spending close to a hour trying to figure out why the pulley from Advance Auto #89007 would not rotate after I installed it and reinstalled it, then rereinstalled it I compared it to the original pulley. The bearing on the new pulley is defiantly recessed deeper into the pulley causing the dust shield to keep the pulley from spinning. After doing a quick search on this site I found your post from 6 years ago. Looks like I need to add a washer, Thanks for the post.
Glad to hear you found the problem.
Old 07-08-2016, 08:32 PM
  #15  
Darrell98
Instructor
 
Darrell98's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2012
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
Posts: 156
Received 18 Likes on 14 Posts

Default

Maybe the extra cost of the OEM part may have be worth while. Check with Cultrag Performance {a Forum vendor} for a better price than the local dealer.
Old 07-10-2016, 08:58 AM
  #16  
jackthelad
Melting Slicks
 
jackthelad's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2013
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 3,473
Received 675 Likes on 519 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Darrell98
Maybe the extra cost of the OEM part may have be worth while. Check with Cultrag Performance {a Forum vendor} for a better price than the local dealer.


Story here is, buy a part that is not quite right and spend a lot of time sorting it out. Personally, I would have just taken it back to wherever I bought it and told them it's no good.
Old 07-10-2016, 10:18 AM
  #17  
Eric Sr
Intermediate
 
Eric Sr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2015
Location: Stafford Cnty VA
Posts: 34
Received 11 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Definitely, spend a little extra cash now and save yourself a lot of headache later... A friend of mine owns a shop and ordered me an aftermarket tensioner, we put it on with no problems and all was good... A couple weeks later I started hearing a squeak, having replaced the belt weeks prior I start looking at other pulleys but was coming up short. Only driving my car on the weekends I let it go until the squeak was no longer a squeak but the mating call of a T-rex, with the motor running I put my hand on every moving part possible and sure enough the tensioner was as hot as the sun, replaced with a GM tensioner and all is good again.
Old 07-13-2016, 09:38 PM
  #18  
Gene Culley
Premium Supporting Vendor
 
Gene Culley's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Reading PA
Posts: 30,313
Received 160 Likes on 139 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Darrell98
Maybe the extra cost of the OEM part may have be worth while. Check with Cultrag Performance {a Forum vendor} for a better price than the local dealer.
Thank you for the referral. We would certainly be happy to help out.
__________________
Phone: 484-334-8833
Owner of CULTRAG Performance

Shop Our Factory GM Parts Website

Get notified of new replies

To Replacing Idler Pulley should take 1/2 hour but took 1 1/2 hours




Quick Reply: Replacing Idler Pulley should take 1/2 hour but took 1 1/2 hours



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:20 AM.