scottsphoto2

I finally figured that out!
The part in the link above, is the correct one if you have the climate control function and a total of 2 a left and right one.both are the same #
you need this one>>>>>(604-106)

If you do NOT have climate control, then You only need one of them,
which is this one>>>> >>>(604-107)
(and of course this one is the cheapest!)

I ordered this one because I have the climate control. It is a NEW dorman brand>>>>>eBay item number:271564864691
Cost me 49.99 + 6.00 = 55.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-604-106-Temperature-HVAC-Air-Door-Actuator-Motor-/271564864691?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3a86fcb3&vxp=mtror Amazon has it a little cheaper about $48

scottsphoto2

Ok, I replaced the left actuator, and no change!
I still have warm a/c out of both sides.(the ps might be like 2 degrees cooler than the ds)
I observed the actuator, as I went thru the settings, and the doors are working fine.
I do not have any hvac codes now? the 0361 code is gone, and has not come back yet, after cranking it a few times, then driving it up the road and back.
I checked the coolant again, and according to this A/C-PRO gauge that came with the can, it says the pressure ranges from 35-55. it will be at 35 then go up to 55 then back down.ect.........
When I turn the ac on, I here a click from the engine, but I swear it looks like the compressor is constantly spinning, and while I am watching it with the gauge connected to the line, I never here it kick on or off?
I also have tried the fuses and the battery again, but still no a/c!
Anyone got another suggestion, before I have to take it to the shop?>>>PLEASE!
Thanks,
Chris

92GA

Is the EXT temp reading right? That was what was wrong with mine to begin with. Mine was reading 33 degrees, and wouldn't allow the compressor run. What is the EXT temp on yours? The EXT temp sensor is in the lower right front by the radiator, cheap part at O'Reillys, like $13.00.

scottsphoto2

I think so?
Reading 79 deg., and I called the temp, said it was like 74.

I am waiting for Bill, to get back to me.
I am starting to think my battery only showing 12.40v, may have something to do with all of this?

Thanks!

Bill Curlee

Measure the battery voltage while you cold crnk the engine and see how LOW it dorps. From the at rest reading that you are posting, your battery should be fine.

BC

scottsphoto2

Here is my latest up-date.
Ok, so I replaced the driver-side actuator, and got rid of the code,
BUT, I just had to go and mess with the r134!
W/O including all the nasty details that ultimately cost me $168.00, I screwed up and ended up over filling it, due to the gauge that came with the a/c-pro r134 can reading that I was low.
Anyway, I then panicked, thinking I was going to damage the compressor or something, and ended up letting too much out and loosing vacuum.
(don't trust what a cheap gauge tells you, or at least this white boy is thru checking refrigerant levels until I learn more and get the proper gauges!)
Sooooooo, I left the shop with cold a/c and no more HVAC codes.............
BUUUUUUT!>>>>It was nice and cold, only for 1 frickin 45 min trip!
When I got back in the car, and went to turn on the a/c, it was right back to almost the same temp, as it was, when all of this started!
It is just a little cool,(and I must stress the word,"little"), enough so that the low-side line under the hood, is not warm, but slightly cool.(but it was cooler tonight, than during the day, so I expect it to be exactly the same warm temp as when the problem started tomorrow!)
So, now another hot w/e is here, and I am out $168 to Leo, and $56 to ebay, all kinds of time, and still no a/c!
Plan of course to call Leo the Vette Man, on Monday and take it back in, so I can beat a $168 out of his A-double-S! (-:just kidding, he's a pretty big dude! lol:-)
I will let you guys know what the final verdict is, when ever we get to the bottom of this.
DOES ANYONE WANT TO TAKE A GANDER AT WHAT HE IS GOING TO DETERMINE THE PROBLEM IS?
For real, If anyone can, please do let me know what you think it is, that is stealing my
frickin a/c, so that I may be able to help this, "Vette Specialist" figure it out on Monday, if he gets stumped, or fix it my self.
Later, Chris

scottsphoto2

Sorry Bill, I forgot to mention, I had the battery tested under load, and they said it was good.

As you see, I just posted an up-date, and yes it's a crazy-one!
(crazy things happen to crazy people!)

Also, you mentioned it could be a bad pressure sensor.
As you already know, I do not know anything about a/c systems, but a bad pressure sensor, seems to be a logical possibility to me!

Where is that located, and is there anyway for me to check to see if its working right?

Thanks again!
Chris

scottsphoto2

One other thing I forgot to mention, just in case>>>>>> I turned the passenger side temp **** to hot, while the main temp **** was set to 60 deg., but the ps stayed the same temp. (just as if, I had never changed the temp in the first place!)

I really have never used this feature, so I am not even sure, if it is supposed to be capable of blowing cold air on the ds and hot air on the ps at the same time?
I know it doesn't make much sense to ever want to do that, but should it?
Just asking.........

Borntorun04/17

About two months ago my car had same code BO361 left actuator and bad to ground . I took it to dealer car still cover by extended warranty. One side was cooler than other and seemed to be not having the same amount of force of air coming from vent. They said that they re-leaned actuator on car and have not had a problem with ac / heat and no codes. Hope this may help

BigGun

IMO a pretty useless feature. It will only change the temp by a few degrees. It is described in your owners manual.

scottsphoto2

Thanks for the info.
I have had that prob in the past, where the ps was cold but the ds was hot and removed the 18 & 24 fuses and fixed it, but this time is different.
There really is not enough diff to even had mentioned it, replaced actuator, got rid of 0361, compressor is running, refrigerant full, but low-side pipe barely cool to warm?

scottsphoto2

Gotcha, thanks!

scottsphoto2

Bill, haven't had a chance to take it into the shop yet, but I called them, and they said I sounds like my compressor is out.
(like I said in my earlier comment, a/c was cold for about 70 miles, after they charged it, then back to barely cool)

The complete new system was installed on 02/11, (3 1/2 yrs ago)
With that said, is this something that can happen, or should they warranty the compressor? (how long of a warranty can one expect to be on a compressor?)

If it is the compressor, I am going to be pissed if I have to pay for another one already. Every other car/truck I have ever owned, NEVER needed the compressor replaced. I put 250k on my Ford F-150, still working!

Also, here is the thing, I have not discussed with the mech., yet.
Just after I called them, I had to run up the street, and wah-lah, the frickin a/c was cold again!
Sooooo it definitely is an intermittent problem!

With that said, can you tell me more about the pressure sensor you mentioned?
Is this the part?>>>GM 3-WIRE PRESURE SWITCH AC-DELCO #15-5724 GM#22624066 just curious.

dbs1vette

Well I am following this post to see what solves this. I have the same code, but my ac seems to blow cold. What is the shop meaning about relearning the actuator door???

Bill Curlee

When ever the HVAC control head is powered OFF and then back ON, it goes through a calibration routiene. It cycles the temp door actuators from full hot and then to full cold and then it commands the sctuator to the selected temp that you have set on the control head.

If the HVAC head doesnt see the proper counts on full range it errors out and sets the DTCs for the actuator error.

Ive had to sysle mine several times to get it to properly calibrate. If you listen carefully, you can hear the little DC Motors cycle as it is calibrating:

IF,, you have a cracked gear (like shown) it may not calibrate and will require replacement . You can reglue the gear.



BC

dbs1vette

With a bad memory and bad hearing I've never heard it cycling, but that don't mean it is not doing it...hmmm. It appears more investigation is required on my part... Thx guys!

Bill Curlee

Well with a flashlight and a mirror, you can watch the drivers side in action. Just remove the closeout panel under the steering wheel and you can actually watch the drivers side actuator cycle.

REMEMBER,,, That does NOT mean that the gear inside is cycling correctly if its cracked/

This is the passengers side but, the drivers side will look identical.




BC

dbs1vette

I need to know the secret to remove the panel under the steering wheel. I tried to pull it as well as the lower panels on each side of the steering wheel and cannot seem to find how to get them off???

Bill Curlee

There should be 3=4 screws near the steering wheel side and near the accelerator peddle there is a round metal disk that presses over a plastic stud. Getting that off can be a bitch but,, it will come off.

Once thats off, the panel just comes out.

BC

dbs1vette

Thanks Bill!!!

Now knowing I need to pull the whole dash off to also fix the fallen HUD, what are some of the secrets to do that and not break any of the plastic mounts? Like the plastic panels on each side of the steering wheel that you remove the obvious screws, but it still doesn't want to come off.

I hate breaking stuff on these dang cars!