HVAC heater door stuck opened?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
HVAC heater door stuck opened?
Zzup guy's?
The heat index hit like 110 deg., yesterday here in N.W., FL., and of course my a/c quit in my 97 c5!
I had the complete system replaced 01/2011(that is, everything under the hood, not inside the car.)
It is blowing hot on the driver-side and next to hot on the pass-side!
In the past, once I used the old pull #18 & #27 fuses, to get it straightened out, when I had hot on the d-s and cold on the p-s, but this time that's not the case, It's pretty much hot to warm on all the vents, but like I said, the p-s is a little cooler than the d-s.
I have already checked the refrigerant level. It was at the low end of the ok range, so I added enough to get it up to the top of that range.
(like about @ 50)
While I was adding it, the temp inside was nice and cold, but the next day, hot again!
got current code b0361
So after telling all of this to my vette mechanic today, he said it sounds like a heater door is stuck in the open position. He said it may be something he could re-program or re-calibrate? If not he may have to go in and replace it.
Well, here's my question!
I would really love to fix this myself, instead of putting even more $$$$ into this car!
#1)- what does the 361 code left-actuator, "feedback short to ground mean?"
#2)-was he referring to pulling those fuses 18 & 27 when he said re-calibrate it? or what? (because I have already done that, if that was what he was referring to?)
#4)- since the problem is on the d-s, is it something an amateur could pull off?
#5)- How or where might I find out what parts I would need to do the job my self?
#6)- In other words, any info at all will be greatly appreciated, so that maybe, just maybe, this "want-a-be mech.", can pull this off himself, w/o having to go visit Leo the Vette man! (I should already own stock in his company! lol
Anyway, Seems like every time I get close to that double-din install, something else happens!$$$>>>>
>>>>"She's a real head turner, but HIGH maintenance!
Did that sound familiar to anyone out there that has ever been Married? lol:
So please help as soon as possible cause its down right HOT down here! (drove home on the interstate doing 85 mph, with my head stuck out the window, yesterday!)
Thanks for reading!
Chris
The heat index hit like 110 deg., yesterday here in N.W., FL., and of course my a/c quit in my 97 c5!
I had the complete system replaced 01/2011(that is, everything under the hood, not inside the car.)
It is blowing hot on the driver-side and next to hot on the pass-side!
In the past, once I used the old pull #18 & #27 fuses, to get it straightened out, when I had hot on the d-s and cold on the p-s, but this time that's not the case, It's pretty much hot to warm on all the vents, but like I said, the p-s is a little cooler than the d-s.
I have already checked the refrigerant level. It was at the low end of the ok range, so I added enough to get it up to the top of that range.
(like about @ 50)
While I was adding it, the temp inside was nice and cold, but the next day, hot again!
got current code b0361
So after telling all of this to my vette mechanic today, he said it sounds like a heater door is stuck in the open position. He said it may be something he could re-program or re-calibrate? If not he may have to go in and replace it.
Well, here's my question!
I would really love to fix this myself, instead of putting even more $$$$ into this car!
#1)- what does the 361 code left-actuator, "feedback short to ground mean?"
#2)-was he referring to pulling those fuses 18 & 27 when he said re-calibrate it? or what? (because I have already done that, if that was what he was referring to?)
#4)- since the problem is on the d-s, is it something an amateur could pull off?
#5)- How or where might I find out what parts I would need to do the job my self?
#6)- In other words, any info at all will be greatly appreciated, so that maybe, just maybe, this "want-a-be mech.", can pull this off himself, w/o having to go visit Leo the Vette man! (I should already own stock in his company! lol
Anyway, Seems like every time I get close to that double-din install, something else happens!$$$>>>>
>>>>"She's a real head turner, but HIGH maintenance!
Did that sound familiar to anyone out there that has ever been Married? lol:
So please help as soon as possible cause its down right HOT down here! (drove home on the interstate doing 85 mph, with my head stuck out the window, yesterday!)
Thanks for reading!
Chris
Last edited by scottsphoto2; Aug 22, 2014 at 01:02 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,466
Likes: 51
St. Jude Donor '17
Zzup guy's?
The heat index hit like 110 deg., yesterday here in N.W., FL., and of course my a/c quit in my 97 c5!
I had the complete system replaced 01/2011(that is, everything under the hood, not inside the car.)
It is blowing hot on the driver-side and next to hot on the pass-side!
In the past, once I used the old pull #18 & #27 fuses, to get it straightened out, when I had hot on the d-s and cold on the p-s, but this time that's not the case, It's pretty much hot to warm on all the vents, but like I said, the p-s is a little cooler than the d-s.
I have already checked the refrigerant level. It was at the low end of the ok range, so I added enough to get it up to the top of that range.
(like about @ 50)
While I was adding it, the temp inside was nice and cold, but the next day, hot again!
So after telling all of this to my vette mechanic today, he said it sounds like a heater door is stuck in the open position. He said it may be something he could re-program or re-calibrate? If not he may have to go in and replace it.
Well, here's my question!
I would really love to fix this myself, instead of putting even more $$$$ into this car!
#1)-So first of all, was he referring to pulling those fuses 18 & 27 when he said re-calibrate it? or what? (because I have already done that, if that was what he was referring to?)
#2)-Which side will be the hardest to get to?
#3)- if the problem is on the d-s, is it something an amateur could pull off?
#4)- How or where might I find out what parts I would need to do the job my self?
#5)- In other words, any info at all will be greatly appreciated, so that maybe, just maybe, this "want-a-be mech.", can pull this off himself, w/o having to go visit Leo the Vette man! (I should already own stock in his company! lol
#6)- Does anyone know of another possibility of what could be causing the problem?
Anyway, Seems like every time I get close to that double-din install, something else happens!$$$>>>>
>>>>"She's a real head turner, but HIGH maintenance!
Did that sound familiar to anyone out there that has ever been Married? lol:
So please help as soon as possible cause its down right HOT down here! (drove home on the interstate doing 85 mph, with my head stuck out the window, yesterday!)
Thanks for reading!
Chris
The heat index hit like 110 deg., yesterday here in N.W., FL., and of course my a/c quit in my 97 c5!
I had the complete system replaced 01/2011(that is, everything under the hood, not inside the car.)
It is blowing hot on the driver-side and next to hot on the pass-side!
In the past, once I used the old pull #18 & #27 fuses, to get it straightened out, when I had hot on the d-s and cold on the p-s, but this time that's not the case, It's pretty much hot to warm on all the vents, but like I said, the p-s is a little cooler than the d-s.
I have already checked the refrigerant level. It was at the low end of the ok range, so I added enough to get it up to the top of that range.
(like about @ 50)
While I was adding it, the temp inside was nice and cold, but the next day, hot again!
So after telling all of this to my vette mechanic today, he said it sounds like a heater door is stuck in the open position. He said it may be something he could re-program or re-calibrate? If not he may have to go in and replace it.
Well, here's my question!
I would really love to fix this myself, instead of putting even more $$$$ into this car!
#1)-So first of all, was he referring to pulling those fuses 18 & 27 when he said re-calibrate it? or what? (because I have already done that, if that was what he was referring to?)
#2)-Which side will be the hardest to get to?
#3)- if the problem is on the d-s, is it something an amateur could pull off?
#4)- How or where might I find out what parts I would need to do the job my self?
#5)- In other words, any info at all will be greatly appreciated, so that maybe, just maybe, this "want-a-be mech.", can pull this off himself, w/o having to go visit Leo the Vette man! (I should already own stock in his company! lol
#6)- Does anyone know of another possibility of what could be causing the problem?
Anyway, Seems like every time I get close to that double-din install, something else happens!$$$>>>>
>>>>"She's a real head turner, but HIGH maintenance!
Did that sound familiar to anyone out there that has ever been Married? lol:
So please help as soon as possible cause its down right HOT down here! (drove home on the interstate doing 85 mph, with my head stuck out the window, yesterday!)
Thanks for reading!
Chris
it is a pain to do you basically take apart the entire dash and console.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 46
From: Springfield IL.
Oldtimer
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-604-106-Temperature-HVAC-Air-Door-Actuator-Motor-/271564864691?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3a86fcb3&vxp=mtr
I bought mine locally and paid about $ 150.00 tax included, but had I found these I would have ordered them and replaced them both.
Last edited by 92GA; Aug 22, 2014 at 08:33 AM.
.
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,030
Likes: 1,156
From: Oregon
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Here is what you are trying to get to--Pic's from Bill Curlee
Dash removal link-- http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2013...-dash-removal/
Dash removal link-- http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2013...-dash-removal/
Last edited by Smoken1; Aug 22, 2014 at 09:30 AM. Reason: Dash removal link
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
[/QUOTE]Geez man.....use the dic and pull the codes. They will tell if you have an actuator problem and even which side.
[QUOTE=scottsphoto2;1587653081]BS!
Done checked the codes, and didn't want help from a SA anyway!
======================================== ========
Easy dude. What BS? The codes told you you have a problem with the left side actuator. It will need to be replaced. The Dorman is a good replacement at about half the cost. Some say it can be removed from the bottom but seems most just remove the dash as I did.
[QUOTE=scottsphoto2;1587653081]BS!
Done checked the codes, and didn't want help from a SA anyway!
======================================== ========
Easy dude. What BS? The codes told you you have a problem with the left side actuator. It will need to be replaced. The Dorman is a good replacement at about half the cost. Some say it can be removed from the bottom but seems most just remove the dash as I did.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You have HVAC DTCs for ACTUATORS,, most likely the actuator is bad. The DRIVE gear for the output shaft can crack and is no longer attached to the output shaft.
You can:
Replace it with a new one
OR
Take it apart and reglue the gear to the shaft .
SOMETIMES,,,,,,,,,,,,, You can turn the HVAC OFF and enter the DIC and clear the DTCs and turn the HVAC off back on and the DTCs will clear and it will work normaly. Ive had to do this procedure several times to clear it.
If that doesnt work,, you will need to remove the actuator and replce or repair it.
BC
You can:
Replace it with a new one
OR
Take it apart and reglue the gear to the shaft .
SOMETIMES,,,,,,,,,,,,, You can turn the HVAC OFF and enter the DIC and clear the DTCs and turn the HVAC off back on and the DTCs will clear and it will work normaly. Ive had to do this procedure several times to clear it.
If that doesnt work,, you will need to remove the actuator and replce or repair it.
BC
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
Geez man.....use the dic and pull the codes. They will tell if you have an actuator problem and even which side.
Yeah, well next time you can leave the "geezzz" part off.
I wouldn't be on here asking questions, if I already knew the answers.
I guess I was hoping to find out what was wrong with the actuator, when the code said, "short to ground", I thought maybe it was a grounding problem. I didn't know for sure if I had to replace it. heck, I didn't even know what an actuator was till, I ask?
But anyway,thanks for the help, sorry bout the "BS" comment.
BS!
Done checked the codes, and didn't want help from a SA anyway!
======================================== ========
Easy dude. What BS? The codes told you you have a problem with the left side actuator. It will need to be replaced. The Dorman is a good replacement at about half the cost. Some say it can be removed from the bottom but seems most just remove the dash as I did.
Done checked the codes, and didn't want help from a SA anyway!
======================================== ========
Easy dude. What BS? The codes told you you have a problem with the left side actuator. It will need to be replaced. The Dorman is a good replacement at about half the cost. Some say it can be removed from the bottom but seems most just remove the dash as I did.
I wouldn't be on here asking questions, if I already knew the answers.
I guess I was hoping to find out what was wrong with the actuator, when the code said, "short to ground", I thought maybe it was a grounding problem. I didn't know for sure if I had to replace it. heck, I didn't even know what an actuator was till, I ask?
But anyway,thanks for the help, sorry bout the "BS" comment.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, You have HVAC DTCs for ACTUATORS,, most likely the actuator is bad. The DRIVE gear for the output shaft can crack and is no longer attached to the output shaft.
You can:
Replace it with a new one
OR
Take it apart and reglue the gear to the shaft .
SOMETIMES,,,,,,,,,,,,, You can turn the HVAC OFF and enter the DIC and clear the DTCs and turn the HVAC off back on and the DTCs will clear and it will work normaly. Ive had to do this procedure several times to clear it.
If that doesnt work,, you will need to remove the actuator and replce or repair it.
BC
You can:
Replace it with a new one
OR
Take it apart and reglue the gear to the shaft .
SOMETIMES,,,,,,,,,,,,, You can turn the HVAC OFF and enter the DIC and clear the DTCs and turn the HVAC off back on and the DTCs will clear and it will work normaly. Ive had to do this procedure several times to clear it.
If that doesnt work,, you will need to remove the actuator and replce or repair it.
BC
Do I need to have the car running, with the ac off, while I try that?
Or just have the ignition turned on, w/o the engine running?
Thanks so much for your time!
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Pasco Washington
I actually JUST did this job yesterday. I recommend following the write ups that some of the experts here have written up for removing a few of the dash panels.
I used this one as a guide http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
If you are agile/a contortionist then you can access the driver side actuator without having to remove the top portion of the dash board. I had to climb in and out several times in that position for various sockets. It's very time consuming, especially if you go slow and methodically. I think I spent 5 hours disassembling it, playing with it and reassembling it while cleaning up the panels as well.
Unfortunately for me, my actuator worked just fine but I needed to rule it out. I did learned a lot in the process.
My issue was a low refrigerant charge.
I used this one as a guide http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
If you are agile/a contortionist then you can access the driver side actuator without having to remove the top portion of the dash board. I had to climb in and out several times in that position for various sockets. It's very time consuming, especially if you go slow and methodically. I think I spent 5 hours disassembling it, playing with it and reassembling it while cleaning up the panels as well.
Unfortunately for me, my actuator worked just fine but I needed to rule it out. I did learned a lot in the process.
My issue was a low refrigerant charge.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: Pensacola Florida
I actually JUST did this job yesterday. I recommend following the write ups that some of the experts here have written up for removing a few of the dash panels.
I used this one as a guide http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
If you are agile/a contortionist then you can access the driver side actuator without having to remove the top portion of the dash board. I had to climb in and out several times in that position for various sockets. It's very time consuming, especially if you go slow and methodically. I think I spent 5 hours disassembling it, playing with it and reassembling it while cleaning up the panels as well.
Unfortunately for me, my actuator worked just fine but I needed to rule it out. I did learned a lot in the process.
My issue was a low refrigerant charge.
I used this one as a guide http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
If you are agile/a contortionist then you can access the driver side actuator without having to remove the top portion of the dash board. I had to climb in and out several times in that position for various sockets. It's very time consuming, especially if you go slow and methodically. I think I spent 5 hours disassembling it, playing with it and reassembling it while cleaning up the panels as well.
Unfortunately for me, my actuator worked just fine but I needed to rule it out. I did learned a lot in the process.
My issue was a low refrigerant charge.
I just went thru that article, and I am about to try this before I buy a new one!
Wish me luck!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 908
Likes: 4
From: TROY MI
I just had to replace one of mine. You'll have to find the dash removal instructions or just dive in. It's time consuming, but not hard. I'd replace them both if I would have found these before I did the job.
Dorman 604 106 Temperature HVAC Air Door Actuator Motor | eBay
I bought mine locally and paid about $ 150.00 tax included, but had I found these I would have ordered them and replaced them both.
Dorman 604 106 Temperature HVAC Air Door Actuator Motor | eBay
I bought mine locally and paid about $ 150.00 tax included, but had I found these I would have ordered them and replaced them both.
I need one. Anybody got a link to one that will fit . 2002 C5 Dual control drivers side actuator.
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 5
From: Rockwall TX
no easy way, 3 screws. But, if the system was rebuilt, and it was low? Hum, I would be checking for leaks. Sometimes low Freon causes all kinds of strange issues that relate to the actuators not working correctly. I had the HVAC code 361, put in a new drivers side actuator, and it kept giving me the same code for the actuator, when in reality it was a Freon issue. For what its worth. PS, you need to find a new mechanic, really!
Last edited by dmarkshark; Aug 26, 2014 at 09:38 PM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Pasco Washington
I think, pulling the entire dash and removing the center metal framing holding the Radio and HVAC controller makes this job the easiest it can possibly get, lol.
Getting the BOSE box out of place is a MUST. It's held in by two screws. Pulling the driver seat would help loads too in retrospect. Just be sure and organize your screws in a way that you will not forget them. I also removed the ignition switch assembly and that helped quite a lot as well. That is held in place by three screws.
I'm definitely no Bill but this is all I recently learned and I sincerely hope it helps.
Getting the BOSE box out of place is a MUST. It's held in by two screws. Pulling the driver seat would help loads too in retrospect. Just be sure and organize your screws in a way that you will not forget them. I also removed the ignition switch assembly and that helped quite a lot as well. That is held in place by three screws.
I'm definitely no Bill but this is all I recently learned and I sincerely hope it helps.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 46
From: Springfield IL.
Oldtimer
Here's the part number of the one I installed in my car 604-106. Bought at O'Reillys, check the number there.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4160&ppt=C0331
Last edited by 92GA; Aug 26, 2014 at 11:16 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,067
Likes: 46
From: Springfield IL.
Oldtimer