dbs1vette

Is there something I can do to solve this short of TNT underneath the car?

Bill Curlee

PLEASE explain in a little more detail what you are loosing memory wise.

There are several things that can effect memory.. Bad/ weak 12 VDC battery, defective solder joints on the seat control module board (been seeing this more and more), using the wrong fob,

Does it loose ALL setable memory or just the seat and mirror settings?

I agree, read and post your DTCs!

Bill

dbs1vette

I see people at church or other social functions that I have known for years and cannot remember their names for the life of me. It sucks!!!

Oh wait...you mean what memory functions I'm losing in the car??? Well hopefully it doesn't get as bad as me personally. Haha. I'll go see if I can pull them up. Having done it awhile ago, I wish they stayed on the screen longer!!!

dbs1vette

Ok folks, here are the codes that have come up-

10 PCM P0103 HC
99 HVAC B0361 H
AO-LDCM B2282 H B2284 H U1064 H
AI-RDCM B2283 H B2285 H U1064 H


So where do I go from here? I am going to be pulling the dash apart probably next week to repair the fallen HUD. What else should I plan on doing while having it apart? Thanks!

dbs1vette

Well after using the reset, the only 2 that keep coming on immediately are the 99 HVAC. B0361 H. B0441 H

What do I need to be doing on these?

dadaroo

Those code issues are related to the HVAC flow control actuators and have no affect on the Memory or door unlock problems.

We need the DETAILS on what issues you are having. Like will not unlock using the key FOB or will not unlock using the door switch. Driver side or passenger side?

Same thing for Memory. Using key FOB or door switch.

Also what year is the car?

dbs1vette

Gotcha. As it relates to HVAC...just noticed this morning the air is not as cold as its been.

As far as door unlock and seat memory...
Car does not go back to memory seating position when getting into car as it used to, whether using fob or hitting the door panel memory button.

Door locks work with door panel switch and with fob. They DON'T open when car is turned off and key removed. You have to manually open door locks, even when option button is used to set auto door unlock.

Car is a 20004 Z06. Thanks.

dadaroo

Why don't you disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see if a reboot helps. Make sure to rest all Memory functions and see if anything changes.

dbs1vette

Halafrikkenleuah!!!!!

The battery disconnect and just going back through programming the options along with programming the key fob seemed to work with the issue on taking care of the auto unlock!!!! Thanks!!!

It doesn't seem to want to keep my memory settings on my seat, but I guess I can live with that. And for now the sel light is off and the limp mode seems to be gone. Certainly going the right direction!

Now it seems I just have to work up the nads to pull this dash apart and fix the HUD as well as the actuator motors while I'm in there. Only problem at the moment is that my dd 2010 Tacoma has been burning up BCM's and is in the second shop trying to figure out why. Not sure I want to tear into the dash issues without a backup vehicle to drive.

Thanks for everyone's input. Now ideas on solving the Tacoma issues???

dbs1vette

Well it seems I spoke to soon. Went in and showered, headed to church and upon arrival...no more auto unlock. Urrrrrr

Maybe I simplify this by turning OFF the auto lock??? (if it has that feature)

Bill Curlee

I still think that you are having a POWER issue. Obtain a DC Voltmeter and read directly on the battery terminals and record battery voltage. Then,,, Have an assistant cold crank the engine. During cold crankin gthe starter draws it most current and stresses the battery. IF,,, the battery cant handle it, the output voltage will drop very LOW and that can and will erase / reset your memory settings and cause all sorts of strange electrical issues.

Read that cold crank battery terminal voltage and see if the battery is causing the issue.

dbs1vette

Bill, I think you are onto something. I don't have a voltage tester, but having the dic on volts it will show it dropping to 11.2 upon startup and then work up to 13.5-13.8, but fluctuate to 13.0 and back and forth.

I think I will venture down to autozone close to me and have them test the battery as well as the alternator tomorrow. If these cars are that sensitive to elec voltage that may indeed be where I need to start. Thanks!