Charge System Fault
09-22-2014, 04:20 PM
#22
Race Director
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Location: South Western Ontario
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I'm not telling you to check the grounds. You have to check the red power wires that all connect to the top big stud on the starter solenoid.
You also need to use your voltmeter and start by measuring the voltage at the stud on the alternator and then at the battery and then at the stud on the under hood fuse block. You're looking for a big change in the readings. Otherwise, you're running around randomly poking at things hoping the problem just goes away.
The fusible links are on the wires going to the starter. There are 2 wires that come from the alternator. There is a soft piece of wire about 5" long attached to the ends with the loop which goes onto the starter stud.
Replacement Valeo alternators are available on Ebay.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 09-22-2014 at 04:24 PM.
09-22-2014, 05:06 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
Order an alternator from DC Power. Bolt it on. Enjoy! I tried 3 different new and rebuilt alts on my car. Killed them in a matter of minutes. Charge fault with each. Ordered the DC Power unit and was done with it.
09-22-2014, 07:27 PM
#24
Tech Contributor
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Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You can bolt new alternators on each hour... Your still NOT fixing the main issue.
HOW and WHERE are you seeing 13 VDC????? If you are using the digital DIC reading & or the IPC DC VOLT METER,,, you are NOT reading BATTERY/CHATGING VOLTAGE!!!!!!
Those two meters display the voltage coming out of the IGNITION SWITCH..
Put a DC Voltmeter directly on the battery terminals and on the BATT Terminal on the back of the alternator.
That will show you what the charging system is actually outputting.
Disconnect the battery. Use an OHM Meter and read the positive cable end to the alternator BATT terminal. If you have a good connection yiou will have very close to ZERO OHMS.
Why do you think that you are burning up alternators??
Fusable Links: Look at this picture You can see how the wires change color. The area between the RED wire and the terminal on the solenoid is the FUSABLE LINK
The black covering with the dried goop is a factory fuseable Link:
You can also see another fuse link on the other small red wire.
The purple wire does NOT have a fuse link
Bill
HOW and WHERE are you seeing 13 VDC????? If you are using the digital DIC reading & or the IPC DC VOLT METER,,, you are NOT reading BATTERY/CHATGING VOLTAGE!!!!!!
Those two meters display the voltage coming out of the IGNITION SWITCH..
Put a DC Voltmeter directly on the battery terminals and on the BATT Terminal on the back of the alternator.
That will show you what the charging system is actually outputting.
Disconnect the battery. Use an OHM Meter and read the positive cable end to the alternator BATT terminal. If you have a good connection yiou will have very close to ZERO OHMS.
Why do you think that you are burning up alternators??
Fusable Links: Look at this picture You can see how the wires change color. The area between the RED wire and the terminal on the solenoid is the FUSABLE LINK
The black covering with the dried goop is a factory fuseable Link:
You can also see another fuse link on the other small red wire.
The purple wire does NOT have a fuse link
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 09-22-2014 at 07:29 PM.