mrm13

I posted this on the other section too, but I am not sure where it should go, so I am putting it here too.
Hi guys.
I need help and I need the collective knowledge of the forum to try figure this out.
First some history leading to this…
I got a set of longtube headers about three months ago. When I did that, the car was running great. However about a week later it threw a code and a Check Engine light for the air pump, which was understandable, because I removed it. About two months ago I also started working on putting wide fenders on the car (which turned into a nightmare). While I was waiting on the paintshop I decided to take the computer out and ship it to ECS to get it reprogramed. The reprogramed computer went in the car about two weeks ago. So here is where the issues started.
The car is more responsive, the temperature stays in check and I love it….Well kind of. The car has a hesitation right around 1600 RPM and at low RPM sounds kind of rough.
Today driving my wife to work, the check engine light came on. On my way back I stopped by Autozone to check the codes. Four things showed up.
1. Low fuel sensor
I know the C5 is notorious with issues with this and it doesn't really bother me. I keep the tank full most of the time and don't really rely on the gauge
2. P0133 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank1, Sensor1
This is chinese to me. What does that mean? What can cause it? And the consequences could be?
3. P1134 Heated Oxygen Sensor Transition Time Ratio Bank1, Sensor1
Same questions as the P0133
4. P0153 Oxygen Circuit Slow Response Bank2, Sensor1.
Now this one I also don't understand, but it is really puzzling to me. I may be wrong, but as far as I know, bank 1 is the front sensors and bank2 is the rear sensors. Well, if ECS reprogramed the computer and eliminated the rear sensors (part of their tune up) then why am I getting any codes for the rear sensors?

Please, any advise or help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

4DRUSH

Bank 1 is driver side

Bank 2 passenger side

mrm13

Thank you. So I was given the wrong info before.
However, this still does not help me understanding what is going on.

Can anyone "translate" what does this mean?

Bill Curlee

First,,, why are you going to AZ to read DTCs??? Read your own in the drivers seat..

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here are some very good sites that explains the DTCs:

http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!



Your O2 sensors probably got crapped up when the car wasnt tuned OR the heaters are not working correctly.

Read the test points on top of the fuse for the O2 Sensors to chassis ground. Should be same as battery voltage.

OXYSEN mini fuse #15





If the heaters are not working properly, it will kill the sensor..

Also make sure that the ground is good

BC

mrm13

Thank you Bill.
I did read the codes on my DTC. All three of them showed as H (history). Nothing Current. I also checked the fuse and it is not burned.
I did google the codes and read about it, but the only thing a really learned was, that this is a common problem for C5s with long tube headers.
I cleared the codes and the Check Engine light went away. I drove the car for just about 20 miles (I know, it's nothing) but kept it on higher RPM to heat it up and nothing came up. However, I have a feeling, this will come back.
If/when it does, my main concern is can it hurt the car? In other words if I am on my way to Denver tomorrow and it happens half way there, can I cause damage to the motor by completing my trip while the codes light up my dash?
Also what exactly do they mean? I just don't understand what "circuit slow response" means.

ssrallyred

It won't hurt the car to drive it with those codes, I had the same PO133 and 153 come on from time to time after my LT's were installed also. I ahd them turned off during my dyno tune last Thursday. I think its common because the O2 sensor does not sit as far down in the bung with headers like they do on the factory exhaust. Just MHO.

Bill Curlee

I agree!! You should be Ok,,, but your engine is not being 100% as efficient as it should be and you are leaving some HP on the table. You should do all the mods that you can afford and then get the PCM tuned. If your are NOT going to be adding any more mods for now and want the engine to run better and not throw DTCs, Get a good MAIL ORDER TUNE and call it a day.

The tuner that I use does an OUTSTANDING job with mail order tunes. If you have an Automatic Trans, you will really like the change!

Call Chuck at Corvettes Of Westchester and talk to him. Im sure that you will be impresed.

37 Old Albany Post Rd, Ossining, NY 10562
(914) 332-0049

mrm13

This is what totally throws me off. The codes came up right AFTER I put in a mail order tune from ECS. The car runs great, but it just has a slight hesitation right at 1600 rpm

Bill Curlee

Have you called ECS and see what they recommend??? That would be my NEXT recommendation.

Bill

mrm13

I have to wait 'till Monday. This happened Friday afternoon.

ssrallyred

I had to meet my tuner off site from where he tuned it because after I drove about twenty miles I had the same two codes come back. He had turned off several things but missed those two. But he did drive to where I was having lunch and took care of it in the parking lot

3boystoys

For O2's to work, they have to get HOT, in excess of 600F, many manufacturers today try to get them as close as possible to the engine to get them hot ASAP. Many header installations move them away from the engine making if harder to get them up to temp, especially in a timely manner. The rear O2's can generally be tuned out of the ECM permanently but the front ones are required for fuel trims.