vibrations
01-27-2015, 06:09 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
vibrations
while i have my car apart let me ask this. i put a clutch in and went with what i could afford at the time. i bought it from Orileys . now i have bought new rubber bushings for to tt . now could the clutch be the source of the vibration or is it the bushings in the TT. is there a better clutch out there and what kind.
01-29-2015, 04:22 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
while i have my car apart let me ask this. i put a clutch in and went with what i could afford at the time. i bought it from Orileys . now i have bought new rubber bushings for to tt . now could the clutch be the source of the vibration or is it the bushings in the TT. is there a better clutch out there and what kind.
01-30-2015, 01:25 PM
#3
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You should have matched marked the OLD FW to the Crank. Then had the new fly wheel MATCH BALANCED to the OLD Flywheel
IF, you didn't replace the FW or remove the fly wheel and then reinstall it out of the OEM factory installed position the PP could be causing the vibrations.
Before you disassemble the entire thing, remove the Bell Housing inspection cover. Obtain some metal washers that will fit over the PP bolt shank. Number each of the PP bolts locations on the pressure plate 1-6
Install one washer under bolt #1, start the engine and see if the vibration increases or decreases
If it decreases, add an additional washer to that location until the vibration is gone
If it increases in that location, move the washer to the NEXT bolt location and repeat.
NOTE!! ONE full washer may be too much weight to start with. You may have to grind down a washer to a 1/2 washer weight and start there.
If you find that an amount of off set weights (washers) fixes the vibration issue, MEASURE the exact weight of the washers. Obtain a LONGER PP fastener and then add washers/ trimmed washers to the new longer fastener so the weight of the new longer bolt and the washers is the same as the old bolt and washers.
The longer fastener is needed because the added washer/s reduced the thread engagement in the FW. Make sure that you use the proper grade fastener and the "washers" that you end up using should be Stainless Steel or something that wont rust away over time.
I've helped a few people resolve engine vibration issues using this method with success.
BC
IF, you didn't replace the FW or remove the fly wheel and then reinstall it out of the OEM factory installed position the PP could be causing the vibrations.
Before you disassemble the entire thing, remove the Bell Housing inspection cover. Obtain some metal washers that will fit over the PP bolt shank. Number each of the PP bolts locations on the pressure plate 1-6
Install one washer under bolt #1, start the engine and see if the vibration increases or decreases
If it decreases, add an additional washer to that location until the vibration is gone
If it increases in that location, move the washer to the NEXT bolt location and repeat.
NOTE!! ONE full washer may be too much weight to start with. You may have to grind down a washer to a 1/2 washer weight and start there.
If you find that an amount of off set weights (washers) fixes the vibration issue, MEASURE the exact weight of the washers. Obtain a LONGER PP fastener and then add washers/ trimmed washers to the new longer fastener so the weight of the new longer bolt and the washers is the same as the old bolt and washers.
The longer fastener is needed because the added washer/s reduced the thread engagement in the FW. Make sure that you use the proper grade fastener and the "washers" that you end up using should be Stainless Steel or something that wont rust away over time.
I've helped a few people resolve engine vibration issues using this method with success.
BC
