What's in my Radiator Hose?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
What's in my Radiator Hose?
The radiator on my '04 started leaking and I'm taking everything apart to replace,
then i saw this in lower hose, what is this white stuff in my radiator?
then i saw this in lower hose, what is this white stuff in my radiator?
Last edited by lilmonster; 04-21-2015 at 03:06 AM.
#2
Drifting
aluminum oxide? probably the corrosion inhibitors in your antifreeze are spent and you were beginning to corrode the engine. This is why the recommendation to change your antifreeze.
#3
Racer
Never say " NO ONE " ! I have replaced mine 3 times. 50,000,100,000 and 150,000.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
i just purchased this car in Jan, and it's at 160k, looks like the last guy forgot something.
i have the replacement parts on the way.
Anyone know how do i flush the system?
i have the replacement parts on the way.
Anyone know how do i flush the system?
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
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1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
When I flushed mine,, I dumped ALL the coolant/water out of the system. Filled the system with fresh water, run to operational temp, allow the system to cool and drained it again. Do this until the system drains CLEAN.
I ran a can of cooling system cleaner (SAFE FOR ALUMINUM BLOCK/RADIATORS) in a fresh fill of clean water and drained the system. Get as much of the water out of the block as possible.
Fill with distilled water and DEXCOOL.
If your wise, you will install a new T stat in the system. You can use wet and dry vac to get more water out of the block with the T stat out.
I ran a can of cooling system cleaner (SAFE FOR ALUMINUM BLOCK/RADIATORS) in a fresh fill of clean water and drained the system. Get as much of the water out of the block as possible.
Fill with distilled water and DEXCOOL.
If your wise, you will install a new T stat in the system. You can use wet and dry vac to get more water out of the block with the T stat out.
#6
Le Mans Master
When I flushed mine,, I dumped ALL the coolant/water out of the system. Filled the system with fresh water, run to operational temp, allow the system to cool and drained it again. Do this until the system drains CLEAN.
I ran a can of cooling system cleaner (SAFE FOR ALUMINUM BLOCK/RADIATORS) in a fresh fill of clean water and drained the system. Get as much of the water out of the block as possible.
Fill with distilled water and DEXCOOL.
If your wise, you will install a new T stat in the system. You can use wet and dry vac to get more water out of the block with the T stat out.
I ran a can of cooling system cleaner (SAFE FOR ALUMINUM BLOCK/RADIATORS) in a fresh fill of clean water and drained the system. Get as much of the water out of the block as possible.
Fill with distilled water and DEXCOOL.
If your wise, you will install a new T stat in the system. You can use wet and dry vac to get more water out of the block with the T stat out.
How many gallons, how many times to flush? I know it's till it's clean... would that take 2 times or maybe 10 time?
Last edited by 73Corvette; 04-21-2015 at 04:03 PM.
#7
Drifting
I guess you could use distilled water for your flush... and then not have to worry so much about getting all the water out... it's like $.90 a gallon at wally world. Just askin.
How many gallons, how many times to flush? I know it's till it's clean... would that take 2 times or maybe 10 time?
How many gallons, how many times to flush? I know it's till it's clean... would that take 2 times or maybe 10 time?
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Eh, if you're that worried about it, I'd flush with fresh water until it's clean or nearly so, then a flush with distilled, then distilled + dex. Means less distilled than possibly flushing 3-4 times with distitlled, but still going to get the vast majority of the 'normal' water out.
#9
Le Mans Master
Eh, if you're that worried about it, I'd flush with fresh water until it's clean or nearly so, then a flush with distilled, then distilled + dex. Means less distilled than possibly flushing 3-4 times with distitlled, but still going to get the vast majority of the 'normal' water out.
Thank you
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
that's a good idea to replace the t-stat while i have it apart, i'll do that.
question on the water, i see everyone mention distilled water,
I have an RODI water system for my fish tank, and the water comes out squeaky clean.
Can i use this water?
question on the water, i see everyone mention distilled water,
I have an RODI water system for my fish tank, and the water comes out squeaky clean.
Can i use this water?
#11
Melting Slicks
I'll bet that system keep the minerals in the water, just buy distilled water, say 6 gallons, what a couple of gallons for each flush.
6 bucks is cheap, for your Corvette.
You want distilled water because the minerals have been removed, just plain water, minerals can cause a build up.
6 bucks is cheap, for your Corvette.
You want distilled water because the minerals have been removed, just plain water, minerals can cause a build up.
#12
Melting Slicks
My brother used to work for maytag and gave me a awesome cordless iron (battery powered that recharges as it stands on charger)
I had a date and needed to iron my nice shirt, pulled it out to use, bought distilled water, it had this white crust come out on my nice black shirt, then it clogged up.
I called him in Texas and asked if he ever used it, he said yeah, I asked if he put tap water or distilled, he used tap water.
The iron was ruined as far as I could tell, and about ruined my nice shirt.
Imagine a engine heating up and recirculating water and coolant over and over, cooling down, heating up, day in day out.
I had a date and needed to iron my nice shirt, pulled it out to use, bought distilled water, it had this white crust come out on my nice black shirt, then it clogged up.
I called him in Texas and asked if he ever used it, he said yeah, I asked if he put tap water or distilled, he used tap water.
The iron was ruined as far as I could tell, and about ruined my nice shirt.
Imagine a engine heating up and recirculating water and coolant over and over, cooling down, heating up, day in day out.
Last edited by 1999corvettels1; 04-21-2015 at 04:59 PM.
#13
Drifting
Since you are replacing the T stat, go ahead and remove the water pump and replace the two gaskets at the flange points. GM gaskets are the best. You will find corrosion there and on the radiator hose nipples which are steel and will be corroded and need to be cleaned off.
Here's a trick. While the water pump is off take your compressed air hose and shove the nozzle into the water pump coolant openings in the block and blow blow blow on both sides, You will get a mess on the ground, but you will get almost every drop of old antifreeze out of the engine. What is left won't matter. About as messy as flushes, but you get it all. except what might be in the heater core, which you can blow out as well. When you blow out the heater, that is an air trap and one of the places that sources air bubbles for a while until you burp the system a couple times.
Those wp ports are low point on the engine block and you get about 2 quarts each side.
Also, the radiator drain petcock is plastic and only takes a quarter turn to open.
While you have that stuff off, you can see the ac belt and idler and tensioner pulleys. Be sure to take that belt off, (I would change it and keep that one for a spare IN THE TRUNK) and check it, the idler, and tensioner for smooth operation. This is the best access you will have to this belt for a while, unless you have a lift.
Here's a trick. While the water pump is off take your compressed air hose and shove the nozzle into the water pump coolant openings in the block and blow blow blow on both sides, You will get a mess on the ground, but you will get almost every drop of old antifreeze out of the engine. What is left won't matter. About as messy as flushes, but you get it all. except what might be in the heater core, which you can blow out as well. When you blow out the heater, that is an air trap and one of the places that sources air bubbles for a while until you burp the system a couple times.
Those wp ports are low point on the engine block and you get about 2 quarts each side.
Also, the radiator drain petcock is plastic and only takes a quarter turn to open.
While you have that stuff off, you can see the ac belt and idler and tensioner pulleys. Be sure to take that belt off, (I would change it and keep that one for a spare IN THE TRUNK) and check it, the idler, and tensioner for smooth operation. This is the best access you will have to this belt for a while, unless you have a lift.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Since you are replacing the T stat, go ahead and remove the water pump and replace the two gaskets at the flange points. GM gaskets are the best. You will find corrosion there and on the radiator hose nipples which are steel and will be corroded and need to be cleaned off.
Here's a trick. While the water pump is off take your compressed air hose and shove the nozzle into the water pump coolant openings in the block and blow blow blow on both sides, You will get a mess on the ground, but you will get almost every drop of old antifreeze out of the engine. What is left won't matter. About as messy as flushes, but you get it all. except what might be in the heater core, which you can blow out as well. When you blow out the heater, that is an air trap and one of the places that sources air bubbles for a while until you burp the system a couple times.
Those wp ports are low point on the engine block and you get about 2 quarts each side.
Also, the radiator drain petcock is plastic and only takes a quarter turn to open.
While you have that stuff off, you can see the ac belt and idler and tensioner pulleys. Be sure to take that belt off, (I would change it and keep that one for a spare IN THE TRUNK) and check it, the idler, and tensioner for smooth operation. This is the best access you will have to this belt for a while, unless you have a lift.
Here's a trick. While the water pump is off take your compressed air hose and shove the nozzle into the water pump coolant openings in the block and blow blow blow on both sides, You will get a mess on the ground, but you will get almost every drop of old antifreeze out of the engine. What is left won't matter. About as messy as flushes, but you get it all. except what might be in the heater core, which you can blow out as well. When you blow out the heater, that is an air trap and one of the places that sources air bubbles for a while until you burp the system a couple times.
Those wp ports are low point on the engine block and you get about 2 quarts each side.
Also, the radiator drain petcock is plastic and only takes a quarter turn to open.
While you have that stuff off, you can see the ac belt and idler and tensioner pulleys. Be sure to take that belt off, (I would change it and keep that one for a spare IN THE TRUNK) and check it, the idler, and tensioner for smooth operation. This is the best access you will have to this belt for a while, unless you have a lift.
i was actually thinking about hosing out the block when replacing the tstat.
I still have to blow out the condenser too.
#15
Safety Car
My brother used to work for maytag and gave me a awesome cordless iron (battery powered that recharges as it stands on charger)
I had a date and needed to iron my nice shirt, pulled it out to use, bought distilled water, it had this white crust come out on my nice black shirt, then it clogged up.
I called him in Texas and asked if he ever used it, he said yeah, I asked if he put tap water or distilled, he used tap water.
The iron was ruined as far as I could tell, and about ruined my nice shirt.
Imagine a engine heating up and recirculating water and coolant over and over, cooling down, heating up, day in day out.
I had a date and needed to iron my nice shirt, pulled it out to use, bought distilled water, it had this white crust come out on my nice black shirt, then it clogged up.
I called him in Texas and asked if he ever used it, he said yeah, I asked if he put tap water or distilled, he used tap water.
The iron was ruined as far as I could tell, and about ruined my nice shirt.
Imagine a engine heating up and recirculating water and coolant over and over, cooling down, heating up, day in day out.
probably wasn't the water, but the "MAYTAG" iron...
(sorry, never had any luck with Maytag appliances)