Electrical Gremlins - Part 2
#21
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I tried this again. The car sat for a month and the battery was too weak to crank it (which could be a part of the problem?) so I hooked up the charger and let it build back up. While that was going on, I removed the seat fuses but not the breaker. Once the car fired up, everything was working from the left door switches except the memory seat which was as expected. We again drove the car to a club meet and greet over an hour away. Everything was great until I parked the car and went in to eat. Upon returning, I unlocked the car doors, got in and fired it up. The passenger window rolled down by itself and the driver's door controls died. This includes the illumination for the switches.
Once I got it home, I pulled the codes. I was not able to get them with the car running for some reason. Most are related to the battery getting weak, but here they are:
40 BCM B0503 H
B0508 H
58 SDM B1001 H C
79 HVAC U1160 H
A0 LDCM B2202 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2204 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2206 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2208 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2282 H
B2286 H (clear and returns immediately)
A1 RDCM B2283 H
All will clear by resetting except for the ones indicated. Apparently removing power from the car, as with a dead battery, will reset everything and full functionality returns until the next restart with a fully charged battery.
Will removing the left power seat relay "fix" my issues until I can get the seat out and replace the memory module or whatever else might be wrong? BTW, I looked as best I could and saw no sign of frayed wires, loose connections, etc under the seat.
Once I got it home, I pulled the codes. I was not able to get them with the car running for some reason. Most are related to the battery getting weak, but here they are:
40 BCM B0503 H
B0508 H
58 SDM B1001 H C
79 HVAC U1160 H
A0 LDCM B2202 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2204 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2206 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2208 H (clear and returns immediately)
B2282 H
B2286 H (clear and returns immediately)
A1 RDCM B2283 H
All will clear by resetting except for the ones indicated. Apparently removing power from the car, as with a dead battery, will reset everything and full functionality returns until the next restart with a fully charged battery.
Will removing the left power seat relay "fix" my issues until I can get the seat out and replace the memory module or whatever else might be wrong? BTW, I looked as best I could and saw no sign of frayed wires, loose connections, etc under the seat.
Last edited by CaseyJones; 01-31-2016 at 08:45 PM.
#25
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I removed the circuit breaker for the driver's power seat. I have to take the car on a trip today so I'll see how it does.
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No change. With the seat totally depowered, unpowered, disconnected, whatever... The driver's door controls die after the next restart of the car. I can clear the codes in the evening, crank up and go in the morning, and the door controls die if I shut it off and restart. Curiously, before restarting, I can unlock the doors and could not do that previously. Then it dies and the passenger window rolls down. The CEL comes on at the same time, but that is related to the Vararam I installed that is causing lean codes.
#27
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Ive been monitoring this post more than Ive been replying. Been doing some THINKING.
Try this: Find the power fuses for the drivers door control module. Using a DC Voltmeter, monitor the IGNITION Powered fuse before, ignition ON, Ignition ON and after cranking the engine and during RUN
See if any of them ever go UNDER VOLTAGE at any time or even close to under voltage.
Bill
Try this: Find the power fuses for the drivers door control module. Using a DC Voltmeter, monitor the IGNITION Powered fuse before, ignition ON, Ignition ON and after cranking the engine and during RUN
See if any of them ever go UNDER VOLTAGE at any time or even close to under voltage.
Bill
The following users liked this post:
CaseyJones (02-21-2016)
#30
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Could an aging battery cause any of this? It seems to get weak from sitting in the garage too easily. I wouldn't think that sitting for three or four weeks would pull it down so much that the car won't crank. Click, click, click... Then I put the battery tender on it for a half hour or so and it works fine.
#31
Drifting
Try what Bill said and report back
#32
Le Mans Master
The starter needs amps to work and the electronics need high voltage to function. 3 weeks is a long time to go with the security drain and no trickle charger.
Mr. Sam
Mr. Sam
The following users liked this post:
CaseyJones (02-21-2016)
#33
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Ive been monitoring this post more than Ive been replying. Been doing some THINKING.
Try this: Find the power fuses for the drivers door control module. Using a DC Voltmeter, monitor the IGNITION Powered fuse before, ignition ON, Ignition ON and after cranking the engine and during RUN
See if any of them ever go UNDER VOLTAGE at any time or even close to under voltage.
Bill
Try this: Find the power fuses for the drivers door control module. Using a DC Voltmeter, monitor the IGNITION Powered fuse before, ignition ON, Ignition ON and after cranking the engine and during RUN
See if any of them ever go UNDER VOLTAGE at any time or even close to under voltage.
Bill
Last edited by CaseyJones; 02-03-2016 at 12:30 PM.
#34
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
One oddity, at least to me, is that the backlighting on the door switches always works when the door is opened. Otherwise, as when the problem arises, the lights are dead.
#35
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I drove the car a bunch over the weekend with no real change in the issues. Oddly enough, the problem seemed to come and go. By that, I mean that the passenger window would jerk occasionally down just a bit and then my wife would roll it back up only to have it jerk down again. It did that several times over the course of a few minutes before returning to normal operation.
Earlier today, I tried to check the voltage across the fuse(s) as requested by Bill. My meter is fine but I could not get voltage across the fuses. No reading. Then I decided to check the battery itself. It's only showing about 11.5 volts after sitting overnight. So I'm going to get a battery this afternoon and see where that goes. I've replaced all the fuses and the breaker I had removed previously. I even swapped the fuses for the left and right doors just in case. No change.
This is getting beyond frustrating. The car looks great and runs like it should but I'm slowly losing the joy of ownership that I should have for my Z06.
Earlier today, I tried to check the voltage across the fuse(s) as requested by Bill. My meter is fine but I could not get voltage across the fuses. No reading. Then I decided to check the battery itself. It's only showing about 11.5 volts after sitting overnight. So I'm going to get a battery this afternoon and see where that goes. I've replaced all the fuses and the breaker I had removed previously. I even swapped the fuses for the left and right doors just in case. No change.
This is getting beyond frustrating. The car looks great and runs like it should but I'm slowly losing the joy of ownership that I should have for my Z06.
Last edited by CaseyJones; 02-08-2016 at 03:49 PM.
#36
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Got a new Optima tonight. Everything was working on the way home but that is nothing new. Now to see if it keeps working. I'll check on it some more tomorrow and let you know.
#37
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I drove the car on multiple trips today and it did fine with the new battery until late tonight. The door failed on the last restart to come home. I checked the codes after I got here with the engine running. After usually getting a laundry list of codes I got a B1001 but I don't remember from which category it showed up and I can't find it anyway plus a B2286 under the LDCM which is the +5V reference fault. Any ideas what might be causing this? I think it's better with the new battery but still not quite there yet.
EDIT: The B1001 is Option Configuration Error. Whatever that means... Also, some charts show that the B2286 is a Mirror Position Sensor Circuit error.
I'm really confused now.
EDIT: The B1001 is Option Configuration Error. Whatever that means... Also, some charts show that the B2286 is a Mirror Position Sensor Circuit error.
I'm really confused now.
Last edited by CaseyJones; 02-10-2016 at 01:58 PM.
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm so close to figuring this out I can almost taste it. Any ideas about the LDCM error B2286 and what to check? That is one error that i can clear and make everything work until it happens again.
Last edited by CaseyJones; 02-10-2016 at 04:33 PM.
#39
The window behavior almost sounds like it needs to relearn it's stop position. Using the buttons raise the window all the way up and hold for like a count of five. See if that does anything.
#40
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The switches for the windows from the driver's door and the driver's side lock are dead when this happens. But thanks for thinking about it.