Titan22

Just installed a Tick master cylinder and haven't drive yet but looking for any adjustment recomendations. Right now the pedal sits about 3" behind my brake pedal and the travel is significantly shorter then factory. Any help is appreciated. Tick seams to say adjust it out till your satisfied but not too far, not very technical.

Thx

flash911

Following, and in the same boat.

jimmyLSX

Too little and you drag the clutch, too much and you can damage the throw out bearing, and pressure plate fingers, i learned the hard way trying to fix a 2nd to 3rd high rpm lockout and damaged a throw out bearing, pulled out my drivetrain a 2nd time around.
The main concesus is the height depends on your driving style and how long you drive. The rev test with the wheels in the air in first gear with a already warm car is best to determine pedal, then after banging gears see if the shifts are crisp at 6500rpm. I don't know how you set up, but heres where I explained it. Last post.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ggestions.html

Fwiw the tick master 7/8 maxes out the bore about a half inch before its equal with the brake pedal keep that in mind. Also mark the turn buckle halfs with diff color markers so you know exactly how much you're turning it. And only turn it in halfs each time.

73Corvette

Clutch adjustment done right

Originally Posted by jimmyLSX
It sounds like your transmission syncros are toast for 1st to 2nd. Best case scenario you probably have to much pedal. And the instructions tick provides are useless when properly setting up the pedal. The best starting point to set up the tick master cylinder is to reset the pedal all the way down like newly installed to the floor, have the car on jackstands in the air then turn on the car and try to put the transmission into 1st gear if it doesnt go in dont force it let off, move turnbuckle up to raise the pedal and then try again, keep raising it until it can go in gear smoothly while also making sure the rear wheels aren't spinning so have a second person to watch for you. Also once you find the spot where it feels fine, with the clutch pedal all the way down, with car in first gear rev to redline and check if the wheels spin. Now go off on your test drive and see if it shifts the way you like it, if not move the pedal up more. Though be very careful to much pedal and you'll break your throw out bearing, ask me how I know .
Make sure you use fresh dot 4 fluid, im using ate type 200 fluid in my reservoir and you can try putting some heat wrap on your mc to slave cylinder line, which I also did. Also make sure the slave cylinder line
Is Connected on the tab where it is held on the bell housing, if its dangling on the header no point of adjustment is going to help you if its boiling up.
Fwiw I have a monster stage 2 and my pedal is 2 inches below the brake pedal.

flash911

Thank you 73Corvette and Jimmylsx

aaronc7

The above guide is good. I don't think you have to rev all the way to redline... just rev it up some and make sure the tires don't spin. I lengthened the rod a little bit more beyond the point where the wheels stopped spinning (personal preference, didnt like how low the pedal was), but was very careful not to go too crazy with it and go so far that I might damage something.

I ended up swapping over to a 3/4" bore tilton master cylinder (same as stock diameter) after getting a twin disc clutch and not being happy with how small the engagement window was.

flash911

Yeah that's my issue Aaron. Twin disc with little engagement window. Plus, no matter where I move the pedal the actuation does not change and the pedal goes dead right afterward.

Thanks for chiming in!

aaronc7

Tilton 3/4: http://www.jegs.com/i/Tilton/454/75-...oductId=957635

Tilton 13/16: http://www.jegs.com/i/Tilton/454/75-...oductId=957635

Not super cheap, but you should be able to turn around and sell the 7/8" to someone looking to do a "DIY tick kit".

neutron82

so does the smaller bore allow you to slip the clutch more?... I have a twin as well with the larger bore tick and don't have any complaints, just curious and wondering if it's any different other than pedal pressure

aaronc7

Yes the engagement window is larger/allows you to slip the clutch more/more easily. I really wanted to go back to a stock MC, but where I was at, it was cheaper to just get a 3/4" tilton vs buying a GM OEM MC. If you had clutch disengagement issues and the Tick solved it by moving more fluid and thus extending the throwout bearing more-- then going back to a 3/4" bore is probably not wise. I believe the stroke is the same vs stock. The 13/16" "in between" size might be a good solution there.

7/8" Tick is still probably best for really quick shifts. I'm more into HPDE/road course now, so I'm not really trying to shift super fast by any means.

neutron82

well I had originally installed the tick trying to solve shifting issues with my stock clutch... at the time I don't know if they even offered the stock bore master and if they did I was unaware of it... the tick didn't solve the problems I had with the stock clutch and I ended up adding some power so I switched to a twin disc and left the tick since it was already there... I'm not sure if it would even be necessary with the clutch I have now but like I said I have no complaints and it shifts really fast which I like