mrr23

just picked up an EBTCM with pump to replace mine that has code 1225. just making sure there won't be any problems swapping.

mine in the car says MSVA. one i'm replacing says MSVA2

Bill Curlee

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Why would you replace the module when you have a C-1225???

1225 is a Left Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation. That is normally caused by a bad jumper harness, bad female pin / poor male to female pin contact and or a bad wheel speed sensor in the wheel hub.

Ive seen this 200 times and checking the contacts for bent/spread apart female pins is the very first step.

I wouldn't replace the module/pump until you check out the signal from the wheel speed sensor.

I have no idea if that one will replace yours or not.

Bill

mrr23

Sorry bill about the fat finger. I have 1255 internal malfunction. And I've tried everything I can.

zachaeous

I found this post that is dealing with interchangeability. Hope this helps out.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-modules.html

Bill Curlee

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ,,,,

That's DIFFERENT!

Have you actually MEASURED the voltage being supplied on each fuse to insure that its full battery voltage?

Checked for the ground to the module.

If the answer is YES,,, time to get a new module.

Bill

mrr23

Tested power and grounds. Hooked a scanner and can read everything the ebtcm outputs. What it does say is the switched power has zero volts. 12 volt power it shows at 13 volts running.

Back when i probed the wires, I think I showed power at the connector for the switched power.

mrr23

Yes it did. According to the interchange, my replacement is an older version.

Bill Curlee

WELL.................................... ..... You MUST have full battery voltage on the HOT AT ALL TIMES bus AND The HOT IN RUN& START BUSs ( which is the IGNITION SWITCH )

If it were me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I would change out the IGNITION SWITCH to see if that solves the issue..

BC

mrr23

i will go back and probe A, D, and E one more time to make sure there is power. like i said earlier, when i probed last time, i'm almost positive there was power at A (switched power)

Bill Curlee

PLEASE examine the FEMALE PINS and MAKE SURE that they are not SPREAD APART and not making proper contact with the male pins.

The correct way to test the female pins is by doing a PUSH PULL test with a spare male pin or something the same thickness as the male pin.

mrr23

Tested all wires, battery, and back of alternator. 13.5 volts across the board. Took a pick to bend the female pins some. No change. Cleared codes and 1255 immediately comes back. I may play with the pins some more when I get home.

Might plug the module in and ground it to see what happens

Bill Curlee

Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I took my module apart and was APALLED at the **** POOR solder job that DELPHI did on the power board.

It literally SUCKED! If all else fails, pop the guts out of the case and examine all the solder joints and see if you can find the one that FAILED.





If you decide to get into the module,,, ITS SILICONE RTV sealed into the case and difficult to press it out. It can be done but you have to do it carefully. Theres a special HOLE in the case that you can insert a screw and that pries the board out.

mrr23

i bought an entire unit including pump. i'll just swap the whole thing just in case the motor was causing too much voltage draw.

just plugged the replacement unit into the connector. only code i received after clearing them was C1242 because i did not plug the ground wire to the pump motor in. best thing is C1255 is gone!!. time to swap.

zachaeous

I am glad you got your problem fixed. Thanks for following up on your outcome.

mrr23

All better now. No light and abs functions work.

73Corvette

woohooooo way to go... by the way I called you the other day, got a question for you not C5 related
Glad you got your car fixed it is looking great too

mrr23

Pm me your number and ill call you