Help: Crank No-Start on New Motor
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Help: Crank No-Start on New Motor
Recently swapped for a new LS3 engine using the LS1 oil pan etc. It started and ran for a few trials until I did some recent touch up work. Now I have a crank/no-start scenario with no DTC's.
Touch up work: Dropped rear cradle two inches to move some wires then bolted back up. Started before, won't start after... maybe a coincidence?
Diagnostic and "fixes" done so far:
Installed new crank position sensor
Installed new NGK TR6 plugs
Sprayed starting fluid in TB
Fully charged battery
No start at all, the starter spins the motor very strong. I can hear the fuel pump buzz. Without the starting fluid method working I'm left with ignition? But I just don't understand what could be wrong all of a sudden.
Touch up work: Dropped rear cradle two inches to move some wires then bolted back up. Started before, won't start after... maybe a coincidence?
Diagnostic and "fixes" done so far:
Installed new crank position sensor
Installed new NGK TR6 plugs
Sprayed starting fluid in TB
Fully charged battery
No start at all, the starter spins the motor very strong. I can hear the fuel pump buzz. Without the starting fluid method working I'm left with ignition? But I just don't understand what could be wrong all of a sudden.
#2
1/4 mile/AutoX
Recently swapped for a new LS3 engine using the LS1 oil pan etc. It started and ran for a few trials until I did some recent touch up work. Now I have a crank/no-start scenario with no DTC's.
Touch up work: Dropped rear cradle two inches to move some wires then bolted back up. Started before, won't start after... maybe a coincidence?
Diagnostic and "fixes" done so far:
Installed new crank position sensor
Installed new NGK TR6 plugs
Sprayed starting fluid in TB
Fully charged battery
No start at all, the starter spins the motor very strong. I can hear the fuel pump buzz. Without the starting fluid method working I'm left with ignition? But I just don't understand what could be wrong all of a sudden.
Touch up work: Dropped rear cradle two inches to move some wires then bolted back up. Started before, won't start after... maybe a coincidence?
Diagnostic and "fixes" done so far:
Installed new crank position sensor
Installed new NGK TR6 plugs
Sprayed starting fluid in TB
Fully charged battery
No start at all, the starter spins the motor very strong. I can hear the fuel pump buzz. Without the starting fluid method working I'm left with ignition? But I just don't understand what could be wrong all of a sudden.
#3
1/4 mile/AutoX
bty starting fluid is a bad idea !!!
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
The wires I moved were the rear ABS wires... I installed them on the wrong side and as a result were not pulling the e-brake cable through the center of the wheel opening and were rubbing on the wheel. Simple fix.
When I reinstalled the new motor I put new heat shielding around everything... including both wiring and headers (heat wrapped the primaries).
Today I will systematically pull and check fuses. I don't have a volt meter but sounds like I should have one by now. I will also double check the grounds but when I moved the rear-end, the tunnel plate was still attached to limit the movement.
When I reinstalled the new motor I put new heat shielding around everything... including both wiring and headers (heat wrapped the primaries).
Today I will systematically pull and check fuses. I don't have a volt meter but sounds like I should have one by now. I will also double check the grounds but when I moved the rear-end, the tunnel plate was still attached to limit the movement.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
Resolved
The ground behind the head had come just a little bit loose. Tightened the bolt and wouldn't ya know... started right up.
With it brings the conclusion of my rebuild. Tuning this week.
With it brings the conclusion of my rebuild. Tuning this week.
#6
1/4 mile/AutoX
#7
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Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
YEP,,, It wont run without COIL GROUNDS.
BC
BC
#8
1/4 mile/AutoX